Yes, my bike lives outside as well, always covered (except when I'm riding ). I've heard other folks mention the micro USB port as a possible weak link, however, Eric specifically mentioned that the port has been weather sealed, and when looking at the interior shot of the end cap where that port is located, it looks like they've added some silicon sealer to the area, so I think this light is reasonably well sealed. Of course it does come with a 2 year warranty, just in case.Yes, I had seen the Mini usb port.
but from what i have been seeing over the past few days, i'd say that is a big weak point. A friend of a friend popped down to mine shed yesterday ,as he had heard I had started messing with lights. He brought me a selection of dead and dying bike lamps. He is a 7 day a week cyclist, rain or shine, like myself, and the bike lives outside with his lights permanently bolted down. Yes covered , but always outside.
Every single one of these lights has failed due to water ingress through poor sealing around either rubber switches to electronic switch style driver boards....or micro USB charge ports.
Overall I like the dedicated reflex design.
I don't like: cool-white, modes, interface.
A nice 4500K neutral-white would be better.
Low should be 200 lumens x 2. Extra power low should be 400 lumens x 2 (wet black asphalt can really suck up the photons). DRL mode should be 100 lumens x 2.
High beam should be 400 lumens central LED, 200 lumens x 2 (flanking, low beams) If you oversaturate your near field, you won't have any distance vision.
Optical horn is a nice function to have, but should be a mechanical switch that puts the high beam to an extra special high output mode ~600 lumens, and lowers your lows to DRL (100 lumen mode), and stays there as long as you keep your finger on the switch.
LOL, I know it sounds weird, but it’s MUCH easier than it reads. It only took me a few minutes to become comfortable with using the big blue HIGHBEAM button to quickly access any of those neat features.
That's funny, because I too have the Ixon IQ Premium. Yes the color temp of the Specialized, while still cool, is much more neutral, more of a clean white. The main difference I notice between the two beam patterns is that the IQ Premium is wider, but with a sharper cut-off, while the Specialized light has a bit narrower beam pattern, but has more of a gradual fade at the edges.
As far as the mode switching, it's like anything that offers a lot of options, it simply takes playing with it for a while to understand the reasoning behind the setup, but once you do, it's actually fairly logical and easy to get to the mode you want. The first few times I took it out for a ride I was all over the place, but by the 3rd or 4th ride I had it down pat, and by that time I had come to appreciate not only the level of control I had, but how easy it was to make the light quickly do what I wanted.
I've got a feeling your Dad is going to love his new light, but beware, the Specialzed light's low power beam is brighter than even the IQ Premium's highest power setting, so you just might have to get another IXON to keep up with your Dad.
I'll look forward to hearing more of your thoughts as the two of you become acquainted with the new light.
Well, the instruction manual, which I admire, was an attempt to convey the workings of the light without words, so that somebody from any country could understand them, and to be fair, if you spend enough time deciphering all the symbols, they do actually get that information across in an elegant manner. However, I'll admit, the instructions can be a bit cryptic.I'll say this though, I looked through everything that came with the light, and online, and could not find any reference to why the [email protected]#@ light would just suddenly start doing that "light horn" thing for no apparent reason sometimes when I pushed a button. Your post was the first thing I've run across that gave a description of how it worked. How did you find it? Or did you just figure it out?