Shark/Remora

[beetleguise]

Ok LED Flashoholics, here goes my first LED mod! I am doing 4 cree xre q5's driven with the shark/remora board. I have found very few pictorials and tutorials, well, ok I've found none.
So, if anyone out here in CPF land has any experience in this sorta thing, I would appreciate some help. I saw 2 pics on the sandwhich shop for instructions on how to use the remora as a didgital pot, but it wasn't enough to help a newbie like me. Is there a previous post of a tutorial on how to connect the two and wire into the switch/lights? Or, could someone post pics and instructions on how they put their's together? I still don't have my driver, but it will be here soon. I could probably figure this out on my own, but with $350.00 invested in parts so far, I don't want to goof!
Thanks all!
Any help appreciated!:help:

 

[acourvil]

Well, I'd like to help. but I gave up on the Remora board after two tries w/o getting it to work. I opted for an external pot instead, which worked like a charm.

 

[Firecop]

I just recently completed the same mod...4 Cree Q5's in a 3D Mag host driven by 9 AA NiMh through a Shark/Cree.

Nereus, 3rd Shift and DonShock have all been huge helps to me...thanks again guys!

As for the remora, I've been pleased with it so far; unfortunately, I haven't had a good scene to use it on yet.

The photo on the Shoppe website provided me with the info I needed. Granted, it was a little challenging, but doable. The key I found was to use 2 different wire gauges connecting the Shark and Remora.

1: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_61&products_id=721
Using this photo as your orientation, remove the trimpot labeled "current adjust". I don't know the correct way of doing this, but I heated the accessible contacts with an iron, then popped the trimpot off with small needlenose pliers. Be Careful!

2: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_49_61&products_id=988
In the right hand photo, use a small piece of wire to connect the two contacts indicated.

3: The large photo on the same page shows a red wire running from the Remora to the top of the Shark board near the Gnd/Vin holes...this one is easy; I used 22 ga solid wire.

4: This is the part that caused me no end of trouble. If you look at the Remora board, you'll see three holes in a row on the left of the IC (?), one of which is shown in Step #3. The two holes immediately *below* those three are the ones used to connect to the Shark (just below the trimpot area.

I used 24 ga solid wire, pre-tinned to connect the two boards. Just make sure that you line them up like in the photo; connect the right to right and left to left. I read somewhere that heatsinking both boards was a good idea, so I used longer wires which enabled the Remora to lay next to the Shark, not above it. I used thermal epoxy to attach these to the inside of my Mag tube just above the switch.

I hope this helps, and I really hope that I did it correctly. If anyone else has any better thoughts, please let me know so I don't mess up my next mod.

Oh, BTW, my office just recently got the new Pelican RMS. It's a 20Ah lead battery in a Pelican case driving 16 40lm Luxeons for scene lighting. I'll get photos and a review this weekend.

Stay safe!

 

[beetleguise]

Thanks for the advice! Anyone else feel free to add, pics encouraged!

 

[buschpounder]

I believe if ordered after Oct 1, the shark no longer has to be jumpered. You can also order it with the trim pot removed. I recently tried a M@g mod for first time and could not get the remora to work properly with the 3 levels. I ended up removing it and having the one level the shark provided. More likely a problem with my inexperience in soldering than a problem witht the remora.

 

[yellow]

solder two small wires into the 2 "meeting holes" of the Shark,
solder led wires in,
put the 2 wires into the "meeting holes" of the Remora and solder them in,
finally solder that wire, as in the pic.

I just did the Shark/Remora I purchased some time ago.
Removed the poti by heating it totally from above till it came loose ...
but I must say, I'm not impressed.
Setup is three Crees with two 18650.
level 1 is some 110 mA (too bright), 2 is 330 mA (too low) and 3 finally 800 mA (WAY too low as I would like).
Also I am used to the astoundingly better switching action of my flupic and absolutely HATE that "remember last setting". Somehow there is not give power --> level 1 --> remove it quickly and apply again --> lvl 2 --> remove and apply --> level 3. Its apply and let go, apply again and let go, ..., till one notices (measures) a change in output, then do the switching.
Hold for some secs and the "remember" kicks in. Then wait SOME time (not a few secs) till it might go on in level 1 again, if not, do the appyl and remove, till the levels change.

Next mod will see a maxflex.

But I have one thing to say: that SHARK is extremely sturdy.
By accident I happened to use the wrong batt. Used the 14.4 Li-Ion. My meter (at the leds) showed 3 A, the small resistor (at left in the pic) came loose, as it heated up too much. I soldered it in again and gave the circuit a try: everything works as before!!
Really astounding :thumbs up: