ElectronGuru
Flashaholic
Had to happen 😀
Wow, thats cool, the filament almost looks intact. Was this heat induced or some kind of shock?
Show your D and C mag mods
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Wow, thats cool, the filament almost looks intact. Was this heat induced or some kind of shock?
Polar Light
Newly Enlightened
I suppose i was heat. The glass went first and the filament couple of seconds after. A lot of cleaning...
supasizefries
Enlightened
The XX-Ray: 5 neutral white MC-E in a Mag 2.25D powered by 4 IMR 18650
Unnamed Mag 2C triple cool white MC-E, 2x IMR 26500
Another in pewter, Ledil Boomerang spot reflectors:
A Mag 2C neutral white MC-E "light engine" from DX parts. Each driver drives half the MC-E (2P). Powered by 2x18650 LiFePO4 cells.
I don't have a pic of the business end, but fully assembled, it looks like any other single MC-E, 53mm reflector Mag Mod in plain black 2C.
(Wish I had posted before Mac :mecry:I feel silly even bringing this after his ante.)
Hey Techjunkie, how are the triple MC-E's wired? Any drivers involved? Very very nice! I want to attempt to build one of these. The thought of triple quad emitters in a 2C sized mag is awesome! :twothumbs
:thumbsup: thats my exact question... i've been wanting to run 3 mc-e's off of 2 LION's but haven't come up with 'perfect' solution... the only thing I can find that might work is using the CCHIPO but the amount of input current required makes it less than ideal :ironic: ....
Anyone have any thoughts on a mult. level driver to use with a 3xMc-E setup in a 2C maglite?!
supasizefries
Enlightened
Not really a mag.....but Mag Compatible....Owe but there is one major difference it's Titanium 🙂
^^ Holy moly...
:wow:
GLOCK18
Enlightened
Holy Moly +1
Techjunkie
Enlightened
No drivers. I modified MC-E series boards to make each MC-E 2P2S, then wired all three in parallel (6P2S). The IMR batteries are too strong to direct drive them, so I used two 5W 0.47ohm resistors in parallel to add 0.235ohm resistance to drop the voltage just enough to keep the emitters from turning blue. As the battery voltage eventually begins to sag (from use, not from load) the current draw reduces and so does the effect of the resistors. In this way, the resistors have no noticible effect once the batteries are drained down to a level that's safe for the emitters. Current draw is about 4.6A on a fresh charge, which is just slightly over spec for a 6P2S configuration.
Check out the pics at the MC-E maddness link in my signature to see how it was all done.
Even better, check out post #10 in this thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=217381
:thumbsup: thats my exact question... i've been wanting to run 3 mc-e's off of 2 LION's but haven't come up with 'perfect' solution... the only thing I can find that might work is using the CCHIPO but the amount of input current required makes it less than ideal :ironic: ....
Anyone have any thoughts on a mult. level driver to use with a 3xMc-E setup in a 2C maglite?!
If you want modes, I think you could use a d2flex from TaskLED.
If you wanted regulation instead of gradually dimming output, and you could find room to fit it all in the C tube, you could wire each of the MC-E's (wired individually as 4P) to their own hipCC driver. You might even be able to control each of the hipCCs with a single d2flex. Similarly, you could use three sharks (with 4S boards) or shark-bucks (with 4P boards) and a single remora, again, if room allows. I don't know how many shark sinks fit into the C tube. If it's three, than this could work.
At the time that I built the two 3xMCE 2C torches, my motivation was keeping the cost down. Having struggled with some expensive drivers since then, I'm glad I built these the way I did. Fear of abusing $100 worth of electronics in the XX-Ray has turned it into something of a shelf queen.
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supasizefries
Enlightened
Hey Techjunkie, thanks for the information! Will regular AW prot. 18650's be able handle the load in the 6P2S configuration?
Oh and the link didn't work........nevermind you fixed it.
Oh and the link didn't work........nevermind you fixed it.
Techjunkie
Enlightened
I think they will, although you'd be in the amperage range where the IMRs are recommended over the LiCos. AW's sales thread has a chart in one of the posts to help you decide where the IMR chemistry actually provides longer runtime because the mAH rating on the LiCo cells is not the same at high current draw.
As for whether or not the AW protected cells could be used... I'm pretty sure that people have run Philips 5761 bulbs from those batteries and those bulbs pull ~6A of current. When the batteries are fully topped off, 8.4V would overdrive the LEDs and they'd pull even more current than that. Without the resistors, I measured over 7A draw on the IMRs fully charged, which is why the LEDs would turn blue. I think the LiCo chemistry would cause the voltage to sag enough to bring them back to a usable range. I had some Sanyo 2600mAH unprotected cells and they sagged enough to not require the resistors. Current draw was in the 2C range.
With the AW protected LiCo cells topped off, if you didn't add the resistors, you might have use several clicks to start, or even rest them or bleed off some charge in another torch. My recommendation is if you have them already, try them without the resistors. If you need the resistors, that's still cheaper than buying new batteries. If you dont' have them already, get the IMR versions instead - they're safe chemistry and can handle much heavier loads. (You'll definitely need the resistors then.)
If you want to discuss this further, let's open a new thread instead of continuing here.
Techjunkie
Enlightened
Two new creations in this pic:
The LED USL, completed (in the middle) and
The incomplete one to the right of middle became the Mark VIII, 1 warm MC-E surrounded by 4 warm XR-E, Mag 3C, 2x Sony 26650VT
Also in the works, 5x warm/neutral white CREE XRE in Purple Mag 2C with 2 LiFePO4 18650 batteries and DX26106 5-mode driver
The LED USL, completed (in the middle) and
The incomplete one to the right of middle became the Mark VIII, 1 warm MC-E surrounded by 4 warm XR-E, Mag 3C, 2x Sony 26650VT
Also in the works, 5x warm/neutral white CREE XRE in Purple Mag 2C with 2 LiFePO4 18650 batteries and DX26106 5-mode driver
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supasizefries
Enlightened
Wow Techjunkie! I think that's the most MC-E's I've seen in one photograph!
Maybe you can get a photo of all of them on at the same time?? :huh:
Maybe you can get a photo of all of them on at the same time?? :huh:
I have 2 that are worth posting. One is a cutdown red 2.5D with FM Throwmaster running a regulated 5761 from 3x26500's. The other is a standard 2D that has been given the HA Black treatment my Led Zeppelin.
The standard 2D is the shiny one with the easily readable lettering, the HA one is more matt. The lettering is still there, just not so obvious, I love it.
Cheers,
Nova
The standard 2D is the shiny one with the easily readable lettering, the HA one is more matt. The lettering is still there, just not so obvious, I love it.
Cheers,
Nova
DUQ
Flashlight Enthusiast
DX P7 inside a Sub 1D powered with 2 x 17670's.
Beamshot at ~25ft.
Beamshot at ~25ft.
ElectronGuru
Flashaholic
Not sure which is more red, the flashlight or that sky.
:kewlpics:
:kewlpics:
Hack On Wheels
Enlightened
DUQ
Flashlight Enthusiast
The bezel can be found here ---> 55mm Mag Bezel and the P7 drop in is here ---> DX P7 Mag
