Reed switch suitability

[The Magpie]

I'm building a 7 xp-g dive light driven by a taskled hyperboost running off 8 18650 batteries (4S2P).

Would this reed switch work with this setup: http://www.rapidonline.com/sku/Elec...roximity-Magnetic/Reed-switches/30247/60-0532?

The data sheet says its ok for a current of 5amps and I'll only be putting around 2 through it.

I see mention of mosfets in relation to reed switches, can someone explain what they are, I'm very much an electronics novice. Can I do without one?

 

[Packhorse]

Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor.

In other words its a fancy transistor. The bennifit of using a MOSFET is that virtualy no current goes through the reed switch.
Yes you can use a 5 amp rated reed for a 2 amp load. But you may find using a MOSFET more reliable as I have heard stories of reed switches sticking due to high current arcing the terminals.

 

[Codiak]

But you may find using a MOSFET more reliable as I have heard stories of reed switches sticking due to high current arcing the terminals.

Mine welded

Never had an issue with reeds rated 2x above expected draw.

 

[The Magpie]

I see thanks chaps. I think I'll go without the mosfet this time to keep it nice and simple.

If is does stick at any point it'll be easy and cheap enough to replace, and if it does it during a dive at least it'll be stuck on not off!

Thanks for the info.

 

[350xfire]

Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor.

In other words its a fancy transistor. The bennifit of using a MOSFET is that virtualy no current goes through the reed switch.
Yes you can use a 5 amp rated reed for a 2 amp load. But you may find using a MOSFET more reliable as I have heard stories of reed switches sticking due to high current arcing the terminals.

Pack:
I was wondering, how would you implement a reed in my can design? I have been thinking about going that route, but have no knowledge of reeds.

 

[Packhorse]

There are a few different ways.
But the way I do it is in this thread.
You can add as many reeds as you wish to make it a multi step switch.

I will try and post more pics showing how a grub screw and ball bearing are added to the rotating collar to achieve stops at the on and off positions.
You should be able to get the groove CNC'd in your lid easy enough. Then use PVC for the collar since it can be glued.

A would also suggest adding a second o ring below the main one. This would necessitate the lid being a few mm deeper.