Samsung ICR18650-28A (18650 2800MAH)

JTS, I started and have continued to charge both cells at 1.0 Amp. I discharge them at 2.0 Amps. I have been charging to 4.1 V and discharging to 2.9 V. My Voltmeter agrees (within .02 Volts) with the Voltage display on my Schulze 10-36.12 charger/discharger. My connections are direct to the battery (no holders) thru very strong magnets and alligator clips. Voltage on both the clips and the battery ends themselves are the same so no obvious Voltage drop. Both batteries are stone cold when charging.

I just suddenly realized that both times I've seen over 2700 mah put into the cell, it's been on my 2nd channel of the charger. Not sure why this is when both channels are programmed identically.

I'll try a few charges to 4.2 and discharges to 2.5 as suggested.
 
Some updates with first measurements you all already know.

Cell #1

1st cycle ... 2440mAh
2nd cycle ... 2478mAh

Cell #2

1st cycle ... 2334mAh
2nd cycle ... 2550mAh
3rd cycle ... 2556mAh

I'll do the third cycle for the first cell tomorrow.
 
WinX, are you charging to 4.2 and discharging to 2.5?

In just one test, I found the cell gave about 125 ma more between 3 V and 2.5 V.
 
BVH said:
WinX, are you charging to 4.2 and discharging to 2.5?

In just one test, I found the cell gave about 125 ma more between 3 V and 2.5 V.
Click to expand...

Yes and no. My Turnigy charges to 4.15v and after that I put the cell to WF-139 for a 10-15 minutes. I cannot discharge lower than 3.0v. There's no setting for a custom value in my cheap charger. I could set up some wire hassle to discharge more.

So my better cell might have a capacity of 2700mAh. I hope the other cell wakes up tomorrow. 😛
 
Last edited:
4th overall cycle on two cells. I discharged them to 2.5 V. and then charged them to 4.2 V. at a 1 Amp rate. After this, using a 2 Amp discharge rate, Cell 1 gave me 2485 mah and cell 2 gave me 2470.
 
Early tests have the 2900mah panasonic performing like either a 2400mah cell, 2500mah cell, 2600mah cell, 2700mah cell, 2800mah cell, 2900mah cell, or 3000mah cell.

Consistency!
 
jtsgalaxy said:
I would also suggest don't push the cell too hard during the breakin period (charge it at @ 1.2A or below if possible), you will also need to charge it fully to 4.2V and discharge to 2.5V (http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-data/pdf/ACA4000/ACA4000PE1.pdf look for NNP series) to force the lithium line up for better performance.
Click to expand...

Hi, what does the lt mean? I only understand "use charger that does 250mA"

Charge Current
We recommend the following current.
NNP series: Cylindrical type : 0.7 lt (or 0.3 lt for certain models)

Discharge Current
The current should be maintained at 1.0 It or less (contact Panasonic if you plan to discharge the batteries with a current in excess of 1.0 It)
 
"lt" has the same meaning as "C". It's on the Panasonic site in one of the PDF's accessed from the same page you find the NPP cell data you quoted.

So .7 lt is the same as .7C.

From the PDF : Represents "Current" and is defined as follows It(A)= Rated Capacity (Ah) / 1(h).
 
Last edited:
BVH said:
4th overall cycle on two cells. I discharged them to 2.5 V. and then charged them to 4.2 V. at a 1 Amp rate. After this, using a 2 Amp discharge rate, Cell 1 gave me 2485 mah and cell 2 gave me 2470.
Click to expand...


That sure is below the other tests we saw for these cells. Is Panasonic using a .5A or 1A discharge rate for reference?
 
etc said:
I want to use these unprotected cells with Malkoff M60 in a FiveMega 1x18650 body.

I understand that I get 1.5 hours of full lumens then a 2-hour tail.
Is it safe to use these cells, given that they will get obviously dim? I don't want to overdischarge them.
How deeply can you discharge them and can you visually detect when it's time to remove a dead cell?

I usually use AW's protected 18650s but these look very nice.
Click to expand...



In an LED application you just have to monitor the run-time and cell voltage until you get a feel for it. Chances are they'll power the M60 just fine for at least 3 hours but at the end of the run pull and check the battery voltage ever 10-15 minutes. 2.8V should be the minimum static voltage, to be safe.
 
I believe the standard discharge rate to use for true capacity is .1 or .2C. I did some 800 mah discharge cycles and the numbers were up to around 26xx. If I did .1 or .2, I think the capacity might be near advertised. I'm just after the capacity/runtime I'm going to get when used in my oracle 24 Watt packs. Looks like it will be 53 to 57 minutes. Better than 39 or 40.
 
Winx said:
Yes and no. My Turnigy charges to 4.15v and after that I put the cell to WF-139 for a 10-15 minutes. I cannot discharge lower than 3.0v. There's no setting for a custom value in my cheap charger. I could set up some wire hassle to discharge more.

So my better cell might have a capacity of 2700mAh. I hope the other cell wakes up tomorrow. 😛
Click to expand...

well you can, switch to Ni_mhy and select a DISCHARGE voltage there, of course its not recommened or anything, and you wouldnt want to mess up as you can sellect a way to low of voltage, but you CAN do it, if its anything like the other tenurgy
 
OK, I got a new entry to this thread.

First a little story:
Last weekend I think that I blew up the battery on my Tomtom GSP set. It was a couple of years old, I use it rather intensively and batteries tend to die on you. Instead of the factory 6 hours standby time, I had 2 hours left after a full charge. Last weekend I used it 3 days in a row 8 to 9 hours a day. (A motorcycle holiday with some friends.) Charging the battery at the bartender during lunch and discharging it during the trip. That went well until one of the last stops. I picked up the GSP set, mounted it to the bike and almost immediately it started flashing that it needed to be charged. 10 minutes later it died on me. First you think that something went wrong when I plugged it in. But when I got home, I charged it for 2 complete days and I could use it for about 10 minutes.
That's not good.
So, I could bring it back to the shop. But then they start charging you 50 euro's just for the investigation. 30 Euros for a new battery and at least a hour of labor. Add that up and it is almost cheaper to buy a new one. Since the warranty is long gone I decided to open it my self. There was no burning sensation to my nose, so I am quit sure that the circuit board is alright. I took out the battery (It looks fine actually). Googled the part numbers and pretty fast I started reading on this forum.

I found out 2 things here:
1. There are good and bad brands. Try to get your hands on Panasonic or Samsung if you can.
2. There have been some very interesting developments in battery land. The original battery is a 2200mAh, but you can get a 2900mAh with the same dimensions now. (0,2mm bigger, but that shouldn't be a problem.)

So I ordered a Panasonic 2900mAh yesterday. And according to my email box, it is already on it's way. That's fast!

Now the question:
The original battery has 3 wires coming out if it. I understand the red and black.
But what does the yellow do?
Will the GPS operate when it is not connected?
 
Loomy said:
Early tests have the 2900mah panasonic performing like either a 2400mah cell, 2500mah cell, 2600mah cell, 2700mah cell, 2800mah cell, 2900mah cell, or 3000mah cell.

Consistency!
Click to expand...

I'll say! I wonder what the deal with these is...?
 
Hi folks,

I just tested some Samsung 2800 mAh cells and they came out to be 2857 mAh! BUT: Make sure that this cell has an increased charinging voltage of 4,30V, not 4,20V. In the latter case it will only give you about 2600 mAh.

I discharged the cells at 500 mA to 2,75V constant current. That is almost 220 Wh/kg energy density - not too shabby ;-)

Charging to 4,20V will still give you 2,6 Ah and will greatly enhance cycle life.

Best
Lithium-LED
 
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