Shootout: 1185, 5761, WF-500. Reflector comparison. AW 3-level switch comparison.

2xTrinity

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A couple months ago I bought a whole bunch of reflectors, batteries and other parts just to have around in case I wanted to build something "down the road." They have been collecting dust until this weekend, when I decided to actually put all those loose parts to good use:

The Contestants:

Click thumbnails to see full size image.


All 5 are run on LiIons, and all except the 18650 light feature AR-Coated UCLs:

The Unnamed 18650 Light
Runtime: 50 minutes
  • Ultrafire "grey" protected 18650
  • 3.7V P60-like lamp
  • forward clicky
Ultrafire WF-500
Runtime: 25 minutes
  • AW Protected 18500s
Ridiculously oversized compared to the battery. I mainly included this to make the pics with the 5 lights on the table look better :p

2C Mag61
Runtime: 25 minutes
  • 2x AW Protected LiIon C-Cells
  • Kaidomain SMO reflector, bored to fit 5761
  • Kiu Socket
  • GID switch membrane backlit with 2 UV LEDs
I decided to use my SMO in this one to make it long-throwing "shock and awe" light -- the brightest light I own that will fit in a jacket pocket. Eventually I plan to cut out the switch assembly entirely and use a tailswitch to make it even smaller. There is audible arcing every time I switch the light on, so I may need to do this pretty soon...

2D Mag61
Runtime: 45/90/180 minutes
  • 2x Kaidomain Protected LiIon D-Cells (soft starter required)
  • AW 3-Level soft starter
  • Kaidomain MOP reflector, bored to fit 5761
This will replace my 2C ROP (which is now a 5761...) as my second most used light, a reasonably long running flood light for situations where my LF2x is too weak.

I was disappointed with the Kai cells, they cut out at 6A even with soft start. I was hoping I'd be able to load 4 of them and the AW switch into a 4D and run something in the 100W territory (~7-8A draw) with over 30 minutes total runtime.

4C Mag85
Runtime: 45 minutes (emoli)
  • 3x random 18650s just for this test, soon to be emoli 26700
  • Fivemega MOP Reflector
  • Kiu Socket
  • GID switch membrane backlit with 3 UV LEDs
I originally wanted to do something really amazing with this 4C, but 1185 is about the only option -- anything brighter typically requires 4-6 emoli cells to get interesting, and 4 AW cells even though they're the right voltage can't handle the current of the >100W lamps.

Ultimately I want to build the emolis into packs with a 3-cell protection board, and charging jack in the light. I will use the Fivemega stainless steel tailcap to make room for the cells. The extra weight on the end will make the light better suited for tailstanding, and :twak: . I will also use this to experiment with things like power MOSFET relays, and voltage indicator LEDs.



The Shootout:


Left to Right: NoNamer, WF500, 2C 5761 (Kai SMO), 2D 5761 (Kai MOP), 1185 (FM MOP)


Left: 2C 5761 SMO Reflector
Right: 2D 5761, Kai MOP Reflector, Low/Med/High

Low/Med/High corresponds to 30%, 60%, and 100% power consumption.

Both have Kiu socket. The 2C has stock spring, the 2D has kai gold spring. The combination of switch resistance, tailspring resistance, and higher internal resistance in the AW C cells compared to the Kaidomain D cells is obvious from the differnece in brightness/color temp. The 2D is actually noticeably higher color temp than my 3500k fluorescent.


Left: 1185, WF500, NoNamer
Right: 2D 5761, constant output (camera is auto exposure, -2 stops)


Left to Right: 1185 (FM MOP), 5761 (Kai MOP), 5761 (Kai SMO)

Fixed 2" exposure.
I don't know distance to the tree, and beam isn't exactly centered in the same spot each time. This beamshot was actaully done from the balcony of my apartment building, so I was trying to do this as quickly and discretely as possible by covering up all the spill using towels so it wouldn't shine in people's windows.

Relative beam intensity is a lot more obvious than on the overexposed images on my wall. Basically, result are depended on how heavily textured the reflector is.
 
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Man, you just answered some of my questions for my next build. I've been wanting to do the 5761 with the AW 3-Level soft starter in a 2C, so after seeing this i think I'm going to. I just purchased the AW switch for my 64623 15.6V setup for my shock and awe light. Next, because of you, will be my EDC light using the 2C setup. But where can I get those GID backlit membrane switches? I have to have one of those...or three!!! Oh wait, will those even work with the AW switch?

Great Post.
 
Man, you just answered some of my questions for my next build. I've been wanting to do the 5761 with the AW 3-Level soft starter in a 2C, so after seeing this i think I'm going to.
Yeah, the soft starter will help with the resistance issue (which I believe is mostly due to the stock switch), and the multilevel is quite useful, especially in a "EDC" hotwire.

I just purchased the AW switch for my 64623 15.6V setup for my shock and awe light. Next, because of you, will be my EDC light using the 2C setup. But where can I get those GID backlit membrane switches? I have to have one of those...or three!!! Oh wait, will those even work with the AW switch?

Great Post.
Right now I don't have 64623. That was originally why I bought most of this stuff, before I knew about the current limit on the Kai cells. I didn't want to build something that for similar size/weight only gets ~10 minutes cumulative runtime... When I eventually do make my '623, I will move the AW switch over and revert to a resistance-modded stock switch for the 5761.

BTW I haven't found a way to make the GID work with the AW switch. Both the others are using stock mag switches, where I simply carved cavities out for all the LEDs/resistors/wires using a dremel tool. If I do figure something out, I'll update this thread.

You may want to subscribe to it, as I could be bumping this months from now.
 
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Hey nice job on this lineup. If you get a chance, it would be easier to keep them straight (at least for my pea brain) if you put labels above/below photo's, as I kept getting them mixed up going back and forth with text list in the various combos.

In any case, it is more great and useful information. Thanks again! :wave:
 
BTW I haven't found a way to make the GID work with the AW switch. Both the others are using stock mag switches, where I simply carved cavities out for all the LEDs/resistors/wires using a dremel tool. If I do figure something out, I'll update this thread.

Ok Trinity, I think I'm gonna give this a go on my Mag 2D ROP. Could you let me know what membrane/LED's you used and how the resistors worked? Or just any info on this would help me out a lot as I'm a noob. Thanks
 

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