SL20X issues

[dw51]

Here's the scoop. I'm open to any and all suggestions.

I have an older SL-20X in my patrol car. It has always had a yellowish beam. I know this seems to be the norm, but it seems dimmer than it should be. I've replaced the battery stick with a stock replacement. I've also installed an SL-35X lamp assembly. No change. Could I have a resistance issue somewhere (switch)? Or is this just the nature of the beast. I would think that this light should be in the neighborhood, output wise, as the Magcharger. It doesn't even come close in comparison.

Any help, if there is any, please. Thanks in advance.

BTW, this is a department owned light and I've already spent my own money on the lamp assembly and a dimmer tailcap. I'd rather not spend much as it is my backup to my Ultrastinger anyway.

 

[Brighteyez]

That last paragraph was kind of the clincher. It's a department light and you're spending your own money on repairs?! Ouch!

I don't know what your usage is, the SL20 assembly is usually pretty bright in urban settings. The output is yellowish if you compare it to an LED light, due to the lower color temperature of the halogen bulb. But if the light is considerably dimmer than that of your colleagues, and you've already replaced both the battery and the lamp assembly, the problem is most likely in the switch assembly. And the switch assembly is covered under warranty, whoever works on the equipment in your department should be able to get that fixed for you though the closest Streamlight warranty station. I hope you did keep the old battery and lamp assembly as that would be what I would put into that light when it is sent off for repairs.

I just noticed that you said that you had installed a dimmer cap. Have you tried putting the original tailcap back on to see if it is the dimmer cap that may be adding the resistance into the circuit? If you don't have the original tailcap, try removing the dimmer cap and completing the circuit with a piece of metal between the body of the light and the negative pole of the battery stick and then activating the switch.

EDIT Just notice the UltraStinger part. I've only fooled around with one of those once (it belonged to someone else) but I seem to recall that the two lights were pretty similar in output, with the UltraStinger focusing more of it's output into the spot. So that could be used as a reference point for the SL20 output as well.

Here's the scoop. I'm open to any and all suggestions.

I have an older SL-20X in my patrol car. It has always had a yellowish beam. I know this seems to be the norm, but it seems dimmer than it should be. I've replaced the battery stick with a stock replacement. I've also installed an SL-35X lamp assembly. No change. Could I have a resistance issue somewhere (switch)? Or is this just the nature of the beast. I would think that this light should be in the neighborhood, output wise, as the Magcharger. It doesn't even come close in comparison.

Any help, if there is any, please. Thanks in advance.

BTW, this is a department owned light and I've already spent my own money on the lamp assembly and a dimmer tailcap. I'd rather not spend much as it is my backup to my Ultrastinger anyway.

 

[dw51]

First off, I plan to remove all parts I've purchased if I ever take a different job, so it doesn't really bother me to spend some money on reversible upgrades. The only upgrades I've done to the light are dimmer tailcap, SL35 lamp, and UCL lense (which I just happened to have lying around).

Second, this problem occurred before adding the dimmer cap as well.

Third, my Ultrastinger is way brighter (75,000cp stock. Now has WA1111, so has ?cp) than I expect the SL20X to be so it really isn't a fair comparison. I am comparing to my personal Magcharger and the MC is way brighter.

I'm leaning either on excessive resistance in the switch or crappy battery pack. Strangely, I kind of like his light, but just think it should be a little brighter. Thanks for the comments so far and I'm open to any others.

 

[EvilPaul2112]

Ive always found my SL20x to be as bright as the Magcharger. There are only a limited amount of parts on the light......the sleeve, the switch, the lamp, the battery,and the tailcap....thats it......Id start by replacing the switch.....if its still yellow I dont know what to tell you....The only things Ive ever replaced are lamps and batteries....

 

[Ginseng]

I don't believe the SL-20X is as white as the stock MagCharger but I could be wrong. In terms of of output, they're close to the best of my recollection. My bedside light is an ancient SL-15X and I've had to do work on the switch assembly. Luckily I was able to acquire a bunch of switch replacements for about a buck a piece.

I use a 3700mAh nimh pack in my SL-15X and although it runs long, doesn't run much whiter than a stock stick.

There really aren't many points where contact resistance can pop up. The contact spring, the bulb pin sockets, and the switch itself are all that I can think of. If you can rule out the first two, then it must be the last. Luckily, replacing the switch is a pretty easy operation.

The other possibility is that your charger may be malfunctioning. Have you done a full pack discharge to see if you get the rated runtime? If not, then you either have a bad cell or the charger or electronics in the switch are not giving you a full charge.

Wilkey

 

[js]

Ginseng! Ginseng! Ginseng!

A Ginseng post! Hey there! How are you?

For those who don't know, Ginseng is one of the pioneers of mag mods, and the creator of the first 100 watt mag mod, and the brains behind the Tiger85 (and all the TL upgrades, actually).

:bow: :bow: :bow:

Do a search on "Ginseng" with the "threads started by" radial button selected to see the legacy, the oeuvre of the INCAN MASTER!

 

[Ginseng]

Ok,

Now the pressure is on to refresh those posts.

Thanks a lot, Jim.

Wilkey

 

[js]

Oops!!!

Sorry. Better get cracking. :devil:

 

[bwaites]

WILKEY....The KING returns!!!

Welcome back to the land of the enlightened!!

Bill

 

[NCSO911]

If you think there is a switch problen, they (the switch) are guaranteed for life.
All you have to do is ship it to Streamlight or find a Batteries Plus. Most of them service Streamlight now.

 

[Ginseng]

If you think there is a switch problen, they (the switch) are guaranteed for life.
All you have to do is ship it to Streamlight or find a Batteries Plus. Most of them service Streamlight now.

Oh heck, where's the fun in sending in a borken light and getting a working unit back?

j/k That's why my EDC is a SureFire.

Hey Bill!

Wilkey

 

[dw51]

Is there a source for replacement SL switches? I would think it would almost be easier to pay for a switch, then have to send the whole thing in.

Or, does anyone know the inner workings of the SL switches? I've had Mag switches apart, but never the SL.

 

[dw51]

I believe the problem is resolved. I noticed that if I moved the ground wire just right near the ring connector, that the light would quit. I replaced the ring connector and added a little solder for insurance and now the light seems to be much whiter. Now if I can fix the flasher tailcap I'll be happy. I think I'm going to have to break down and contact Streamlight since everything else I've tried has failed.

Thanks to everyone for their advice.