Small Batch of Tri-EDC's

Lame attempt at outdoor beamshots... Haiku XP-G, Ti EDC warm, Tri-EDC warm... Point and shoot, set to night scenery mode. Front of shed 30 yds. Front corner of fence 42 yds. Back corner of fence on right 49 yds. as per my Bushnell laser rangefinder... Tri-EDC is just one big honkin' wall of light.🙂

P1010343.jpg


P1010344.jpg


P1010346.jpg
 
scout24 said:
Lame attempt at outdoor beamshots... Haiku XP-G, Ti EDC warm, Tri-EDC warm... Point and shoot, set to night scenery mode. Front of shed 30 yds. Front corner of fence 42 yds. Back corner of fence on right 49 yds. as per my Bushnell laser rangefinder... Tri-EDC is just one big honkin' wall of light.🙂
Click to expand...

NOTHING LAME about those shots!! Great job, Greg! I have only problem with them - now I simply must have a Tri EDC with warm tint.

Fantastic - thanks for posting! MORE MORE MORE! :twothumbs:twothumbs
 
Is it just the pics or does the EDC look like it thros farther and seems brighter at longer distanes?

I am almost thinking it would be easier for me to order the EDC on the web site but am torn because the tri EDC has to be brighter in person. Is there any pros and cons vs the two i should consider?

Ps thank you so much for the beam shots 🙂
 
You twisted my arm, Dan... Archery target is 30yds, treeline is 35. More accurate representation of the beam pattern. Quark 1x123 R5, Ti SST-50 EDC warm, Tri-EDC warm. :devil: Sorry for a bit of smoke from the neighbor's woodstove...😗

P1010347.jpg


P1010348.jpg



P1010349.jpg
 
scout24 said:
Lame attempt at outdoor beamshots... Haiku XP-G, Ti EDC warm, Tri-EDC warm... Point and shoot, set to night scenery mode. Front of shed 30 yds. Front corner of fence 42 yds. Back corner of fence on right 49 yds. as per my Bushnell laser rangefinder... Tri-EDC is just one big honkin' wall of light.🙂





Your not kidding! 😱 Thanks for the great photos and comparison shots. Turns out, that thing packs a mean wallop!
Click to expand...
 
:wow:

Great job Greg! Darn - I'm totally convinced. I need one (or two) of those!!

Greg, your beam shots are terrific. You have a great area to photograph them, and your exposures are perfect. Great job!:party:
 
scout24 said:
Lame attempt at outdoor beamshots... Haiku XP-G, Ti EDC warm, Tri-EDC warm... Point and shoot, set to night scenery mode.
Click to expand...
Nice, but are you sure the last one is the tri-EDC ?
The more defined round spill on the 3rd picture looks more to the beam of an SST-50 EDC and the more floody and less defined spill on the 2nd picture looks more to a tri-emitter's beam.
In an other hand, there is no (SST-50) hotspot on the third picture. :thinking:
 
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Those pics show the wall of light a bit better. Looks like the tri edc is the newest best right now. Throw seems to be the same with the tri having a more defined ball of light and seems more intense at the close distances.

What were your thoughts and reason for warm vs cool?
 
SST-50 has a bit more pronounced hotspot with a bunch of spill, Tri-EDC has almost the same intensity, but the "hotspot" is HUGE, with much less spill. It doesn't need it, though... Output is BIG.🙂 Remember, the cool tints on either light are a bit brighter, and we're comparing SST-50's to XP-G's.
 
:drool: Wow, that thing is bright! Thanks so very much for the great beamshot comparisons.

I got the shipping notice for mine yesterday. :rock:
 
I am learning more about batteries and such and just realized that the cell required for this light has less then 1/2 the capacity of a regular cr123 cell.

So how long can this light possibly run on this battery on high?
 
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ntalbot- High, med., low with no memory. Always comes on in high mode. When I need low, I'll cup it in my hand and blip through until I get there, then click to latch onto that level. Brian1911- Mac would be the man to answer that one, but I regularly swap cells if I've run more than 10 minutes on high during the day. Recharge and swap at night. Med is still killer, and sees quite a bit of use. Even at work, 15-30 seconds at a clip on high, then maybe a full minute to get my dog down the steps into the back yard at night is typical for me. I carry two IMR's to work in a match case with a bit of padding in each end, but haven't needed to swap during the day yet. A backup light in case it runs out of juice would be prudent, but med. and low are so useful, high becomes a show off or "Hey, what was that?" level. If I need 600-700 lumens for more than a minute or two, I'll grab my Mac's Mag with his 3 level SST-50 dropin. 🙂 This light just disappears in your pocket, shorter and lighter than the SST-50 EDC. :hitit: Ya wanna play here, (This small and this bright, flawlessly made...) you gotta pay. One of those areas is runtime on high...
 
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Thanks for taking the time to explain the UI.
Is it a forward clicky, or reverse? If it's a reverse clicky, when it is on, can you half press to change modes, like a Fenix?
Thanks again,
Neil
 
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scout24 said:
High, med., low with no memory.
Click to expand...
:mecry:

This type of UI is "better" (IMO) with a forward clicky.
To select the low, 3 half press. The 3th half-press need to be completely press and release to have the continuous (not momentary) low.
Two half-press for the med.
But before accessing the low, there is a high and med flash. 😱

Don't know which version Mac got for the tri-EDC but:
"The mode control function is implemented in L33.2MC board
and provides simple yet flexible interface to manage the
luminous output and signaling modes (strobe and emergency
signals). The MC version features two different mode-control
interfaces, which require minimum or even no external
components or wiring.
A simple power-interrupt switch is used to toggle between
100%, 20% and 2% preset levels. The wiring diagram is
shown on pic.2. The switch SW1 should be rated for
maximum input current of L33.2 module. When disconnected
from the battery, the module retains the last active mode in a
transient memory during 5-7 seconds. A longer power outage
interval fully resets the module and it starts again with initial
100% (full output) mode.
More options are available when an external momentary clickbutton
is connected between the BTN and Ground (Negative)
pins (pic.3). By a short single-click the module toggles
between full output (100%) and adjustable ECO mode. The
soft switching simulates halogen lamp inertia for easier eyes
accommodation. By default the ECO is set at 20%. Holding the
button in ECO mode for 2 seconds enables the ECO
adjustment mode in which any level between zero and 50%
can be programmed. Holding the button in full-output mode
enables strobe and emergency signals selection menu".
http://www.lux-rc.com/content/showcase/light_engines/L332PCB-EN-160710.pdf
 
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No way this is great for tactical use. I would hate to yank my gun and light out to have the light go to low mode, lol. Coming on to high every time is for me the best choice.
 
I agree. I have a couple of lights with similar UI except they have memory of last mode used. I am always wondering when I turn them on "Is that medium or high?". Low is pretty obvious, but if it's one of the other two, I always end up scrolling thru all the levels to make sure I have it set to what I want.

Brian1911 said:
No way this is great for tactical use. I would hate to yank my gun and light out to have the light go to low mode, lol. Coming on to high every time is for me the best choice.
Click to expand...
 
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