Solarforce L2 impressions (Cree R2 5-mode)

I put one of these UCL lenses in all my L2's (10 in all) save 3. One is the special all stainless one, and it seems that this light does not have a standard L2 lens. It is quite a bit thinner than stock and the 1.85 thick UCL lens is almost a third thicker. The shiny crenellated bezel will not screw down fully, so I had to forgo a UCL in that one. Its a showpiece anyway.

My other 2 holdouts are a trickier problem These two have the stainless strike bezel ring. Unlike the aluminum ones which unscrewed easily, and the flat stainless rings, for which my little tool unscrewed easily, the SS strike bezels are both frozen fast as if epoxied in. Has anyone had any success in unscrewing these bezels without doing damage? Chucking it in a vice and having at it with a pipe wrench are clearly not viable options!
The lens will fit if you file the back of the crenulated bezel and or use a thinner O ring than the original.
To remove your bezel try an old piece of carpet, with just the head in your hands try pushing the bezel into the pile hard and give it a sharp twist.
Norm
 
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I put in an order for a lens as well from KD. Seems like a cheap way to get some more output even if not that noticeable plus I have a backup lens.

How is KD's customer service? I sent an email to them and have yet to hear back from them and am worried they are going to send my order to the wrong address.

KD is is good ... They do have problems responding to emails though ..

Bit of a hit and miss with corespondance ...

Also the descriptions are a little lacking on certain items ...
😳
 
I am trying KD now, I have a couple things on order. Don't even ask me about DX.
 
The lens will fit if you file the back of the crenulated bezel and or use a thinner O ring than the original.
To remove your bezel try an old piece of carpet, with just the head in your hands try pushing the bezel into the pile hard and give it a sharp twist.
Norm

Norm, the L2 bezel ring does not have an o-ring. It has a rubber retainer ring that the lens sits in. It looks like a bottle cap without a center. The glass sits in it and the rubber wraps around the side walls. The bottom of the rubber is needed to cushion the glass because it sits on a metal rim and then a fiber washer goes over it and clamps the lens and retainer down as you tighten the bezel ring. With this setup, the lens thickness is a critical factor and it means that no UCL is available that is thin enough. I don't mind though. As I said, this is only on the one-off special all stainless serial numbered edition I have. The standard L2's have a thicker lens, about equal to the 1.85mm thick UCL thickness.

It is my two standard L2's with SS strike bezel rings that are stuck fast. I'll give your carpet idea a try. I need to find the right piece now! Plan B is to just order two new complete bezel assemblies with regular retainer rings in place of the strike bezel rings and put the UCL glass in those. I can keep the pointy ones for the coming collapse to repel Klingons. They are liable to get all bloodied then, so who needs a UCL!

Mike
 
I've just ordered 5 of the KD lenses to try.
I've installed a couple of the 28.8 lenses from FlashlightLens.com. I had to grind them down to 28. Used a diamond file on one and a band sander on the other.
I'll have to compare them to the KD lenses when they arrive.

The UCL's I bought from Flashlightlens.com are the 26.8 x 1.85mm size, and they will fit the L2 without modification. They are a bit looser in the retainer cup than standard, but not a problem. Just center the lens and tighten the ring. The rubber retainer flange is wide enough to absorb the slightly looser fit as these are ever so slightly smaller in diameter than standard. Thickness is perfect though.
 
Norm, the L2 bezel ring does not have an o-ring. It has a rubber retainer ring that the lens sits in. It looks like a bottle cap without a center. The glass sits in it and the rubber wraps around the side walls. The bottom of the rubber is needed to cushion the glass because it sits on a metal rim and then a fiber washer goes over it and clamps the lens and retainer down as you tighten the bezel ring. With this setup, the lens thickness is a critical factor and it means that no UCL is available that is thin enough. I don't mind though. As I said, this is only on the one-off special all stainless serial numbered edition I have. The standard L2's have a thicker lens, about equal to the 1.85mm thick UCL thickness.
Hi Mike I have the same light with the KD lens installed, I'm using a red O ring (silicone I think) and the plastic ring (I like the look of the red O ring), I removed about .3mm from the back of the bezel, there is enough there to remove .5mm and you will be able to use the original black ring. The lens was centered and doesn't touch the edges at all. Also took the sharp edges off the bezel.

redob.jpg
red2o.jpg

Norm
 
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Howdy
This is my first post on CPF! lovecpf
I just bought a Solarforce L2 with the Cree R2 drop in (single mode)
off of ebay yesterday.. :twothumbs
I can't wait until I get it, I was wondering how much throw these lights have.. Also has anyone here bought off of ITC on ebay, if so how long did it take you to get your product? (Again I can't wait LOL)
I am somewhat new to the world of flashlights, but I find it all awesome! :thumbsup:

-Roberts
 
I thought that the heads on the L2 and L2M were the same.

The lenses in both of my Solarforce L2 (not L2M) were 28.02mm x 2.03mm.

The tailcap on the light you bought is not a Solarforce tailcap, so it's possible the head isn't either.

The lens measurement you posted is closer to the lens size of my Spiderfire X-03, which was 28.98mm x 1.86mm.
 
I'm new to the forums and want to purchase my first "tactical" flashight and am intrested in the Solarforce L2 impressions (Cree R2 5-mode) . ng visited the Solarfore store site I am confused as to which light is the Solarforce L2 with 5 mode. The closest I find is their Ultrafire 503B-R2M, after seeing a review earlier in this thread these did not have as" crisp threads" ect.
I guess I'm asking where to purchase the Solarforce L2- 5 mode at the best price ( non-Ebay ). Links appreciated.
Great site and I will continue to follow this thread. Thanks in advance.- Bill
 
sbflashlights.com

I guess I'm asking where to purchase the Solarforce L2- 5 mode at the best price ( non-Ebay ). Links appreciated.
Great site and I will continue to follow this thread. Thanks in advance.- Bill
 
My other 2 holdouts are a trickier problem These two have the stainless strike bezel ring. Unlike the aluminum ones which unscrewed easily, and the flat stainless rings, for which my little tool unscrewed easily, the SS strike bezels are both frozen fast as if epoxied in. Has anyone had any success in unscrewing these bezels without doing damage? Chucking it in a vice and having at it with a pipe wrench are clearly not viable options!

Same problem here, tried carpet idea with no luck. Placing it in a vice then twisting with channel lock or vice grip pliers may be the only way to get it to budge. But then it would be so mutilated there would be no point, might be easier just to buy a new SF head.
 
Thanks rge58,
icon14.gif

I'm such a kid; I couldn't wait and ordered one from Jim@Solarforce-usa. I ordered the Solarforce L2, 5 Mode Cree R2 LED, 4.2V - 8.4V, and two CR123A Batteries. I spoke to him by phone first and he walked me through (I am a neophyte) then ordered from his website. ....maybe this will tide me over until I can justify a EagleTac T20C2 or maybe a OlightM21.....
 
I'm new to the forums and want to purchase my first "tactical" flashight and am intrested in the Solarforce L2 impressions (Cree R2 5-mode) . ng visited the Solarfore store site I am confused as to which light is the Solarforce L2 with 5 mode. The closest I find is their Ultrafire 503B-R2M, after seeing a review earlier in this thread these did not have as" crisp threads" ect.
I guess I'm asking where to purchase the Solarforce L2- 5 mode at the best price ( non-Ebay ). Links appreciated.
Great site and I will continue to follow this thread. Thanks in advance.- Bill

Solarforce store no longer sell solarforce .

Try Ebay .
 
Same problem here, tried carpet idea with no luck. Placing it in a vice then twisting with channel lock or vice grip pliers may be the only way to get it to budge. But then it would be so mutilated there would be no point, might be easier just to buy a new SF head.
Try wiping it with alcohol then use the bottom of your mouse pad ( flat rubber sheet ) to grip with. They used to sell flat rubber sheets like clothes to remove jar lids.... I use these to remove stuck filters on camera lenes. Hope this helps.
 
Try placing the head , window down in boiling hot water for a cpl minutes. Thend repeat again with more boiling water, just about 1/4" enough to submerse the ring in. Then dry it off and give it a go on the mous bad again. If its some form of loctite that should help loosen its grip . It worked for me in multiple situations
 
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