Interesting, because I HATED the UI on the NDI.I am in the same situation you are in, I will be going away from western civilization for a couple months. I went with the Nitecore Defender Infinity because I like the user interface much, much more than the D10. Especially considering the fact that you're going to Africa, which can be a pretty dangerous place. If you keep the head twisted down when it's in your pocket / holster it will come on on bright, no matter wat you do with it. Turning it on on low is as simple as twisting the head a little bit loose (a tiny turn is enough) and pressing the forward clicky. Back to bright while on: tighten the head and you have bright light. It also has a strobe, which you can acces by turning the light on on high and loosening and tightening the head in less than half a second. Impossible to do accidentially, very easy to do when necessary.
I think the value of being able to turn a light on on the brightest mode whenever you want to, in whatever mode you're in is a big plus when going to possibly dangerous places. In a stressful situation you'll probably forget how many times you need to click to get bright light (I know I do, and I'm extremely good at coping with stress), but turning the head is a gross motoric movement so you'll be able to do it even if you're too stressed to read / think / count clicks. Don't underestimate how "dumb" and "uncapable" extreme stress makes you. Tunnel vision, trembling, unability to speak properly, unability to read, I've experienced it all, and the only thing that saved me (and the people around me) was the fact that I knew how to use a fire extinguisher before the event. Don't ever count on being able to read a manual or think about the operation of a life-saving device, you won't, otherwise you wouldn't need it.
That is why the Nitecore Defender Infinity is my primary EDC light and the light I will take with me wherever I go. A backup or two (three? four?) will also go with me, but the NDI will be on my belt wherever I go because I know I can use it even when I'm too stressed to think properly.
If you use high or turbo most of the time I recommend the Fenix because of the run time. If you use low most of the time and often wish that your flashlight could be dimmer, I'd recommend the D10. I got the D10 and the LF5XT just the other day. The D10 is fantastic. I love how easy and fast it is to increase the brightness.
I'm withholding judgment on the LF5XT, until I can figure out how to program it. I liked it at first, then I tried to change some of the settings. Talk about frustrating! I tried for more than an hour. Not only could I not get the settings changed the way I want, I can't figure out how to get to to just go back to the factory defaults. Now when it's off and click the button, it starts a beacon that flashes every four seconds. That beacon won't stop until I take out the battery. I took the battery out and left it out overnight. I was hoping that it would go back to the factory settings when I put the battery in. No such luck. The beacon is back.[/quote]
Oh man does that bring back memories (only mine went into strobe and not beacon). I agree with you on the ease of the D10, though. The previous poster went with the NDI (unreliable clicky switch IMO) because of the ease of getting high mode. The D10 has exactly two clicking shortcuts. Click twice for min and click twice but hold that second click for .5 seconds for max (from on, if starting from off just add a third click). Not a whole lot to memorize and much easier to do one handed than twisting the bezel.
I believe I read that the ReX battery cannot be drained completely. If that happens it needs to be sent back to the distributer for repair / replacement, or there was some other way / trick of kick-starting it that was not too easy.If I may make a slightly off-topic suggestion - you may want to consider Taking a Photon ReX light with you as a backup. It's small, light, variable power and can be worn around your neck or carried just about anyway you like. A Big plus is that you could recharge it from most of the common batteries you might have around.
I believe I read that the ReX battery cannot be drained completely. If that happens it needs to be sent back to the distributer for repair / replacement, or there was some other way / trick of kick-starting it that was not too easy.
Either way I don't think it's the right light for way out in the boonies.
EDIT: Here's the thread I read...
I looked closely at the D10 and L1T, before buying my LF5XT. The D20 is supposed to be shipping at the end of the month if you wanted a 2xAA. It's only 2xAA though, so not as flexible as the Fenix. Fenix has the accessories advantage - body, body cap (use extra as a battery carrier), red lens, and diffusers (without looking for the right bottle cap ).
- I can do everything one handed. D10 can be one handed, except I use momentary a lot, which gets me back to playing bezel games when I want constant on.
- It's the only one of the three that doesn't offer a potential path for water into the light when working the switch. The switch itself doesn't seem to mind being used repeatedly underwater, or in the pressurized stream right out of my shower head. Not that the South African veldt is a rainforest.
- With momentary enabled I have not had it turn on accidentally carried in a pocket with other stuff. Between the logic used in momentary and the relatively protected switch lockout hasn't been an issue to save batteries. You can still lock it out for extra protection or to avoid pocket flashes (although I haven't noticed any).
- It's got it's quirks - pause to on with momentary off, flash of light before on with momentary on. I wouldn't have bought it if I wasn't planning to use momentary.
- Absolutely no issue for me using gloves despite the switch being recessed enough to tail stand.
- The grooves in the body provide decent grip despite the knurling being mostly decorative.
- No 2AA body available. Since it would require the inside battery sleeve as well don't hold your breathe on seeing one.
- If it's on a simple press and hold gets you max. It's the absolute simplest for that sudden oo: "Oh @$#* !!!" moment the way I have mine setup (85% and just barely distiguishable from 100%, momentary on, memory off). I am ALWAYS just a press and hold away from getting bright light. It doesn't matter what I am doing with the light or how I left it the last time I turned it off. A squeeze is the simplest action to execute when adrenaline surges. That setup has also been really useful for the times I am doing something at arms reach on a lower level, and want to just take a quick look further away with more light.
- I didn't find it confusing to program at all. It just took a little patience and attention to detail. I wouldn't suggest my parents who are email challenged buy one though. Since you said you saw it as challenge I'm betting you'll do fine.
All good lights, just with different strengths. Hopefully you get the info you need to make the choice that works for you.
The LF5XT does not require twisting to program, just a number of clicks.
I have the L1D and the D10. Of the two I like the D10 better. It can tail stand, it can be converted to momentary by twisting the tail cap and it has a very low low. Also, you can set any brightness between high and low. Turn it off and it will come back on to that level. It seems just as bright as the Fenix to me and the regulation is good. No 2 AA tube though.