Raw Ti

[artec540]

I have a titanium Raw that is very nicely made, really bright for its size and seems to be pretty tough. It lives on my key chain and has survived being dropped several times.

In other words, in general, I like it but it has one characteristic that drives me mad. To change from its start-up light level to its bright level (there are only two), you have to turn the head a full turn and a half! It feels as if you're turning for ever. I assume that something inside is making contact with something else. Does anyone know if there is a washer or anything that one could put in to bring the bright up sooner?

 

[deusexaethera]

One of two things would have to happen:

1) The threads would have to be steeper, or;
2) The switch travel would have to be shorter.

It stands to reason if you turn it with both hands, it will take less time to crank it up to high mode.

Out of curiosity, which brightness levels did you order?

 

[Jarl]

My raw al goes from off to high in about half a turn.

 

[sappyg]

My raw al goes from off to high in about half a turn.

my RAW NS is about 1/2 a turn too. you might consider sending rob an e-mail about it if this is an issue for you. 1 1/2 turns seems a little much to me.

 

[JeffN]

The Lummi forum might be a better place to inquire.

 

[deusexaethera]

Maybe so, but being posted in here guarantees a wider audience, and that usually produces better answers faster.

I intend to buy a Raw in the near future, and it never would've occurred to me to check to see if anyone else had issues with how many turns it takes to activate high-mode. But now I know it should be about 1/2 a turn, so I'll be able to tell if mine is working right.

 

[SteveStephens]

A lot of variance in my RAWs to turn from just on low to high: RAW NS from 12 o'clock to 2. RAW Al- 12 to 7 RAW Ti (an older, coarse thread one)- 12 to 4 RAW Da- 12 to 1 as in 1/12th turn. I like that one. My RAW Al takes too much turning to high but, still, only a little over half a turn. These are my favorite and most used lights.

 

[MKLight]

my RAW NS is about 1/2 a turn too. you might consider sending rob an e-mail about it if this is an issue for you. 1 1/2 turns seems a little much to me.

+3 with 2 NSs and 1 Ti. You should contact Rob...

Good luck,
MK

 

[MKLight]

A lot of variance in my RAWs to turn from just on low to high: RAW NS from 12 o'clock to 2. RAW Al- 12 to 7 RAW Ti (an older, coarse thread one)- 12 to 4 RAW Da- 12 to 1 as in 1/12th turn. I like that one. My RAW Al takes too much turning to high but, still, only a little over half a turn. These are my favorite and most used lights.

There is a way to change this. I believe it is by altering either the height or angle of the "pogo stick" on the PCB...this is what helps switch it from low to high.

 

[deusexaethera]

There is a way to change this. I believe it is by altering either the height or angle of the "pogo stick" on the PCB...this is what helps switch it from low to high.

But how to do it?

 

[MKLight]

I haven't done it myself. I'm not sure who posted it, but they bent the "pogo stick" further outward. As the "pogo stick" fully depresses into the PCB board, the low mode switches to high. I assume if the "pogo stick" is shorter (it is cut or bent), this travel would be shorter, thus having less motion to turn on.

Good luck,
MK

 

[JohnF]

Not that it'll make you feel better, but my new RawTi also takes exactly 1 1/2 turns from low to high. I'll email Rob to see if anything can be done short of sending it back across the pond...

John F
LV, NV

 

[olrac]

I haven't done it myself. I'm not sure who posted it, but they bent the "pogo stick" further outward. As the "pogo stick" fully depresses into the PCB board, the low mode switches to high. I assume if the "pogo stick" is shorter (it is cut or bent), this travel would be shorter, thus having less motion to turn on.

Good luck,
MK

Actually I think the Pogo would have to be longer to reduced the number of turns to high, if it is shortened it will take more turns to engage the pogo switch.

 

[MKLight]

Hmmm...I don't know. I thought when the pogo was slightly depressed, low was engaged and when fully depressed, high was engaged. I could definitely be wrong...very interesting...

 

[olrac]

I took a Raw apart and tried it and the more I think about it I don't think it is a matter of how long or short the pogo sticks out, it is about the internal travel between low and high of the pogo switch itself. I don't think there is anyway to modify these tiny switches. The best bet would be to replace it with a shorter throw pogo switch. BTW are these really called pogos?

PS: If you shorten the pogo too much it might not engage high mode.

 

[sideman7]

I could be wrong, but I think the issue at hand is the fact that newer Raw Ti's have incorporated much finer threads... It's not inconceivable that what used to take half a turn would take a turn and a half on these...

 

[olrac]

I could be wrong, but I think the issue at hand is the fact that newer Raw Ti's have incorporated much finer threads... It's not inconceivable that what used to take half a turn would take a turn and a half on these...

That makes complete sense!:thumbsup:

 

[MKLight]

I took a Raw apart and tried it and the more I think about it I don't think it is a matter of how long or short the pogo sticks out, it is about the internal travel between low and high of the pogo switch itself. I don't think there is anyway to modify these tiny switches. The best bet would be to replace it with a shorter throw pogo switch. BTW are these really called pogos?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sideman7
I could be wrong, but I think the issue at hand is the fact that newer Raw Ti's have incorporated much finer threads... It's not inconceivable that what used to take half a turn would take a turn and a half on these...


That makes complete sense!:thumbsup:

I'm not sure if they're called Pogo Sticks. IIRC the Enrique of the original CR2 Ion called his a pogo stick. Since it looks similar, I gave it the same name. The two main differences between the Raw and Ion are that the Raw's is on the outer edge and is angled away from PCB. The Ion was in the center of the PCB and is straight (perpendicular to the board). The Ion worked in low from pogo compressed a shade and went to high when it was fully compressed. This is where I came up with the idea that it was similar to the Raw.

Everything you (Olrac) and sideman7 makes sense, too. Maybe Rob can chime in? I might be confused! :shrug:

This is interesting...

 

[artec540]

One of two things would have to happen:

1) The threads would have to be steeper, or;
2) The switch travel would have to be shorter.

It stands to reason if you turn it with both hands, it will take less time to crank it up to high mode.

Out of curiosity, which brightness levels did you order?

I honestly don't remember but, knowing my normal habits, I'm sure that the "high" would have been the highest available, and the "low" would probably have been about 50%, if there is one. Sorry not to be able to give you better detail.

I agree that using two hands takes less time than trying to use one. But I don't want to use two hands, and even using two hands takes too damned long....... not in time but in twiddles. Very irritating!

Thanks to all the interested and interesting answers. I'm going to follow several people's advice and send an e-mail to Rob (I don't know him so I'd be more comfortable with a bit more formality but if all I've got is "Rob", that's what I'll have to use!)

 

[JohnF]

I received the following from Rob about 'high' taking 1 1/2 turns past 'low':
---------
Hello John,

This is because the low contact pin is a little to long.
The best option would be to return to me for adjustment.
However if you could file the pin a little shorter you could possibly take care of this yourself.
I hope this helps.
Kind Regards

---------

I don't know where the 'low contact pin' is, or how to get to it - can anyone expound on his suggestion before I bother Rob again - or should I just send it back to him for adjustment?

John F