Seoul River Rock Mods (2-AAA and 1-AA)

[EngrPaul]

Haven't taken them out of the package yet.

Anybody have experience modding these yet? I soon will :devil:

 

[cratz2]

The 1xAA light has the tight focused 'moonbeam' type beam, right? I know a lot of CPFers don't like that beamshape, but if someone could make one really bright, I think it would be useful. The kinda bad thing about the River Rock moonbeam lights is the plastic they use isn't very clear. Compared to the glass of the old style Inova X1. Plus, the X1 focuses the beam a bit more tightly.

Now, on the 2xAAA light, I think if you can get a Cree or SSC in there and it focuses decently, I think you might be on to something. It seems like about every month or so, a new member comes in asking about a decent 2xAAA light. I used to put MJLEDs, SMJLEDs or WahWangs into 2xAA and 2xAAA Minimags, mostly to sell to nurses but with the River Rock lights, I stopped doing that and just referred them to a Target store.

Plus, the silver ones are only sale for $2.50 if you can find a Target store that still has any in stock.

 

[russtang]

I would buy one of the 2aaa with some seoul

 

[DaFABRICATA]

If there are ANY MODS for ANY RIVER ROCK light PLEASE let me know.
I have:
1...single AA Version
2...Two AA Version
3...single 123 cell Version
4...Two C Version
I really like all of them, but the single 123 cell version is great!
They seem well built and feel good in the hand. The only complaint I have is the clicky sucks on all BUT the "123 version" and the "C cell version"
How do I check the output of the converter board?
Does anyone know what these run at?
I too believe these lights have hope for modding....

ANYONE?????

 

[EngrPaul]

cratz2,Here are the respective beams.

The 2-AAA light is very blue. The 1-AA light is less blue but projects a moon beam like you said.

 

[EngrPaul]

The part numbers are T-TM311X-B and T-AL71AA respectively.

I think I'll open the 2-AAA one first. The other one might need a flat lens and reflector, if I can't get a good beam with the stock "magnifying" lens. That may require some time and patience...

 

[cratz2]

If there are ANY MODS for ANY RIVER ROCK light PLEASE let me know.
I have:
1...single AA Version
2...Two AA Version
3...single 123 cell Version
4...Two C Version
I really like all of them, but the single 123 cell version is great!
They seem well built and feel good in the hand. The only complaint I have is the clicky sucks on all BUT the "123 version" and the "C cell version"
How do I check the output of the converter board?
Does anyone know what these run at?
I too believe these lights have hope for modding....

ANYONE?????

I didn't even know they had a 1x123 River Rock light.

I definately think the 2xAAA should be easy enough to mod... once you get it open.

 

[DaFABRICATA]

OH! I've got 'em open and SSC P4's waiting for transplant. I just need more specs to be sure the emitter will be safe. The single 123 cell is by fall the best with the 2 C cell next ant the 2 AA cell after that and ending with the 1 AA cell.
I'd love to be able to keep the River Rock optic and increase output. I do have reflectors as well.
ANYONE????.........INFO???........Ma to the LED????

 

[EngrPaul]

OH! I've got 'em open

Can you share how you opened them? Can you post digital pictures of the insides?

 

[EngrPaul]

Got the 2AA apart

Removed pocket clip, heated head with hair dryer, unscrewed with silicon gloves on:

The spring washers and pill come out rather easy:

Close-up of emitter on driver board:

The reflector is pressed in from the front, I believe. I might dremel off what I need to remove from the back with and endmill-type attachment, instead of trying to remove the lens. However, the first thing I'm going to try is put a better 5mm LED in there and see how much better the light color and output is.

 

[StefanFS]

I modded an Aurora/River Rock 2AA before Christmas, it was fun and it does deliver a funky beam. You can manipulate focus with emitter height. I like the space invader style, the projected die shape, but if you set it lower it will be more like the original (use only an emitter then, I used a Cree star). I did try the SSC in this but it didn't agree with the optic, the Cree led gives a more useful beam in my light. See this link: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=155609
If you find a solution to the 0.5 watter please post it. I have one with the same board, but with 1 AA and a different body.
Stefan

Edit.
DeFabricata,
These lights use Nichia Jupiter leds, they are rated 3.2 - 3.6 V (or 3.6 - 4 V in some cases) for forward voltage. So both Cree and SSC should be ok. The 2 AA variant I have delivers ~500 mA to the led. So an Cree led (or SSC) will live happily for it's whole projected lifetime in these lights, safe and sound. I do, however, recommend using Cree leds for these lights with optics. I have tried it with an auxilliary reflector, the only effect is that less light goes into the spot, you get a more floody light. It works best with Cree because the Cree projects more light forward, right into the optic.

 

[EngrPaul]

 

[cratz2]

Beamshots, man... we need beamshots of the 2xAAA light!

 

[EngrPaul]

Beamshots? How nice and easy! I'd love to... tomorrow.

I've been too busy with vice grips and rubber sheets trying to get the 1xAA light apart... I don't think it's ever going to happen.

I need to do some other things for now...

 

[Pumaman]

:bow: The Borg of Flashaholisim
"You will be modded, resistance is futile"

 

[DaFABRICATA]

I cut a piece of wood 2X4 about 6 inches long, then used a hole saw slightly smaller than the head and drilled through the 2X4, next wrap the head with a section of bike rubber inner tube. Next, I cut down the center of the 2X4 and through the hole(go with the grain). Put the head wrapped in rubber with a piece of 2X4 on either side and put it in a vise. Use a pair of adjustable pliers and more bike rubber tire tube wrapped around the body and twist apart. Righty tighty/ lefty loosy. So far this has worked to open a River Rock 2AA/ & Surefire KL1/ KL3/ M3/ KT4/ & KL4 heads.

 

[selfbuilt]

I've been too busy with vice grips and rubber sheets trying to get the 1xAA light apart... I don't think it's ever going to happen.

I feel your pain - I've struggled repeatedly to open my 2AA version of this light (under the Aurora name), so far without success (strap wrenches, hair dryer, table vice, etc.). After StephanFS earlier description of putting a cree in there, I've been dying to try it out.

I've been meaning to get back to it ... once the skin grows back on my fingers :sweat:

 

[StefanFS]

Mine was very difficult to get open. The magic ticket was using doublesided stickytape on the upper part of the bezel, then I put the body in my vise, then I put a baggage strap on the sticky tape and twisted counterclockwise and horizontally with my biggest wrench/machine pliers. These lights were epoxied by a salivating sadist.
Stefan

Edit.
Just to up your motivation to do this.
I went out tonight and took some long distance shots. 2.5 sec exposure. Looks "almost" real. In reality the beam is brighter. With my Aurora/River Rock 2 AA with an Cree P4 WC, on fresh alkalines. It's shaky, handheld long exposure shots. But you'll get the picture I think.

Across a soccer pitch (~80-100 meters)

Diagonal over a soccer pitch, slightly more than 100 meters.

Edit. I haven't actually measured these distances, so a bit of caution here... It's a full sized soccer pitch though, and those are large. The blue tint comes from the long exposure and the light rain that was falling yesterday evening.

 

[selfbuilt]

Wow ... I think I need to use the drool icon now!

Seriously, looks great. I'll have to get back at it. A slightly warm tint cree should help ... hmmm.

 

[Mike L.]

EngrPaul: Bringing this one back up because I would like to know the results of the 2 AAA mod. Do you think is is worthwhile?

I have the host taken apart and ready to go, but my modding resources are limited. I don't want to use an emitter that might serve better in another light.

Thanks!

Mike L.