Hi,
Here's some more info sharing in the spirit of giving back to the community.
This was my first attempt at converting a torch (flashlight) into a usable bike (helmet) light, much inspired by a former MTB pal (thanks Gregor for, literally, helping me see the light!). Actually, these photos document both the original conversion of a Romisen RC-T5 (4 Cree XR-E Q4s) and the subsequent upgrade to the light engine and head of an RC-T6 (6 Crees).
I think this project pretty much maxes out the power that can be handled by this type of light (the internals are not ideally designed for heat management). But the lamp still has good heat transfer, merely gets lukewarm at full blast during cool weather riding and lights up the trails like a miniature sun - at a fraction of the price of comparable commercial systems. I am very pleased with the result.
All the parts layed out, before getting gooed/glued up. Had a shorter, fatter lamp body custom machined from aluminium. The head will still fit and run on the original body: but with the new, more powerful (Shark) driver, it will mucho rapido suck the life out of normal batteries!
Sigma Sport helmet mount: looks flimsy but in reality works really well
Test fit of the light in the mount. Looking good.
Epoxied together a contact pad for the lamp positive voltage spring plus a power plug holder, and epoxied those plus the power switch in place inside the new body. A veritable epoxy feast!
The RC-T5 light engine before modification
Ripped out the original driver/PWM combo (pictured) and replaced them with a Shark 1 amp boost driver
The four Crees rewired in series. Ran them with a somewhat sluggish 12V Nihm, ensuring that the driver would always be in boost mode and thus stay in regulation (i.e. Vin < Vf)
The finished item mounted on the helmet ... and ready to Rock'n'Roll. Choose an alu body so it would aid in cooling: it would be nice to loose the added weight, but so far this hasn't been a practical problem.
Moving on to the Romisen RC-T6 upgrade. Crees rewired in series again and custom "pill" cut from some copper tubing.
This time used a blue Shark with premounted Remora UI board. Covered the inside of the "pill" with Artic Silver epoxy to prevent short cutting the electronics: then potted the pill with tons of Artic Silver heat paste to conduct the heat away from the Shark. Also gooed the H... out of the rest of the head. (Apparently, Artic Silver is slightly conductive and Artic Alumina would have been a better choice. Learning never stops!)
Testing driving my nice, new lamp with my equally nice, new 14.8V Li-ion bottle battery. Very nice!
RC-T6 beamshot app. 1.2m from wall
For comparison Ultrafire R1 single rebel, single CR123A beamshot (wall)
Trail beamshot: Romisen RC-T6 (helmet mount). This light rules!
For comparison Ultrafire R1 single Rebel, single CR123A beamshot (trail)
Here's some more info sharing in the spirit of giving back to the community.
This was my first attempt at converting a torch (flashlight) into a usable bike (helmet) light, much inspired by a former MTB pal (thanks Gregor for, literally, helping me see the light!). Actually, these photos document both the original conversion of a Romisen RC-T5 (4 Cree XR-E Q4s) and the subsequent upgrade to the light engine and head of an RC-T6 (6 Crees).
I think this project pretty much maxes out the power that can be handled by this type of light (the internals are not ideally designed for heat management). But the lamp still has good heat transfer, merely gets lukewarm at full blast during cool weather riding and lights up the trails like a miniature sun - at a fraction of the price of comparable commercial systems. I am very pleased with the result.
All the parts layed out, before getting gooed/glued up. Had a shorter, fatter lamp body custom machined from aluminium. The head will still fit and run on the original body: but with the new, more powerful (Shark) driver, it will mucho rapido suck the life out of normal batteries!
Sigma Sport helmet mount: looks flimsy but in reality works really well
Test fit of the light in the mount. Looking good.
Epoxied together a contact pad for the lamp positive voltage spring plus a power plug holder, and epoxied those plus the power switch in place inside the new body. A veritable epoxy feast!
The RC-T5 light engine before modification
Ripped out the original driver/PWM combo (pictured) and replaced them with a Shark 1 amp boost driver
The four Crees rewired in series. Ran them with a somewhat sluggish 12V Nihm, ensuring that the driver would always be in boost mode and thus stay in regulation (i.e. Vin < Vf)
The finished item mounted on the helmet ... and ready to Rock'n'Roll. Choose an alu body so it would aid in cooling: it would be nice to loose the added weight, but so far this hasn't been a practical problem.
Moving on to the Romisen RC-T6 upgrade. Crees rewired in series again and custom "pill" cut from some copper tubing.
This time used a blue Shark with premounted Remora UI board. Covered the inside of the "pill" with Artic Silver epoxy to prevent short cutting the electronics: then potted the pill with tons of Artic Silver heat paste to conduct the heat away from the Shark. Also gooed the H... out of the rest of the head. (Apparently, Artic Silver is slightly conductive and Artic Alumina would have been a better choice. Learning never stops!)
Testing driving my nice, new lamp with my equally nice, new 14.8V Li-ion bottle battery. Very nice!
RC-T6 beamshot app. 1.2m from wall
For comparison Ultrafire R1 single rebel, single CR123A beamshot (wall)
Trail beamshot: Romisen RC-T6 (helmet mount). This light rules!
For comparison Ultrafire R1 single Rebel, single CR123A beamshot (trail)