replacing turn signal, parking lamps, and brake lamp bulbs

Alaric Darconville

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The "C" model says that it's electronic (on the packaging), while the non-"C" says it's "electromechanical".

The electromechanical ones may be based on a bimetallic strip heating and so making/breaking the contacts, the electronic ones may use some sort of electronic timer.

Just a WAG.
 

-Virgil-

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They are one and the same. Neither is thermal/bimetallic. Zoom in on the RockAuto picture and take a look at the word printed on the flasher.

"C" is for "Carded" (packaging).
 

Alaric Darconville

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Much like 65C10 stands for a CMOS 6510... wait, not at all like that.

Crazy. Could easily have been a EL-13BP (Blister Pack). Or EL-13IASCB (In A Small Cardboard Box).

I didn't really zoom in on the picture, though.
 

tay

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1295NA bulbs and the Tridon EL13 both arrived in the mail. Hopefully I will get a chance to try to install them this weekend.
 

tay

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Removed the old flasher and installed the Tridon.

Without even putting the signals on, it blew the 7.5A fuse.

I replaced it with a 10A fuse, and it blew that fuse immediately as well.

Any ideas on why it's blowing fuses? It can only go in the socket one way, and going back to the factory flasher the lights work fine.
 

-Virgil-

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Interesting! Wonder if the pinout is different on new vs. old flashers. Check the terminal designations and see; you may need to make up some adaptor pigtails to correct the polarity.
 

tay

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The old flasher is a NILES IF302

3 pins, in a shape like this

| _ |

Top left corner is marked "E". Top right corner is marked "B"
Bottom left corner is marked "10". Bottom right corner is marked "L"


The new flasher is a TRIDON EL13

3 pins, in the same shape. When oriented the same as the OEM flasher, it is marked as follows

The middle horizontal pin is marked "P"
The left pin is marked "L"
The right pin is marked "X"
 

tay

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Did a simple photometric test of these new bulbs in my basement.

I found that my ebay 1156 amber bulbs measured in at about 440 lux.
I had a pair of sylvania 1156 amber bulbs that came in around 650 lux.
My new 1295 amber bulbs came in at 925 lux.

Setup was the front turn signal housing on my work bench, 12.0v PC power supply, and my cheap photometer about 10" away from the housing, roughly on the same level, pointing directly at the bulb. I had the photosensor zip-tied to something, and I did my best not to move the turn signal housing, so hopefully I have kept consistency.

I was impressed with the brightness increase with 1295 bulbs, but I was shocked at how much brighter the name-brand 1156s were than the ebay 1156s.
 

-Virgil-

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I think you will want to hook it up so that old "B" maps to new "P", old "L" maps to new "L", and old "E" maps to new "X".

You may want to do some checking with a test light or voltmeter. Find the socket slot that has constant line voltage with the ignition on; that's probably "B" (old) and "P" (new). If I'm not mistaken, "B" is for Battery/"P" is for Power, "L" is for load, and I'm fairly sure "X" is arbitrary designation for the dashboard pilot.
 

tay

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Ok, I'll try that next time I'm home. It looks like they're just quarter inch spades, so I'll just fab up some short male to female spade connection wires, and try it out.
 

Diesel_Bomber

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IIRC, according to FMVSS108, front turn signals and parking lights may be white OR amber. If white is fine by you, then just get the bright white bulbs.
 

-Virgil-

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IIRC, according to FMVSS108, front turn signals and parking lights may be white OR amber.

No. Front turn signals MUST be amber. White is not permitted.

Parking lamps may be white or amber.

Front sidemarker lights and reflectors are required, and both [/i]must[/i] be amber. White is not allowed.
 

tay

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Once all is said and done, I should have white HID headlights, white parking lights, white cornering lamps, amber front sidemarkers, and amber front turn signals.

The only thing I'm iffy on is the front retroreflectors. I have sidemarkers, but they're amber bulbs in a clear housing, and they're not that very reflective.
 

-Virgil-

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The sidemarker reflector is a very effective device for reducing the likelihood of your getting sideswiped while parked at night. They're easy to add back if the original has been removed (as in your case) with peel-and-stick sheet-type reflectors.
 

tay

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Yeah, I was probably just going to go to autozone and get some small reflective stickers and place them on there.

I also had a pretty cool idea. My Maxima came with these atrocious H3 reflectors. Their sole purpose seems to be to create glare (a ridiculous amount of light is scattered upwards above the hotspot that they have more glare than the headlights). They've been removed.

What I plan to do is replace my parking lamps with smaller units, and behind the parking lamps, put mini H3 foglight projectors with a very sharp cutoff. I was then going to aim the fog projectors carefully so that their cutoff is lined up with the cutoff of my low-beam projectors, and try to angle them so that they blend well into the low-beam.

I figure it will be good to flick them on when I'm driving around twisty 25mph roads, because I always find that I need more lighting to the sides than my current 9004 halogen setup can offer.
 

Diesel_Bomber

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Thanks Scheinwerfermann. I've driven many pickups with white front turn signals. Never had a problem, but won't do that again, either.
 

tay

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Finally got a chance to look at it today.

There are 3 pins on stock, like this

| _ |

Left pin is a green wire, "B"
Middle pin is a green wire, "L"
Right pin is a black wire, "X"

When the blinker was on with the module removed (and maybe off, too, I don't remember), there was 0v on L and +12v on B, in reference to X (the black wire)
When the stock module was inserted, the voltage on L and the voltage on B oscillated between 0v and +12v, in reference to X. Not sure on the timing, except that it seemed to be in line for a normal flash frequency, and it was faster than the response time of my really cheap multimeter. I also forgot to take the voltage differential between L and B. They both oscillated, but I couldn't tell whether it was in phase or out of phase.

I connected Tridon L to stock L, tridon P to stock B, and tridon E to stock X. It did not light up. Assuming L = L, I then tried tridon P to stock X, and tridon E to stock P, which blew the fuse. Hopefully I get it right next time, because I'm running out of spare fuses (I blew the carphone and the heated seats fuses already by swapping them into the turn signal)

Hopefully this was enough info to give me some guidance. It was rainy and getting dark. I've had the trim panel under my dashboard off of the car for two months now, and the turn signal module dangling and hitting against my foot (probably not safe - I had to wiggle my foot a bit to get it against the top of my foot, and to the right side, so that it wouldn't get stuck between my foot and one of the pedals). I got tired of dealing with the stupid module hanging, and I am travelling this weekend, so I zip-tied it up and put the trim back on.

Honestly, the stock bulbs aren't terrible in the "smoke" housings. They're not very dark, and there is really good contrast because the housings are not very reflective, so they look dark when off and a deep orange when they are on, so excellent color contrast. Versus my old clears with the pillowed lenses that would reflect a lot of sunlight and be hard to see. But I didn't buy a bunch of 1295NA bulbs and a Tridon EL13 for nothing, so I'm going to make this work.
 

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