Replacement for Predator Pro?

benhar

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Jun 12, 2009
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Yeah, I definitely hope I can get a resolution on the 2.5! Aside from the flickering I love that thing.

Tip: When dealing with ArmyTek, don't end your email with "Thank you for your help troubleshooting". They ignore the rest of the email and assume everything is working. Unfortunately I'm also now being asked to perform the same troubleshooting steps I already told them I performed. I remember now why I gave up the first time!

Unfortunately, regardless of the outcome of the 2.5, I've been lurking here long enough to now understand that I need a sc600w MK IV when it comes out. :eek:oo:
 

CelticCross74

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Aug 30, 2014
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2.5 Pro indeed is sheer XPG2 goodness indeed but my copy at least has a UI that is a PIA to actually use at all aside from max output. The V 3's have a far more streamlined UI. That being said I am seeing this thread and I am still down for the Acebeam L16 as one of the lights that truly one ups Armyt in XHP35 output as well as actual candela. Recently ALSO got the AMAZING new Eagtac SX30 XHP35 HI and it is NUTS!! Just as good as the L16! If you find the L16's UI to much to deal with the new Eagtac has what is actually a pretty good dual button UI set up on the head that is MUCH easier to find in the dark as well as I got the full KIT SX30 with extra battery tube and have it loaded up 2x3500mah GA and it ROCKS! The output mode level spacing between the Acebeam and the Eagtac are VERY different. The L16 I believe starts at a higher output point for lowest setting through to max than the Eagtac. Still BOTH these lights are the size of an SRT7 if that and putting 1400+ lumens out the front for no less than 75k CD?? Both are amazing..
 

Swedpat

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Jan 5, 2008
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Boden, Sweden
Yeah, I definitely hope I can get a resolution on the 2.5! Aside from the flickering I love that thing.

Tip: When dealing with ArmyTek, don't end your email with "Thank you for your help troubleshooting". They ignore the rest of the email and assume everything is working. Unfortunately I'm also now being asked to perform the same troubleshooting steps I already told them I performed. I remember now why I gave up the first time!

Unfortunately, regardless of the outcome of the 2.5, I've been lurking here long enough to now understand that I need a sc600w MK IV when it comes out. :eek:oo:

Zebralight is one of my favorite brand. But they have no throwers, and definitely nothing close to an Armytek Predator. I wish you good luck with the Predator or what else you might choose instead of it. Personally I soon will have another Predator XB-H, but a Pro version so I have both. Of course having both Armytek and Zebralight is even better! :)
 

twistedraven

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Oct 22, 2014
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an L2vn will give you all of the requirements on your list except the neutral to warm tint, and it won't give you quick access to firefly WITH mode memory, but you can program it to always start on firefly. Oh, and you won't get a cigar grip either.

An L16 will be a good choice too, but it won't be nearly the focused hotspot of the L2vn.
 
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Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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Jun 8, 2008
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I had a Viking which flickered. Turns out it was the tail cap as have a Predator and it didn't once the tail was swapped out. Maybe that's the issue.
 

benhar

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Jun 12, 2009
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116
Question!! So I'm trying to use a different battery as part of the troubleshooting, and since I started seeing the issue around 3.69V, I've been running the light today to get it down to that point. It's been taking a while, because I've had it on a medium-medium high level. Last I had checked it, it was around 4V, so I put the battery back in and turned it back on. When I came back 10-15 minutes later, the flashlight was HOT, as in the light almost hurt in my hand. I took the battery back out (and had a nice pop from the expanded air inside the light), and while the battery itself wasn't very hot, the voltage was 3.49, MUCH quicker of a drop than I had been seeing, not to mention the light had been cool all day. Should I be worried?
 

benhar

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Jun 12, 2009
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Well I'm slightly less concerned than I was, I think it may have accidentally been turned to high. Still, is the heat normal?
 

zs&tas

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Jan 5, 2009
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Sounds like it was on a high mode, heat is normal, I ran a light yesterday because I was bored , 26650 battery for 22mins , could barely touch the light, went from 4.2 to 3.6 volts ;)
 

benhar

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Jun 12, 2009
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116
Well I finally got the tail cap disassembled, and found there wasn't really much I could do. However, I cleaned all the threads and surfaces, conditioned them, and NyoGel'd the heck out of it before putting it back in. Then did a lot of clicking. It may just be luring me into a false sense of security, but it seems to be working much better now. Not sure if it's 100%, but seems pretty close! Going to hope it continues to work, as I'd rather hang on to this v2.5 than end up with a v3 as a replacement.
 

zs&tas

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Jan 5, 2009
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UK
Can they not send a tail cap , did they even change tails between v2.5 and v3
If not could still buy a switch and solder it in yourself , would be worth the effort if its the only way.
 

benhar

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Joined
Jun 12, 2009
Messages
116
Yeah on the outside it's very different. I've asked if they have any 2.5 tail caps left, or if the switch & spring from the 3 will fit in the 2.5.
 

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