Single AA Nitecore D10 vs Fenix L1D vs LiteFlux LF5XT

[bob4apple]

Oink said : "I was in same shoe just a while back."

Shouldn't that be same boat, or was boat changed to shoe, and I didn't get the memo?!? :scowl:

 

[JBorneu]

I am in the same situation you are in, I will be going away from western civilization for a couple months. I went with the Nitecore Defender Infinity because I like the user interface much, much more than the D10. Especially considering the fact that you're going to Africa, which can be a pretty dangerous place. If you keep the head twisted down when it's in your pocket / holster it will come on on bright, no matter wat you do with it. Turning it on on low is as simple as twisting the head a little bit loose (a tiny turn is enough) and pressing the forward clicky. Back to bright while on: tighten the head and you have bright light. It also has a strobe, which you can acces by turning the light on on high and loosening and tightening the head in less than half a second. Impossible to do accidentially, very easy to do when necessary.

I think the value of being able to turn a light on on the brightest mode whenever you want to, in whatever mode you're in is a big plus when going to possibly dangerous places. In a stressful situation you'll probably forget how many times you need to click to get bright light (I know I do, and I'm extremely good at coping with stress), but turning the head is a gross motoric movement so you'll be able to do it even if you're too stressed to read / think / count clicks. Don't underestimate how "dumb" and "uncapable" extreme stress makes you. Tunnel vision, trembling, unability to speak properly, unability to read, I've experienced it all, and the only thing that saved me (and the people around me) was the fact that I knew how to use a fire extinguisher before the event. Don't ever count on being able to read a manual or think about the operation of a life-saving device, you won't, otherwise you wouldn't need it.

That is why the Nitecore Defender Infinity is my primary EDC light and the light I will take with me wherever I go. A backup or two (three? four?) will also go with me, but the NDI will be on my belt wherever I go because I know I can use it even when I'm too stressed to think properly.

 

[Art Vandelay]

If you use high or turbo most of the time I recommend the Fenix because of the run time. If you use low most of the time and often wish that your flashlight could be dimmer, I'd recommend the D10. I got the D10 and the LF5XT just the other day. The D10 is fantastic. I love how easy and fast it is to increase the brightness.

I'm withholding judgment on the LF5XT, until I can figure out how to program it. I liked it at first, then I tried to change some of the settings. Talk about frustrating! I tried for more than an hour. Not only could I not get the settings changed the way I want, I can't figure out how to get to to just go back to the factory defaults. Now when it's off and click the button, it starts a beacon that flashes every four seconds. That beacon won't stop until I take out the battery. I took the battery out and left it out overnight. I was hoping that it would go back to the factory settings when I put the battery in. No such luck. The beacon is back.

Update:
This thread answered my questions about the LFXT. It has flow charts and simplified instructions.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/202526

 

[LED-holic]

I am in the same situation you are in, I will be going away from western civilization for a couple months. I went with the Nitecore Defender Infinity because I like the user interface much, much more than the D10. Especially considering the fact that you're going to Africa, which can be a pretty dangerous place. If you keep the head twisted down when it's in your pocket / holster it will come on on bright, no matter wat you do with it. Turning it on on low is as simple as twisting the head a little bit loose (a tiny turn is enough) and pressing the forward clicky. Back to bright while on: tighten the head and you have bright light. It also has a strobe, which you can acces by turning the light on on high and loosening and tightening the head in less than half a second. Impossible to do accidentially, very easy to do when necessary.

I think the value of being able to turn a light on on the brightest mode whenever you want to, in whatever mode you're in is a big plus when going to possibly dangerous places. In a stressful situation you'll probably forget how many times you need to click to get bright light (I know I do, and I'm extremely good at coping with stress), but turning the head is a gross motoric movement so you'll be able to do it even if you're too stressed to read / think / count clicks. Don't underestimate how "dumb" and "uncapable" extreme stress makes you. Tunnel vision, trembling, unability to speak properly, unability to read, I've experienced it all, and the only thing that saved me (and the people around me) was the fact that I knew how to use a fire extinguisher before the event. Don't ever count on being able to read a manual or think about the operation of a life-saving device, you won't, otherwise you wouldn't need it.

That is why the Nitecore Defender Infinity is my primary EDC light and the light I will take with me wherever I go. A backup or two (three? four?) will also go with me, but the NDI will be on my belt wherever I go because I know I can use it even when I'm too stressed to think properly.

Interesting, because I HATED the UI on the NDI.

I would often accidentally go into strobe, and have to *slowly* and deliberately get out of strobe. The threads were gritty and quite often cause flicker, even after much lubrication and cleaning. Finally the twisting you mentioned is a huge weakness, because I would much more likely loosen the tailcap accidentally than loosen the bezel.

The clicky also had that loose fragile feel and I was worried about it breaking. Not good if I was going to take a light away from civilization for a long time.

In every way the NDI is far worse than the D10 for use, imho.

 

[superflytnt]

If you use high or turbo most of the time I recommend the Fenix because of the run time. If you use low most of the time and often wish that your flashlight could be dimmer, I'd recommend the D10. I got the D10 and the LF5XT just the other day. The D10 is fantastic. I love how easy and fast it is to increase the brightness.
I'm withholding judgment on the LF5XT, until I can figure out how to program it. I liked it at first, then I tried to change some of the settings. Talk about frustrating! I tried for more than an hour. Not only could I not get the settings changed the way I want, I can't figure out how to get to to just go back to the factory defaults. Now when it's off and click the button, it starts a beacon that flashes every four seconds. That beacon won't stop until I take out the battery. I took the battery out and left it out overnight. I was hoping that it would go back to the factory settings when I put the battery in. No such luck. The beacon is back.[/quote]




Oh man does that bring back memories (only mine went into strobe and not beacon). I agree with you on the ease of the D10, though. The previous poster went with the NDI (unreliable clicky switch IMO) because of the ease of getting high mode. The D10 has exactly two clicking shortcuts. Click twice for min and click twice but hold that second click for .5 seconds for max (from on, if starting from off just add a third click). Not a whole lot to memorize and much easier to do one handed than twisting the bezel.

 

[83Venture]

If I may make a slightly off-topic suggestion - you may want to consider Taking a Photon ReX light with you as a backup. It's small, light, variable power and can be worn around your neck or carried just about anyway you like. A Big plus is that you could recharge it from most of the common batteries you might have around.

 

[LED-holic]

If I may make a slightly off-topic suggestion - you may want to consider Taking a Photon ReX light with you as a backup. It's small, light, variable power and can be worn around your neck or carried just about anyway you like. A Big plus is that you could recharge it from most of the common batteries you might have around.

I believe I read that the ReX battery cannot be drained completely. If that happens it needs to be sent back to the distributer for repair / replacement, or there was some other way / trick of kick-starting it that was not too easy.

Either way I don't think it's the right light for way out in the boonies.

EDIT: Here's the thread I read...

 

[superflytnt]

I believe I read that the ReX battery cannot be drained completely. If that happens it needs to be sent back to the distributer for repair / replacement, or there was some other way / trick of kick-starting it that was not too easy.

Either way I don't think it's the right light for way out in the boonies.

EDIT: Here's the thread I read...

Yeah, I wouldn't trust that light at all. It's more of a fun (and useful) gadget than it is a tool. I WOULD, however, bring along a Photon II (a real one) http://www.photonlight.com/Photon-M...-Flashlights-p/p2-keychain-led-flashlight.htm
and load it with a 2032 battery instead of the stock 2-2016's. I use one of these daily and that 2032 just keeps going and going and it's still right around 6-8 lumens. It is uber reliable and even works underwater (just make sure to open it up and dry it out the next day) and is THE ultimate personal backup light, IMO...........(although a Fenix E01 is really good as well)

Main point, make sure that you take a reliable backup with you!

 

[baterija]

I looked closely at the D10 and L1T, before buying my LF5XT. The D20 is supposed to be shipping at the end of the month if you wanted a 2xAA. It's only 2xAA though, so not as flexible as the Fenix. Fenix has the accessories advantage - body, body cap (use extra as a battery carrier), red lens, and diffusers (without looking for the right bottle cap ).

LF5XT:
- I can do everything one handed. D10 can be one handed, except I use momentary a lot, which gets me back to playing bezel games when I want constant on.
- It's the only one of the three that doesn't offer a potential path for water into the light when working the switch. The switch itself doesn't seem to mind being used repeatedly underwater, or in the pressurized stream right out of my shower head. Not that the South African veldt is a rainforest.
- With momentary enabled I have not had it turn on accidentally carried in a pocket with other stuff. Between the logic used in momentary and the relatively protected switch lockout hasn't been an issue to save batteries. You can still lock it out for extra protection or to avoid pocket flashes (although I haven't noticed any).
- It's got it's quirks - pause to on with momentary off, flash of light before on with momentary on. I wouldn't have bought it if I wasn't planning to use momentary.
- Absolutely no issue for me using gloves despite the switch being recessed enough to tail stand.
- The grooves in the body provide decent grip despite the knurling being mostly decorative.
- No 2AA body available. Since it would require the inside battery sleeve as well don't hold your breathe on seeing one.
- If it's on a simple press and hold gets you max. It's the absolute simplest for that sudden oo: "Oh @$#* !!!" moment the way I have mine setup (85% and just barely distiguishable from 100%, momentary on, memory off). I am ALWAYS just a press and hold away from getting bright light. It doesn't matter what I am doing with the light or how I left it the last time I turned it off. A squeeze is the simplest action to execute when adrenaline surges. That setup has also been really useful for the times I am doing something at arms reach on a lower level, and want to just take a quick look further away with more light.
- I didn't find it confusing to program at all. It just took a little patience and attention to detail. I wouldn't suggest my parents who are email challenged buy one though. Since you said you saw it as challenge I'm betting you'll do fine.

All good lights, just with different strengths. Hopefully you get the info you need to make the choice that works for you.

 

[Oink]

Shouldn't that be same boat, or was boat changed to shoe, and I didn't get the memo?!? :scowl:

Yes, you must have missed the boat on that memo. (or missed the shoe):wave:

 

[BabyDoc]

I looked closely at the D10 and L1T, before buying my LF5XT. The D20 is supposed to be shipping at the end of the month if you wanted a 2xAA. It's only 2xAA though, so not as flexible as the Fenix. Fenix has the accessories advantage - body, body cap (use extra as a battery carrier), red lens, and diffusers (without looking for the right bottle cap ).

LF5XT:
- I can do everything one handed. D10 can be one handed, except I use momentary a lot, which gets me back to playing bezel games when I want constant on.
- It's the only one of the three that doesn't offer a potential path for water into the light when working the switch. The switch itself doesn't seem to mind being used repeatedly underwater, or in the pressurized stream right out of my shower head. Not that the South African veldt is a rainforest.
- With momentary enabled I have not had it turn on accidentally carried in a pocket with other stuff. Between the logic used in momentary and the relatively protected switch lockout hasn't been an issue to save batteries. You can still lock it out for extra protection or to avoid pocket flashes (although I haven't noticed any).
- It's got it's quirks - pause to on with momentary off, flash of light before on with momentary on. I wouldn't have bought it if I wasn't planning to use momentary.
- Absolutely no issue for me using gloves despite the switch being recessed enough to tail stand.
- The grooves in the body provide decent grip despite the knurling being mostly decorative.
- No 2AA body available. Since it would require the inside battery sleeve as well don't hold your breathe on seeing one.
- If it's on a simple press and hold gets you max. It's the absolute simplest for that sudden oo: "Oh @$#* !!!" moment the way I have mine setup (85% and just barely distiguishable from 100%, momentary on, memory off). I am ALWAYS just a press and hold away from getting bright light. It doesn't matter what I am doing with the light or how I left it the last time I turned it off. A squeeze is the simplest action to execute when adrenaline surges. That setup has also been really useful for the times I am doing something at arms reach on a lower level, and want to just take a quick look further away with more light.
- I didn't find it confusing to program at all. It just took a little patience and attention to detail. I wouldn't suggest my parents who are email challenged buy one though. Since you said you saw it as challenge I'm betting you'll do fine.

All good lights, just with different strengths. Hopefully you get the info you need to make the choice that works for you.

1+ Nice Post! I agree completely with you about the LF5xt. I own the D10 GDPLUS, too, and in IMO, there is no comparison. The LF5XT is not the simplist of interfaces to learn, but once learned it becomes simple. The D10 is easier to learn, but in my opinion more difficult to operate. If you don't hold the button down steady enough during ramping, it either turns off, jumps to Max, or to MIN. While with practice you can learn to operate it correctly, I still prefer the LF5XT and its 5 presets that work reliably every time. The delay issue with the LF5XT for me isn't nearly as annoying as the delay with ramping you have with the D10. Sometimes I have to press the button twice to get it to ramp (yes, I know its normal but it is still annoying). Even when pressing it correctly there is a slight delay before it starts to do ramp. Regarding other mentioned problems with the LF5XT tap/off problem has been fixed. There are no problem with its O-rings either, particularly since except for battery changes, you aren't screwing and unscrewing parts often. The light is not slippery because it has indentations that allow you to even cigar hold the light if you like. You can't do that with the D10 even with its aggessive knurling.


Still, if I were going to Africa, where I would be needing a light for outdoor use, I would probably want the L1D or L2D Q5. These lights are reliable and are BRIGHT, much brighter than the LiteFlux or the D10. If the light was going to be used primarily indoors, I would go with the LF5XT because it has a smooth, bright almost flood-like beam (small hotspot and bright spill); indoors you won't be needing the brightest settings often and the lower low will be very useful for conserving your battery life.

 

[Derek Dean]

The LF5XT does not require twisting to program, just a number of clicks.

Ah, you are correct, thanks for catching my error.

I've got to admit, while I still think the L1D would probably be best for wingnutLP's situation (unless a super low low is a deal breaker), the D10 keeps looking like the backup 1xAA I've been looking for to keep my NovaTac 120P company.

As always, you can count on the good folks at CPF to come up with LOTS of good suggestions and discussion about what light would be most suitable for a particular situation. What a great resource we have here!

 

[selfbuilt]

Since a few other contenders have come up ...

The L2D will certainly be brighter, but I personally find the 1xAA size more pocketable for extended travel. Note that my Cree NDIs and D10s are all a bit brighter than my L1D-Q5 on standard batteries (although the difference isn't huge, and not likely relevant in the field).

The NDI is indeed another possibility, as has been raised. I would point out that the regular version (i.e. non-silver) has anodized tailcap threads for lock-out. :thumbsup:

Note also that the LF5XT doesn't completely drain batteries - the light shuts off below ~1V, even with alkalines (and even with low voltage protection turned off). But this can be compensated for by letting the cell recover a bit, then turning back on and switching to a low mode for extended time (see my review of that light for a discussion). It's a great light, but I have some reticence on recommending this one for extended travel -you would need to have the manual with you to reprogram anything but the most basic settings. Of course, if you set them up well to start in the first place, I don't see why you'd need to reprogram in the field.

Personally, I would probably recommend the tried-and-true L1D with a L0D as backup (and as low level light). But the NDI/D10 and LF5XT are certainly excellent 1AA choices as well. Whatever you choose, just make sure you have some sort of backup with you in case of failure.

 

[I came to the light...]

First, I hope you'll forgive me for skipping large parts of this bloated thread before responding (so I may be a bit repetitive)

I just wanted to tell you my experience. I own a LF5XT and an L2D, as well as another nitecore product, although very different from the D10.

The Nitecore has high build quality for the most part, and a nice design. However, two things on my extreme are a bit unnerving (for a $100 flashlight): the clicky is lower quality than that on the $10 Romisen RC-G2, and the clip has come loose once (only once, so it may be a fluke). That being said, I love the output (not tint), body styling (especially the SS ), and UI (although it is different in the D10). I have not bought a D10 because jumping to low mode makes it forget the general mode, so although it is easy to find again, it will always take longer than a light that does not lose it.

The L2D is an amazing all-around light. The UI is, IMHO, the best general-purpose UI I've seen (although there is room for improvement if it is intended as a "tactical" light). efficiency is phenominal (as with almost all fenix lights), and it has never failed me yet. However, you can get brighter single AA flashlights, and the annodizing tends to wear faster than other "HAIIIs". Also, you may be aware that fenix is replacing the L1D with the LD10 shortly, with basically the same characteristics.

The LF5XT is probably my favorite flashlight. The lowest mode could be a tiny bit lower, but is certainly not inconvenient. The beam is the best I've seen from a CREE, and only the second with absolutely no artifacts. Output on high is great, although not top of the line. build quality and annodizing toughness are both the best I've seen (although I can't claim I've seen every competitor). As for the UI, no twists are involved - that was a much older model. It is for the UI that I like this light so much. You can set it up as you wish, but I will tell you how mine is set up just to prove how easy it is. Click on, click off. When on, double click to switch to the other of two modes. At any time, on or off, hold for max until you release. It's that simple . I will admit the various menus are a bit daunting at first, but it only takes a few minutes to learn them. My only issue is a squealing noise on high, but it is not really annoying unless you are accustomed to absolute silence (in which case it is almost painfull :mecry.

Well, there's my opinion. Hope it helps

 

[cave dave]

If you own other lights consider UI incompatability.

After using any one light alot you develope a muscle memory. So lets say you use click-press feature alot to get directly to high on the D10. If you pick up your backup light the LF5XT you are going to strobe someone.

I find this annoying as I own and use Fenix, HDS EDC, D10 and LF5XT.

The LF5XT is actually the easiest to hand to somebody and explain its use. I don't tell then its programable. I just tell them to click twice to get to the next of 3 brightness levels.

 

[gadgetnerd]

I own all three lights so feel qualified to venture some opinions.

L1D pros: great solid build; simple non programmable ui; fantastic regulation; no PWM
L1D cons: low is nowhere near low enough; ringy cree beam; no knurling; reverse clicky (no momentary)

D10 pros: fantastic design esp. piston switch ; looks great; great simple UI; useful knurling; great low; great smooth beam (GDP)
D10 cons: Q5 has cree rings; UI quirks; piston switch does not always engage properly; some inductor whine

LF5XT pros: supremely flexible UI with true tac switch; perfect beam; great build
LF5XT cons: switching delay infuriates some (but not me); learning curve steep when programming (but not for general use); low could be a bit lower; some inductor whine; sharp crenellated bezel may not be to everyone's taste


The bottom line for me: my D10GDP lives in my pocket; my LF5XT lives by my bed for general home use (another one is my bike light); and my L1D lives in my spare torch drawer.

 

[applevision]

There can be only ONE:

NiteCore D10, FTW. I am truly amazed by this little fella. I thought it was a bunch of hype, but there is something special about this light. It's just the right size, shape, texture (knurling), and the UI is simple and to the point. The beam is lovely, the brightness range is perfection, and the beam's tint is a beautiful creamy white.

I have a (relatively small) pile of flashlights and I have never been so blantantly a flashaholic to carry them around my house at night like so many report here on CPF welcome... UNTIL NOW. Yep, damn fool that I am, I walk around my house each night using my NiteCore D10. And you know what? I love it. :twothumbs

So, if I had one light to bring to Africa, which would I bring? My Surefire, my Pelican 7060, my beloved Fenix TK11... nope, nope and nooope... I'd bring my little buddy NiteCore D10.:thumbsup:

 

[cal..45]

I have the L1D and the D10. Of the two I like the D10 better. It can tail stand, it can be converted to momentary by twisting the tail cap and it has a very low low. Also, you can set any brightness between high and low. Turn it off and it will come back on to that level. It seems just as bright as the Fenix to me and the regulation is good. No 2 AA tube though.

+1 to that.

the L1D is a very good light but the D10 is an outstanding good light. regarding lightoutput it does almost everything better than the fenix, but is significant shorter, got better grip and an absolute killer UI - best EDC I've ever had, hands down.


regards, holger

 

[LightWalker]

I prefer my D10 over my L1D but the D10 requires more lube for the piston.

One advantage of the L1D is the ability to use the P2D body tube with the head for CR123 batteries.

 

[JBorneu]

If you can wait untill the end of the month, the new Fenix LD10 (new version of the L1D) is coming out. It has the runtime, brightness and tailstanding capabilities of the Nitecore D10, it has an anti-roll bezel and it has the user interface of the Fenix L1D. On the other hand, taking a new (untested, unproven) light with you might not be the smartest choice when you're going to Africa for a year.