Show your nightstand flashlight!

[lightfooted]

Surefire C2, Solarforce L2M, Olight Warrior mini, Olight i5T and i3T are what currently sit at my bedside. The Olights also go with me to work with one or two of my other lights. The Surefire and Solarforce both have a Solarforce P60 operating at 3.7V and supposedly throwing out 450 lumens. Close enough to it for me. The Surefire is powered by a Keeppower 16650. A Keeppower 16340 is in the Solarforce. RayOVac NiMH in the i5T and Energizer Lithium in the i3T.

 

[Orion]

I haven't been on this board for........well, I have no idea how long. I kinda got out of the flashlight hobby. But I decided to pop onto the board and I had a message from Mister Ed about me not having posted in awhile and this link about the bedside flashlight. So here I am.

What I have at my bedside is a Lumitop FW3A with warm color LEDs [OD Green body],...a Jetbeam RRT01 Raptor with warm colored LED, but also an original Jetbeam RRT01 that I love the most because of it's ridiculously variable output ability. The newer RRT01 flashlights are good...and I use another cool LED one as an EDC,...but neither that one, or the warm LED Raptor can produce the "fraction of a glow" ability of the original RRT01. There's no useful light, when it is shining like that, of course,....but it's really neat to look at the faint glow of the LED emitter.

 

[thermal guy]

Been trying this setup out for awhile now and absolutely love it. A 4000K reflector hound dog with a diffuser from my V7 wildcat. Nothing but flood and low is perfect for night runs to the kitchen.

 

[knucklegary]

What do you use the Bowie for, late nite slices of cheese and crackers?

 

[thermal guy]

Lol just always keep it handy, just in case😁

 

[SCEMan]

 

[therock]

Fenix RC15

 

[yazkaz]

View attachment 26104

Nice 1911. What model is it? Seems like a ParaOrd to me (due to the thick grip and double-column clip design). Also that BoMar rear sights.

 

[RWT1405]

My 2 night stand lights.

EDCL2-T for “bumps in the night”.

Streamlight Night Com that I keep in HI LED (Red) mode for getting around in dark/low light conditions.

 

[SCEMan]

Nice 1911. What model is it? Seems like a ParaOrd to me (due to the thick grip and double-column clip design). Also that BoMar rear sights.

Nice catch... Yep it's a ParaOrd F16 kit I built in 96' with a fitted Barsto barrel in a Jim Hoag modded slide with a BoMar sight. Real tack driver.

 

[knucklegary]

My 2 night stand lights.

EDCL2-T for “bumps in the night”.

Streamlight Night Com that I keep in HI LED (Red) mode for getting around in dark/low light conditions.

You are the first guy I've seen who owns a SL Night Com.. Does the white beam also have a low mode?

Is red low .5 lm outdoors have enough throw to keep a person maneuvering safely?

Cool flashlight! Thx..

 

[RWT1405]

You are the first guy I've seen who owns a SL Night Com.. Does the white beam also have a low mode?

Is red low .5 lm outdoors have enough throw to keep a person maneuvering safely?

Cool flashlight! Thx..

The white is a single level, @ 105 lmns

I find the .5 lmns, NV Red, is generally not enough to maneuver, at least for me.

I use it almost exclusively for the Red LEDS, yet has a decent white “back-up” light immediately available.

I have a few of these, as I always carry one in my travel bag.

It has a Safety “lock out” mode, which also makes it a great flashlight for a travel bag, etc..

It is actually one of my favorite flashlights, as it is so versatile!

 

[aaronu]

No picture, maybe I will add one.

Two lights,

One is an M2 with clicky tailcap and a 460lm drop-in. Bright enough to mess up night vision for all parties if I light it up inside the house. I almost never grab this light. If I do, very likely I am also reaching for the phone and/or something that goes bang.

Two is another Surefire; an early A2 with 50lm incandescent main and green secondaries. The secondaries are great for lunking around in the dark. I remember when 50 lumens was pretty spicy and IMO it's plenty of light for most things.

Honorable mention: I gifted my dad a 6P with blue filter and P60L drop-in (80lm). When he passed away a few years ago I got it back. So that sits next to the others for now.

For the record I have a few newer and more complex lights but nothing I trust to "just work" like I trust the Surefires.

 

[yazkaz]

Back on topic...

Nice catch... Yep it's a ParaOrd F16 kit I built in 96' with a fitted Barsto barrel in a Jim Hoag modded slide with a BoMar sight. Real tack driver.

That pistol is 25 years old already? Wow you've really made an effort to keep it alive and working. I did, however not recall the F16 model but instead the P14. If I remember correctly the ParaOrd was the talk of the town back in the 90s.

 

[yazkaz]

Honorable mention: I gifted my dad a 6P with blue filter and P60L drop-in (80lm). When he passed away a few years ago I got it back. So that sits next to the others for now.

For the record I have a few newer and more complex lights but nothing I trust to "just work" like I trust the Surefires.

For a nightstand light I wouldn't go for anything complex and multi-mode either. Has to be a "grab and go" and "on and off" one.

Again no pics to present here, but my current "nightstand" light is the incan Streamlight Scorpion with an LF tower module installed. The current module iteration does produce a heck a lot of output, with good hotspot and very wide and usable sidespill. Perfect as a roomsweeper for indoors.

 

[RWT1405]

For a nightstand light I wouldn't go for anything complex and multi-mode either. Has to be a "grab and go" and "on and off" one.

Again no pics to present here, but my current "nightstand" light is the incan Streamlight Scorpion with an LF tower module installed. The current module iteration does produce a heck a lot of output, with good hotspot and very wide and usable sidespill. Perfect as a roomsweeper for indoors.

Not a bad choice at all.

While I understand your logic (I have no use for "multiple mode clickies" for such situations) , and generally agree with it, there are exceptions to that rule/logic (at least for me).

The exception (for me) is a flashlight such as the SureFire EDCL1/2-T with the "gas pedal" switch.

I first became familiar with that switch, many years ago, with the L2.

It allows me to have a low-level light, with a "light" push or turn (my usual way to use it) the tail cap until low-level is engaged, a full push then allows me to instantly access the high-level.

If need be, a full push, anytime, will take me right to the high-level.

For my money, this system ("gas pedal") is the finest available on any flashlight.

As always, what works for me, might not work for you, but if you haven't tried it, I very highly recommend it.

 

[yazkaz]

Not a bad choice at all.

While I understand your logic (I have no use for "multiple mode clickies" for such situations) , and generally agree with it, there are exceptions to that rule/logic (at least for me).

The exception (for me) is a flashlight such as the SureFire EDCL1/2-T with the "gas pedal" switch.

I first became familiar with that switch, many years ago, with the L2.

It allows me to have a low-level light, with a "light" push or turn (my usual way to use it) the tail cap until low-level is engaged, a full push then allows me to instantly access the high-level.

If need be, a full push, anytime, will take me right to the high-level.

For my money, this system ("gas pedal") is the finest available on any flashlight.

As always, what works for me, might not work for you, but if you haven't tried it, I very highly recommend it.

I totally get your point -- the low-high twisty operation. I've been there too, as I also own an A2. But my overall experience is only so-so.

One major problem is user serviceability, which is nearly impossible. If the high/low fails, and if no more replacement tailcaps can be issued, then you'll need to take out the tailcap's internal chassis for inspection and repair (without breaking anything else within the tailcap chassis), which involves extensive cleaning and maybe resistor replacement (if necessary). As I cannot undertake all these tasks, I ended up getting spare tailcaps just in case. The only possible user serviceability are switch boot replacement and custom tail shroud upgrades.

Back to the low/high operation. I generally find the "gas pedal" actuation approach not convenient. Instead, when using the A2, I'll twist it to "always low" first, then press for high whenever necessary. Only when not in use will I twist to off position entirely.

 

[RWT1405]

I totally get your point -- the low-high twisty operation. I've been there too, as I also own an A2. But my overall experience is only so-so.

One major problem is user serviceability, which is nearly impossible. If the high/low fails, and if no more replacement tailcaps can be issued, then you'll need to take out the tailcap's internal chassis for inspection and repair (without breaking anything else within the tailcap chassis), which involves extensive cleaning and maybe resistor replacement (if necessary). As I cannot undertake all these tasks, I ended up getting spare tailcaps just in case. The only possible user serviceability are switch boot replacement and custom tail shroud upgrades.

Back to the low/high operation. I generally find the "gas pedal" actuation approach not convenient. Instead, when using the A2, I'll twist it to "always low" first, then press for high whenever necessary. Only when not in use will I twist to off position entirely.

That is how I utilize mine also.

On scene/etc., if needed, I rotate to constant on “low-level”, and simply smash it hard (in situations that is needed, that is what will likely happen naturally).

I guess I’ve been lucky, as I’ve not had such problems with my tail cap/switches.

Any flashlight I utilize on-duty, or for CCW/home defense, I also maintain at least one back-up (if not more) for each.

Again, for my money (perhaps no one else’s), it is the finest tail cap/switch system available, for that use.

I’m sorry to hear you have had problems with yours.

 

[SCEMan]

Back on topic...

That pistol is 25 years old already? Wow you've really made an effort to keep it alive and working. I did, however not recall the F16 model but instead the P14. If I remember correctly the ParaOrd was the talk of the town back in the 90s.

1911s work forever with a little lubrication. The F16 was a gunsmith "in-the-white" frame kit that came with two 15-rd .45 mags.

 

[yazkaz]

That is how I utilize mine also.

On scene/etc., if needed, I rotate to constant on “low-level”, and simply smash it hard (in situations that is needed, that is what will likely happen naturally).

I guess I’ve been lucky, as I’ve not had such problems with my tail cap/switches.

Any flashlight I utilize on-duty, or for CCW/home defense, I also maintain at least one back-up (if not more) for each.

Again, for my money (perhaps no one else’s), it is the finest tail cap/switch system available, for that use.

I’m sorry to hear you have had problems with yours.

Just to clarify, all the high/low A2 twisties I own have experienced NO problems at all -- just yet. I take effort to clean and lubricate the internal tailcap chassis whenever possible. However, having known of such tailcap's problems, I decided to procure a few more just in case. Unfortunately that was the time when SF stopped issuing many legacy parts, including the A2/L replacement tailcap, so I ended up purchasing a few used ones on eB, in various conditions. (I only acquired the A2 back in 2019.)

So, as you can see, when SF tailcaps fail then you're pretty much on your own now. And that's one of the reasons I've sold off my Z48 and SW02 tailcaps, because I can't service them myself in case of failure. I now stick primarily to the Z41 (and Z57/61) McClicky mods for SF light setups as this is the only user-serviceable tailcap config. So do take extreme TLC to your tailcaps, especially the two-stage twisties.