So, how do you change that little bulb thingy?

[D-Dog]

Just kidding (Please repost in correct forum if this is not it because although this deals with modding, I would really like the input of some LED members here)

Anyways, I would like to replace the emitter on my 2 year old Jil Intelli from a Lux III TWOH to something a little more up to date (early Christmas gift because I can't afford anything new and although the M20 will probably replace it, I would rather not let a light I used for over 2 years just start collecting dust). That leads me to my first question:

*Where is the best place to purchase good quality (not Chinese ripoff) LEDs, knowing I am only going to buy one or two, not 100. Is the marketplace the best place to start and if so are there any sellers who really stand out?

Alright, now lets assume I receive the LED from a seller (I just need the star itself right because I already have the heatsink and driver?).

I am now going to pretend the light is a fenix or any other multi-level light because not too many people have ever heard of the Intelli

Please tell me if my steps are right concerning how to replace the LED

I open the head up and remove the circuity including the heatsinked emitter. I then proceed to desolder the leads on the LED and use something sharp and pointy like an exacto to pop it off the heatsined slab. I then clean the srface of residual goo and apply a thin layer of Arctic Silver 5. I then push the new emitter onto the goop and solder the leads making sure of polarity, etc. Make sure it is centered and screw the head back on.

Now comes the question of what LED to choose. If you were modding a Fenix or another multi-level light most people would suggest a Q5 or R2 right? However, the Lux III footprint is a little smaller so perhaps a Rebel 100? What do you guys think?

Finally, how hard is it to open a headd that is sealed with locktight or something of the like without damaging the light?

 

[cdosrun]

Hello D-Dog,

I think you should be looking at replacing the Luxeon LED with a Seoul, they have similar radiation patterns, by popping a Cree in instead, you will end up with much less spot and a poorer beam. I think you will also need to shim the Seoul LED slightly to bring it into the same point of focus as the Lux.

The Sandwich Shoppe is probably a good place to start looking for your parts http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php

In principle, I think your description is correct but if you do go with the Seoul, you must remember that the thermal contact on the LED is electrically connected to the anode and will need insulating.

You will need to pop off the old LED and then using thermal epoxy, glue your shim down onto the heatsink. Then, apply an extremely thin layer of thermal epoxy to the thermal contact on the LED and allow it to set (to form an insulating layer) before finally setting the LED in place with more thermally-conductive epoxy. I think that is about it but someone is bound to chime in with actual experience of the mod.

Andrew

 

[D-Dog]

Ok, the seoul makes a lot more sense... it even looks like the LuxxIII a lot more I went back through the threads and found where goldserve was offering the upgrade last year before he moved because the upgrade evidently involves cutting the reflector a little bit too to be able to fit the new LED.

How much easier is it to upgrade a Cree to Cree vs a Lux to Cree or Lux to Seoul? I am just trying to figure out what I am getting myself into here as although I'm not bad with electronics, I don't want to have to worry about too much. I presume a cree to cree woudl be the simpliest because all you would have to do is solder the leads and epoxy the die down? Whereas installing a seoul evidently has more steps...

 

[Gunner12]

It should just be two solder spots and some thermal compound and the swap should be done. Since all the mentioned LEDs have similar forward voltage, it's just a swap of the LED which is the negative and positive contact, and the heat transfer(thermal compound). Just be careful of the Seoul's positive bottom, it can cause shorts if the heatsink is not isolated.

 

[D-Dog]

It should just be two solder spots and some thermal compound and the swap should be done. Since all the mentioned LEDs have similar forward voltage, it's just a swap of the LED which is the negative and positive contact, and the heat transfer(thermal compound). Just be careful of the Seoul's positive bottom, it can cause shorts if the heatsink is not isolated.

What are your personal favorites for thermal compounds?

 

[cdosrun]

D-Dog,

You are right, Cree-Cree swaps are the easiest (and the ones that I have done), the others will take a little more playing around and care but have been done by quite a few people here. If you have the equipment, time and patience, I am sure you will be fine.

Measure twice, cut once and ask for help before you go too far (especially with reflectors and things).

Andrew

 

[D-Dog]

Ok, while I'm at it I also have an old L2D- CE laying around with I think a P4 which I forgot I got about a year and a half ago (my dad had it in his computer room "using" it) This would be a cree to cree so it should be really easy, however, what would be the best emitter available right now to put inside as I want it to last for a while and I know Q5's have been out since last year. An R2? or is there something even newer?

However, even for this I wiould need some sort of heat transfer compund (I only have arctic silver 5). What would you recommend? I would like to mod it and give it to my brother for Christmas because he has only cheap 2 aa incans and goes on Boy Scout camping trips at least once a month.

 

[cdosrun]

The L2D was my first swap, P4 to Q5. I used Arctic Silver epoxy but Arctic Alumina is much the same, and cheaper. The Sandwich Shoppe I linked earlier sells all these components, as does 4Sevens.

Andrew

 

[datiLED]

The Sandwich Shoppe is a good one-stop shop for mod parts. They have Arctic Alumina (AA), which is recommended for installing Seoul LED, as it is completely non-conductive and non-capacitive. Buy a few 0.030" copper shims while you are at it. PhotonFanatic is another good source for LED's and AA.

You could simply swap the Seoul LED for the Luxeon, but you will have a light that is floodier than the original due to a slight change in focus of the LED in the reflector. To achieve the optimum focus, you will need to raise the Seoul LED by 0.030", and remove 0.030" from the back of the reflector. This can be done by using a copper shim under the LED, and removing material from the back of the reflector. By isolating the copper shim with the AA, you will prevent shots between the base of the Seoul LED and ground. The Seoul LED has the anode connected to the base. If you short it to ground...

I always scribe a thin circle around the original LED before I remove it using a dental tool, or needle to give me a guideline for installing the copper shim and Seoul LED. Remember to keep the AA as thin as possible, without pressing out too much. You are using it to adhere the parts, and provide isolation. Always allow the AA to fully cure before soldering. Heat softens it. Test all of your connections, and check for continuity between parts at each step.

To remove the material from the reflector, use a fine file. Measure the height of the reflector (in inches), and write the number down. Subtract the 0.030" from that number, and write that number down. Now file the material away until you reach the desired height. Lay the file on a flat surface, and pass the base of the reflector over the file. Rotate it with each pass, or two to cut the reflector evenly. Use a wooden dowel, or chopstick to clean any burrs away from the reflector opening, and blow away any dust with compressed air.

Give all of the parts a cleaning before assembly, and make sure to wash your hands or wear latex gloves to avoid any finger oils on the parts. Once it is together, fire it up! Enjoy the brightness, and then look for something else to mod. Most of all, have fun.