I have had the wall mounted version of the Jansjö lamp for about a year. I found it in the bargain corner for just 5 € compared to the normal price at 30 €, the neck was broken in one place but the light worked fine. It has a warm white SSC P4 LED. I've mostly used it in a garage, where it's flexible neck was nice to snake around places under a car. The wall mounted one also has an unusual long cable. It's silver colored.
The price dropped a fair bit a while ago for the Jansjö lamp on a foot, to 10 €. It now has a warm white Rebel LED instead of the SSC. I couldn't resist so I bought one white (a know that a black would have being better for cooling but it didn't fit in my room as the intended purpose. But I believe that rebels are tuff and I may hack it some day anyway. Moreover it will not be as hot if I forget it lit in sunlight).
Now that I own two of this lamp I could compare them. Besides the obvious that the silver one is supposed to be wall mounted and the white one is on a foot. Trying to figure out why it is one third of the price. From now on I will refer to the silver one with the SSC P4 to the "Wallm" and the white one with the Rebel to "Footst".
The Wallm one has as mentioned a ww SSC P4, it's a rather cool ww color almost neutral but just on the warm side of neutral. The optic lens is a little bit bigger and feels like better quality, almost like glass, and it has stand up to the harsh threatening of being dragged on a garage floor with just some minor scratches. The wallwart driver shall put out a constant current of 600 mA which I measured to 0,59 A. The ww P4 is rated to max 800 mA so it has some margin. It's not running warmer then it's possible to hold the head in your hand.
The Footst has a ww Rebel (I wonder why it has the hole base covered in phosphor?), that put out a rather warm light, like a halogen. The optic lens is flimsy and it rattles when the lamp is shacked. The wallwart doesn't say constant current but 750 mA and the ww rebel is only rated to 700 mA. But when measured, it only come up to 0,5 A and didn't fluctuate. Temperature feels the same as the Wallm. The driver, optic and a shorter cable is probably cheeper then on the Wallm.
Lux readings: I've no fancy equipment so this is not that scientific. First i measured in the spot from the same distance, 53 cm, and took the highest number i reached by moving around the sensor in the spot. Then I did a sealing bounce. Spot was 235 lux for the Wallm and 449 lux for the Footst. A big difference but the Footst narrower, warmer beam (the lux meter is calibrated at 2700 kelvin which benefits the warmer light) and scratch free optic obviously helped here. But on the other hand the Wallm had more current through it (0,59 vs. 0,5 A). Cealing bounce was 11,0 lux for the Wallm and 14,9 for the Footst.
Color redemption: Nothing beats a high CRI warm- or neutral white SSC P4. It is still the best power LED in this manner, it's remarkable that it has that since 2006 or so, at least by easily aviable power LEDs. I did the color comparable photos with a simple camera with the white balance set to "fine" which is for sunlight. The photos with this settings looks comparable to what my eyes sees in the sunlight control shoot and for the Wallm, but much to warm for the Footst (I also got that confirmed with control shoots with CCFL and halogen lamps).
Thankfully, no one of these two lamps have any flicker at all.
SSC P4
The Wallm
Wallm wallwart
Rebel
The Footst
Footst wallwart
Footst vs Wallm on a white wall
Wallm vs Footst
Control shot sunlight.
CRI Wallm
CRI 2 Wallm
CRI Footst
This photo is more like how my eyes see the Footst.
The Footst, Wallm and a 12 V, 20 W halogen.
Comparing
Conclusion: The Wallm is great as a work light and reading a magazine with its cooler light and excellent CRI. The Footst is great for reading a text book or average illumination and at that price a bargain. I have not done any reengineering yet so can't say how easy it is to change the emitters. But if you cheer me up to it I may at least pry the lens of the Wallm.
The price dropped a fair bit a while ago for the Jansjö lamp on a foot, to 10 €. It now has a warm white Rebel LED instead of the SSC. I couldn't resist so I bought one white (a know that a black would have being better for cooling but it didn't fit in my room as the intended purpose. But I believe that rebels are tuff and I may hack it some day anyway. Moreover it will not be as hot if I forget it lit in sunlight).
Now that I own two of this lamp I could compare them. Besides the obvious that the silver one is supposed to be wall mounted and the white one is on a foot. Trying to figure out why it is one third of the price. From now on I will refer to the silver one with the SSC P4 to the "Wallm" and the white one with the Rebel to "Footst".
The Wallm one has as mentioned a ww SSC P4, it's a rather cool ww color almost neutral but just on the warm side of neutral. The optic lens is a little bit bigger and feels like better quality, almost like glass, and it has stand up to the harsh threatening of being dragged on a garage floor with just some minor scratches. The wallwart driver shall put out a constant current of 600 mA which I measured to 0,59 A. The ww P4 is rated to max 800 mA so it has some margin. It's not running warmer then it's possible to hold the head in your hand.
The Footst has a ww Rebel (I wonder why it has the hole base covered in phosphor?), that put out a rather warm light, like a halogen. The optic lens is flimsy and it rattles when the lamp is shacked. The wallwart doesn't say constant current but 750 mA and the ww rebel is only rated to 700 mA. But when measured, it only come up to 0,5 A and didn't fluctuate. Temperature feels the same as the Wallm. The driver, optic and a shorter cable is probably cheeper then on the Wallm.
Lux readings: I've no fancy equipment so this is not that scientific. First i measured in the spot from the same distance, 53 cm, and took the highest number i reached by moving around the sensor in the spot. Then I did a sealing bounce. Spot was 235 lux for the Wallm and 449 lux for the Footst. A big difference but the Footst narrower, warmer beam (the lux meter is calibrated at 2700 kelvin which benefits the warmer light) and scratch free optic obviously helped here. But on the other hand the Wallm had more current through it (0,59 vs. 0,5 A). Cealing bounce was 11,0 lux for the Wallm and 14,9 for the Footst.
Color redemption: Nothing beats a high CRI warm- or neutral white SSC P4. It is still the best power LED in this manner, it's remarkable that it has that since 2006 or so, at least by easily aviable power LEDs. I did the color comparable photos with a simple camera with the white balance set to "fine" which is for sunlight. The photos with this settings looks comparable to what my eyes sees in the sunlight control shoot and for the Wallm, but much to warm for the Footst (I also got that confirmed with control shoots with CCFL and halogen lamps).
Thankfully, no one of these two lamps have any flicker at all.
SSC P4
The Wallm
Wallm wallwart
Rebel
The Footst
Footst wallwart
Footst vs Wallm on a white wall
Wallm vs Footst
Control shot sunlight.
CRI Wallm
CRI 2 Wallm
CRI Footst
This photo is more like how my eyes see the Footst.
The Footst, Wallm and a 12 V, 20 W halogen.
Comparing
Conclusion: The Wallm is great as a work light and reading a magazine with its cooler light and excellent CRI. The Footst is great for reading a text book or average illumination and at that price a bargain. I have not done any reengineering yet so can't say how easy it is to change the emitters. But if you cheer me up to it I may at least pry the lens of the Wallm.
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