Red LED for rescue boat

Steve Andrews

Enlightened
Joined
Aug 30, 2002
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222
Location
Jersey, UK
We are currently looking for a light to be used when performing tasks on our rescue boat at night, but still preserving our night vision. It is a 16ft Avon Inflatable Inshore Rescue Boat and the light would have to be submersible.
I am already interested in the UKE 2AAA Mini Pocket Light with the optional red LED. Is this a good choice?
You help is appreciated..........
 
Hi Steve,
There is some discussion on what the best color is to retain night-vision. Some people go for the red version, because it is the least perceptable, and others argue that, since human eyes are most perceptive in the green range, you should use a light with a frequency that is most perceptible, ergo, a green (cyan) colored light.
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Personally, I would go for the light-source that requires the least amount of energy and thus beeing the most effective, the cyan ...
YMMV (so may mine...
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I'm just speculating.)
 
The following is what I gleaned and may not be entirely correct.

The way to retain night vision is to ensure that the pupils don't contract, and the light-receiving cells on the retina are not exhausted from exposure to increased levels of light.

There are 4 types of cells on the retina, 3 of which respond to the colours red, green and blue. The fourth responds to the light level (brightness or darkness). I believe this particular cell is shaped like a rod.

While light levels are very low, vision is perceived in black and white. All the light-receptive cells work in unison to deliver signals to the brain, the rod cell being the most responsive at this level. But as light levels increase, the individual cells begin to deliver signals specific to their colour receptivity. When the cells deliver signals for higher levels of light, it takes a while before they recover and are capable of delivering signals at lower levels of light.

Hence to retain night vision, the lighting level must be kept low in general and the light should be of 1 pure colour. This is so that the only cells in the eye that would be activated at the higher levels would be the ones that respond to that particular colour. All the other cells would still be receptive of lower levels of light.

Also, since the eye is more reponsive to green, it is argued that there are more cells in the eye capable of detecting green, though it is highly possible that the cells that respond to green are just capable of delivering a stronger signal. So some people use a light that will not affect the green receivers, which is red. Others suggest that since the green cells respond the strongest, you should use a dim green light instead, since very little light is needed for a response, thus not just saving the other colour receiving cells but also the rods.

Personal experience, and seeing all the military night-vision devices using green suggests that a dim green might be better. But not bright cyan.
 
Hey Steelwolf,
That's what I was trying to say. Not a bright cyan light, but just enough to get by... I'm sure we're on the same wavelength
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here.
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The red or blue/green (cyan) CMG Infinity seems like a good choice for this. I know that astronomy buffs usually recommend red over cyan, but I don't know how scientific this is. The red infinity looks dimmer, especially when your eyes are not yet adjusted to the dark. As your eyes become adjusted, the red light becomes more and more effective. Both these lights are quite dim in an outdoor setting, which may or may not be a good thing, depending on what you want. For astronomy, it's perfect.
 
1.) The CMG isn't exactly waterproof.
2.) I agree with the red color HOWEVER
3.) I find it hard to believe that a rescue team's night vision will not be destroyed by other light sources at a rescue scene (i.e. strobes, searchlights, flood lights, navigation lights, etc.)
 
In terms of efficiency, the red 1W HD seems to blast out light compared to all the other LED's Perhaps an underdriven red will give you the photons you need for the least amount of power. I think the beam intensity has a lot to do with the retention of night vision. Abright hot spot reflecting off an object close at hand is a problem. I would suggest a beam shaper for what ever light you choose. The shaper can always be removed if you need more throw. I have been a proponent for the Nichia white LED's used sparingly to effect an artificial, full moon, level of illumination. As stated above, the key is to provide just enough light (without hot spots) to accomplish the task.

An eternalight on dim might be just the ticket and they are waterproof. It seems to me that you will need a range of light source as you may need to punch out some distance at times but start low.

- Don
 
Originally posted by McGizmo:
I have been a proponent for the Nichia white LED's used sparingly to effect an artificial, full moon, level of illumination. As stated above, the key is to provide just enough light (without hot spots) to accomplish the task.- Don
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Those are my observations as well, I often walk my dog in a nature reserve, where there is no (or very little) light pollution. This is also an area where the military is holding night time exercices, so once in a while, we run in to each other.
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Usually I just go by natural light, and ,once accustomed, this works fine 90 % of the time. The only reasons for me to have more light, were the kind that I had to point out a location on a map, something great with a white led...

btw, The amount of light provided by a LI (Lambda Illuminator) is simply stunning once adapted to low light levels...
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I think it is rare for our eyes ever to become fully night adjusted. This would especially be true on a resuce boat that most likely has running lights and illuminated guages. When full night adjusted we see in shades of grey. Think back on most situations where you thought your eyes were in "night mode" and you'll realize that you were still seing colors. Astronomers and backpackers are among the few that are in the dark long enough to fully adjust.

So, the goal really becomes avoiding unnecessary desensitization to light by using it sparingly. Probably nothing wrong with diffuse white light, but to play it safe I'd probably go with red or green. I just wouldn't assume that since it's red or green that you don't have to worry about the brightness.
 
I would suggest an "Eternalight 3M GW Ergomarine"

ErgoMarine1_400.jpg

Picture shows standard version, the "GW" unit has two white and two green LED's

</font><ul type="square">[*]<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Fully Waterproof</font>[*]<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Floats</font>[*]<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Flat Body (won't roll around on boat in rough conditions)</font>[*]<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Can select between white or green LED's</font>[/list]<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Here's the manufacturers blurb:
When an eternaLight with a GW option is first turned on, only the green lamp set turns on, this is to preserve night vision. You may select which lamp set you would like to use by simply pressing a button. All other modes function the same except they use the lamp set you selected. However, the dazzle mode will continue to use all lamps regardless of the lamp set you select. Battery life and pricing are the same, the GW option is a special order option.

Technology Associates Website
 
Steve, as a volunteer rescue diver I can say the only light I would take diving is the UKE 2AAA with the red LED. It is bright enough to dig around your gear with, but doesn't mess your night vision, unless you look directly at the LED.

I can't think of another light that is dive rated.

We do carry Eternal Marines in the small boats, they are safely waterproof to 10 feet, and since they float they work good for that application.
 
I would also consider the EternaLight with a Green/White or Red/White option (I personally like the Green/White!), that way you also have the versatility of white if needed...not to mention extremely long runtimes with lithium batteries as well as the ability to float, and great signal capability!! It's a lot of flashlight for the money!
 
Just a side note: the military now uses green light for low light situations because night vision equipment is least sensitive to green. Gen 3 stuff is really sensitive to red (and IR), so using red bright enough to see with causes the night vision equipment to automatically reduce it's gain, greatly reducing or eliminating it's effectiveness. The army and air force spent a fortune retrofitting cockpits of aircraft with green lighted instruments, so that pilots could fly with night vision goggles.

It takes a while for good night vision to kick in, several minutes actually, and almost any light will degrade that. An example is that you can see to work by a color safelight, while by normal room light you can't detect that the color safelight is on, even if staring directly into it.
(Too much time spent in a darkroom as a kid...)

So - if anybody is going to use night vision stuff w/ your rescues, use green, otherwise I'd use red. I've heard that red or green doesn't matter too much, as most people turn the lights up too bright anyway.
 
I can't speak for some of the other lights mentioned by the members, but I do think the UK 2AAA with "red head" is a good idea. The light is small, inexpensive, has good light duty clip, and uses regular batteries. I have one and like it for close up work in the dark. The throw is only ok IMHO but it will not bother your team mates either.
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Can someone please put a link to a description and/or purchase site for the UKEAAA I see mentioned here. I cannot find it anywhere. I found a review on Brock's site (nice site, by the way!), but it was under regular flashlights, not LEDs. I'm confused!
 
Thanks for the link. It was still pretty difficult to find. Doing a search on Brightguy for "uke" yields no hits (I'd already tried this before making my previous link request). I realize that this is a newbie problem with abbreviations. Perhaps a glossary could be made available on this site somewhere, to help alleviate this type of newbie confusion? Just a thought, and very off-topic - sorry! 🙂
 
Well I tried, the link I originally copied took me to the UK 2AAAs...now it takes me to a page full of lights??? I tried to fix it, but it does the same thing???

Well it gets you to Brightguy.com, just search for "UK 2AAA" not "UKE".

If I'm not mistaken, it's merely an incandescent torch, but you can purchase as an option the red LED bulb/assembly.
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That's why I would go with the EternaLight!! So much more flexibility! You can't be bothered with changing bulbs and the like while in a raft, eh? The EternaLight allows you to select which color you want (or both at the same time), as well as brightness level. Dimmed all the way down to minimum with 2 red LEDs lit it has a hours of life expectancy of 2500 hours!!! With 2 whites lit (again dimmed to minimum) 5000 hours! These numbers are in my manual that came with the light. Hours of life expectancy with the green LEDs are similiar.

Of course at 100% of brightness level with 2 reds the expectancy is 50 hours, 2 whites 100 hours. Now beat that! But it's not a "dive light", statement of water tighness and testing is on the website as well as applicable manuals.

EternaLight Specifications & Options
 
Thanks for your help guys. I'm also considering a 180 Extreme Krill lamp in green. Do you have experience of these lights?
Any light we choose would have to be extremely robust. Are Krill lamps tough?
Everything in our boats takes a battering as we often travel at speed through large swells and rough sea. Not good for your back!!
In the UK krills are made by Traser but I believe it may be a different company in the USA.
 
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