Anyone here have a fairly bright Sure Fire with which you have used rechargeable Lithiums with good success?? Just checking. If I do decide to try this approach I will want to do it with a Sure Fire light instead of getting the SureFire rechargeable light.
Rechargeable 123 Li batteries in Sure Fire??
- Thread starter MTHall51
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KeyGrip
Flashlight Enthusiast
You have some options if you want a rechargable SureFire. You can do what I did, and power a P91 (9v lamp assembly) with two 3.7v 17670s, or you can check out the lamp assemblies from Lumens Factory. The LF products fit in any incandescent SureFire that takes primaries, and allows you to use rechargable cells. Hope this helps.
Edit: What SureFire did you have in mind?
Edit: What SureFire did you have in mind?
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for RCR123, you can use a 2 cell SF body + P90
when used with P91, the bulb is over driven (more so that P90 with 2 x li ion, so the P91 bulb life will probably be reduced) and you are discharging at a high rate for the li ion cells which is bad for the li ion cell
P90 draw less than half the current of P91
check this thread out: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=114094
when used with P91, the bulb is over driven (more so that P90 with 2 x li ion, so the P91 bulb life will probably be reduced) and you are discharging at a high rate for the li ion cells which is bad for the li ion cell
P90 draw less than half the current of P91
check this thread out: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=114094
lebox97
Enlightened
3v CR123A cells will sag to 2.25-2.5V under load
so a SF LA designed for 3 CR123A does not designed to handle exactly 9V
li ion rechargeable doesn't have the same characteristic as CR123A, it won't sag as much underload
and CR123A doesn't sag as much initially when under lighter load, so P90 (draw about half the current as P9 does) is designed to handle higher voltage
this is a helpful thread to read: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=161536
so a SF LA designed for 3 CR123A does not designed to handle exactly 9V
li ion rechargeable doesn't have the same characteristic as CR123A, it won't sag as much underload
and CR123A doesn't sag as much initially when under lighter load, so P90 (draw about half the current as P9 does) is designed to handle higher voltage
this is a helpful thread to read: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=161536
mdocod
Flashaholic
there are tons of great options for using lithium-ions in surefire lights. But if you haven't bought your light yet, I highly recommend "building" a SF light up with a leefbody so you can use 18mm diameter li-ion cells, this will give you about 50% more runtime and slightly better brightness.
A leef 2x18500 or 2x18650 body is a great platform to start your builds on. I guess they are in limited supply so you might have to wait a bit to get one. But they are sold at lighthound.com .... also keep an eye over in BST. A C tail C head body, combined with an appropriate SF bezel and tailcap will allow you to run "D26" style lamps from many manufactures, including SFs own amazing wall-of light P91, or more conservative P90. LumensFactory is offering some great in-between options, A P90 falls in at about 1.2A, P91 about 2.6A, LF has offerings at 0.8A, 1.2A, 1.5A, 2.0A, so you can really fine tune a balance between runtime and output to meet the need.
I don't generally suggest a 2xCR123 size light in incandescent anymore unless you just really favor the incandescent output, cree LEDs in this form factor are blowing away incandescents in output and runtime.
You can simply use 17mm cells in a SF body, which simplifies things as far as putting the light together goes. Click on the link in my sig line (same link stockae92 just replied with) and scroll down to the compatability chart to see what can be done... Please read through the guide, understand the risks vs benefits. Buy quality protected cells and quality charger only. Seriously consider spending the bucks on a Pila IBC charger, it will eliminate 95% of the headaches involved with properly using li-ion cells.
A leef 2x18500 or 2x18650 body is a great platform to start your builds on. I guess they are in limited supply so you might have to wait a bit to get one. But they are sold at lighthound.com .... also keep an eye over in BST. A C tail C head body, combined with an appropriate SF bezel and tailcap will allow you to run "D26" style lamps from many manufactures, including SFs own amazing wall-of light P91, or more conservative P90. LumensFactory is offering some great in-between options, A P90 falls in at about 1.2A, P91 about 2.6A, LF has offerings at 0.8A, 1.2A, 1.5A, 2.0A, so you can really fine tune a balance between runtime and output to meet the need.
I don't generally suggest a 2xCR123 size light in incandescent anymore unless you just really favor the incandescent output, cree LEDs in this form factor are blowing away incandescents in output and runtime.
You can simply use 17mm cells in a SF body, which simplifies things as far as putting the light together goes. Click on the link in my sig line (same link stockae92 just replied with) and scroll down to the compatability chart to see what can be done... Please read through the guide, understand the risks vs benefits. Buy quality protected cells and quality charger only. Seriously consider spending the bucks on a Pila IBC charger, it will eliminate 95% of the headaches involved with properly using li-ion cells.
Stormstaff
Newly Enlightened
Hmmm, this sounds interesting. Nice suggestions. I may need to look into this myself
DM51
Flashaholic
I really recommend mdocod's guide - required reading for anyone who isn't quite sure about what is available, what works and what doesn't.
Do not try to run very powerful LAs like SF's P91 or the LF EO-9 with cells that aren't up to the job. All that will happen is you will wreck the cells quite quickly by discharging them at too fast a rate, and the lamp won't look its best either, as it won't be getting anough juice.
The P91 really needs 2x18650. Running it on 2x17670 or 2x18500 is pushing those cells quite hard, and you should certainly not try it on anything smaller.
Do not try to run very powerful LAs like SF's P91 or the LF EO-9 with cells that aren't up to the job. All that will happen is you will wreck the cells quite quickly by discharging them at too fast a rate, and the lamp won't look its best either, as it won't be getting anough juice.
The P91 really needs 2x18650. Running it on 2x17670 or 2x18500 is pushing those cells quite hard, and you should certainly not try it on anything smaller.
Dr.Glock27
Newly Enlightened
Cant I use Tenergy RCR123 3V L-Ion on my G2 with standard P60 lamp?
DM51
Flashaholic
3V R123s are usually ~3.2V off the charger, and they stay high at 3V because they are really just 3.7V cells regulated down. You therefore don't see the usual voltage sag with them - two of them will stay at 6V under load.
CR123A primaries, on the other hand, sag straight away under load, to ~5V (depending on the load). The P60 and other 6V lamps are designed with this sag in mind, so their designed running voltage will be nearer 5V than 6V.
You can see from this that with 2x 3V R123s, a 6V lamp is being overdriven. It may not instaflash straight away, but its life will be shortened.
jumpstat
Flashlight Enthusiast
I've lego'd a SF Z46 bezel w/MN11 bulb + Leef C/M 2x18650 + SF SW01 Tailcap fed with AW's Protected 18650. Its bright and runtime around 45min is good enough for my needs.
You could outsource all the above except the Leef body which is sold by Lighthound and is out of stock at the moment.
There are many other combinations available and mdocod's guide is the best place for you to start....
All the best.
You could outsource all the above except the Leef body which is sold by Lighthound and is out of stock at the moment.
There are many other combinations available and mdocod's guide is the best place for you to start....
All the best.
How is the color match of the Z46 and the Leef C/M HAIII? I've been interested in putting together a similar setup - I'd love to see pics!
