single AAA & AA LED light

[Success]

May I know what is the recommended LED light now for

single AAA

single AA

?

Thanks. I want to get one as a general purpose travel/backpacking/survival/emergency light.

 

[Dual]

My recommendations are the 4Sevens Preon Revo for AAA and the Zebralight SC51 for AA.

 

[Success]

Thank you.

I think I'm going for AA. How about H51w?

 

[jorn]

The quark mini aa can run on both aa and aaa. It will have major battery rattle when running a aaa, but if in a pinch, it would be all good. 🙂

 

[wellu]

What do you recommend for as small as possible AAA clicky switch light? Preon with clicky tail? Anything else?

 

[think2x]

How about H51w?

Great choice IMO.

I especially like how it steps down in brightness as the battery dies instead of shutting off.

 

[Russ Prechtl]

+1 to what Dual said. I would also add the DST TLR Ti in AA and Maratac, Preon 1 with clicky, or n-Light B3 in AAA.

 

[Paolos]

AAA - The new iTP A3 EOS upgraded is a fantastic light. Mine arrived yesterday. 96 lumens on high, yet it's tiny! Yeah, it's a twisty, but you can pick one up for under $20.

For an AA, I use a Fenix Ld10 R5. Bright, easy to use, and great run times. Love it.

 

[srfreddy]

The preon 1 and the yet to be released are the only currently availible 1AAA clickies from a good brand. (I think)

 

[Devoid]

Wow that Preon Revo is very nice looking.

I ordered a Fenix E05 R2 last night which is also a single AAA flashlight, but that Preon is in a whole different class. I think that just made it onto my wishlist.

 

[Nicrod]

+1 on itp a3 eos nice little light !
I also really dig the preons 1 but only with a clicky
Another really fantastic light for cheap is the streamlight mini styluspro.(15.00)
Comes with a pocket clip
I can't believe were getting almost a hundred lumens from aaa's.

 

[hyperloop]

I haven't logged on for a long time, but for a AAA light, i'd stick to my old faithful Fenix E01, it's been more than 3 years since I got it and it's still on it's first Energizer AAA, I use it sporadically, usually at night looking for stuff in the bedroom, heading to the toilet, bring it fishing too (but as a backup as i am usually using my H501).

My EDC light is a Lummi Raw NS (with a Surefire G2 with an R5 drop in + 2 sets of spare cells) which will be replaced with my Quark NW MiNi 123 when it gets back after many months at 4sevens being repaired.

For an AA light, i have more or less stopped carrying them as I prefer a smaller packaged light in my pocket, use the tecaccessories P7 suspension clip so it doesnt cause noticeable pocket bulge.

 

[Nicrod]

I haven't logged on for a long time, but for a AAA light, i'd stick to my old faithful Fenix E01, it's been more than 3 years since I got it and it's still on it's first Energizer AAA, I use it sporadically, usually at night looking for stuff in the bedroom, heading to the toilet, bring it fishing too (but as a backup as i am usually using my H501).

My EDC light is a Lummi Raw NS (with a Surefire G2 with an R5 drop in + 2 sets of spare cells) which will be replaced with my Quark NW MiNi 123 when it gets back after many months at 4sevens being repaired.

For an AA light, i have more or less stopped carrying them as I prefer a smaller packaged light in my pocket, use the tecaccessories P7 suspension clip so it doesnt cause noticeable pocket bulge.

Hello. And welcome back. Wow 3 years on the same battery is amazing.
Can I ask why the 123 is being fixed?

 

[hyperloop]

Hello. And welcome back. Wow 3 years on the same battery is amazing.
Can I ask why the 123 is being fixed?

Well, it simply stopped working one day which i found surprising as its a twisty light and there shouldnt be switch problems, i cleaned all contacts, replaced cells (using rechargeable 16340s) and even tried primaries but to no avail, my only conclusion is that either it was a driver failure or an LED failure (which was also surprising), in any event, the email I got from 4sevens was that it was taking a while cos my emitter was a neutral white one, so it was taking longer to source which means it should be an LED failure of some sort.

it's on its way back now, yay! Back to EDC-ing my MiNi123 (alternate is my EX10 or Raw NS, though I prefer CR123 sizes as it's easier to carry spares)

 

[srfreddy]

You probably fried the emmiter running RCR's, but I do to, so no worries. 🙂

 

[Outdoorsman5]

For AA I'd recommend the Quark AA with either the Regular UI (where you cycle through each setting) or the Tactical UI (where you program the two settings - head tight & head loose.) Both are great, and both can run on a Li-ion 14500 rechargeble producing 200 lumens....nice. You can also get a "deep carry" pocket clip...sold seperately at 4sevens. This light replaced my zebralight SC30 as my EDC. I love my zebralights, but got tired of having to carry it in the locked out position because it kept getting accidently switched on in my pocket. Still use my ZL's regulary though...just not as an EDC. The quark has never been accidently switched on in my pocket.

 

[Gregozedobe]

What do you recommend for as small as possible AAA clicky switch light? Preon with clicky tail? Anything else?

Liteflux LF2XT, but you will need to place a WTB ad over at CPF Marketplace, as they aren't currently available new.

 

[Nicrod]

You probably fried the emmiter running RCR's, but I do to, so no worries. 🙂

Why would running rcr fry the emitter?

 

[srfreddy]

They go into mega turbo boosty mode (direct drive) which is really bad for the emmiter, as the heatsink on the Minis is tiny, and heat transfer is pretty crappy.

 

[Nicrod]

They go into mega turbo boosty mode (direct drive) which is really bad for the emmiter, as the heatsink on the Minis is tiny, and heat transfer is pretty crappy.

Ok that makes sense. So is this limited to smaller lights only?
I don't have to worry about running rcr's in my quark 123^2?
thanks for ur input.