Solarforce L2 / L2P forward clicky.

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Here's my perspective...

As a manufacturer, I'd be very cautious about investing much in a solution dependent upon using existing Solarforce or other budget Chinese parts with a specific (modified) McClicky kit. I've got a number of L2 variants, including L2Ps. Knurling, assembly parts, and to some extent dimensions, vary with different production batches. It could be a customer service boondoggle if a significant proportion of customers turn out to have "out of spec" host parts.

I also question the need for a McClicky in most applications based on budget hosts, which are often available as a complete host (or even complete light) for less than the cost of a standard McClicky kit from Oveready. Yes, some folks will use the hosts for high-output light engines, but many of those folks will be prepared to be a little more ingenious than buying off the shelf solutions. Some enterprising individual members may be willing to assist with low-volume custom switch work, if needed.

What may be practical, for Oveready, or other volume sellers to offer, is a few low-cost washers and boots in various dimensions that would work as add-ons with the existing McClicky kit. The versatility and usefulness with many different manufacturer's lights would be beneficial to a greater audience and the risks fewer. Materials can be chosen for function and value - e.g. it may not make sense to do custom parts in brass etc.

If the qualities of the McClicky exceed the requirements for a specific application, then modifying existing tailcaps for forward operation, or supplying replacement switch assemblies based on the available switches used by other Chinese manufacturers, as Kostas has done :wave:, is a more cost effective solution. I don't see that as fitting in to the Oveready mandate, but that's just me.

I've changed the tailcaps on L2s and L2Ps to forward-clickies using McClicky switches and with modified Solarforce switch components. In each case using a McClicky so far, I've removed the McClicky because although I came up with working implementations, the switch action was far too light, and with the lack of reliable lockout in a Solarforce body, the chance of accidental activation was too great. Finding a stiffer boot might resolve that, but there's still the question of whether it makes any sense (to me) from a cost and function standpoint.

Lastly, the notion of making a bulk purchase of some inexpensive generic tailcap, that would presumably fit and function well with Solarforce, Surefire and other thread-compatible hosts, and coupling the tailcap with a McClicky, seems of dubious merit to me.

If I run a Surefire body, I'd prefer a (modified if necessary) Surefire tailcap, or one offering similar quality while giving me the features I'm interested in. If I'm running a budget host, we're back at the question of whether a McClicky makes sense in that application. There's also the very real question of aesthetic suitability - will the finish match acceptably, is the machining appropriate etc.

If Oveready could source or manufacture a high-quality inexpensive tailcap that was truly Surefire and Solarforce compatible, and load it with a budget version of the McClicky kit, there might be an acceptable market for that, but I'm skeptical about the economics, especially if matching finishes is desired. This also seems better suited to the business models of some of the general flashlight dealers that support the enthusiast market.




- Syncytial.
 
If Oveready could source or manufacture a high-quality inexpensive tailcap that was truly Surefire and Solarforce compatible, and load it with a budget version of the McClicky kit, there might be an acceptable market for that, but I'm skeptical about the economics, especially if matching finishes is desired. This also seems better suited to the business models of some of the general flashlight dealers that support the enthusiast market.

Not to knock your perspective syncytial as you do make valid points, but the reality of any business here that is into making a custom part here that would satisfy both what would be considered "high quality" and also be economically low in cost to both make and sell would be very difficult to accomplish. With that said and being an owner of several of the proposed Ultrafire C1 tailcaps, I personally think they're alot better than people think and definitely an extremely cost effective solution. The one I have with Oveready McClicky kit installed performs excellently, but of course I do feel that has more to do with the installed kit moreso than the actual tailcap itself...which in terms of what it is suppose to do, also is fine and does allow the flashlight to tailstand. What I think should be done (but not sure how much it will raise the costs) would be for Oveready to strip the existing ano off the Ultrafire C1 and redo it with a higher quality HA coating or simply Cerakote the existing ano...doing that would definitely make the tailcap housing itself a custom job in my book and arguably give a placebo effect of being "high quality".
 
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indeed C1 ano is one of the things I do not like...the otehr are the knurling...

Sycytial you have hit the nail on the aftermarket FWD switch options.

Especially the lock-out feature, something i am working on...:naughty:😗😀
 
Not to knock your perspective syncytial as you do make valid points, but the reality of any business here that is into making a custom part here that would satisfy both what would be considered "high quality" and also be economically low in cost to both make and sell would be very difficult to accomplish.

Unless I'm misreading your post, we agree.

syncytial said:
If Oveready could source or manufacture a high-quality inexpensive tailcap that was truly Surefire and Solarforce compatible, and load it with a budget version of the McClicky kit, there might be an acceptable market for that, but I'm skeptical about the economics, especially if matching finishes is desired. This also seems better suited to the business models of some of the general flashlight dealers that support the enthusiast market.

I also doubt that stripping and recoating the Ultrafire will make sense from a cost standpoint, as my comment about matching finishes suggests.

Certainly, loading a McClicky into an Ultrafire C1 will work, that wasn't in question. What is open for discussion is how many will buy it.
 
Unless I'm misreading your post, we agree.

I also doubt that stripping and recoating the Ultrafire will make sense from a cost standpoint, as my comment about matching finishes suggests.

Certainly, loading a McClicky into an Ultrafire C1 will work, that wasn't in question. What is open for discussion is how many will buy it.

Seems so, just that I somehow interpreted what you said as asking for a high quality solution total tailcap that would also satisfy the desires of those on a budget...afterall this is a thread about Solarforce products. As for the UF C1 tailcap itself, in my opinion it's not aesthetically bad in terms of design and finish. Maybe I have lower standards than some people here, but I think it satisfies the requirements of low cost and fairly good functionality in my opinion. Still, the McClicky kit itself may be not considered a low cost option to many and so it is a valid question as to how many would buy it who have shown interest in this thread. I'm not sure the cost of redoing anodizing, but I've been told it's very reasonable depending on the size of the project. Seeing how Oveready already does custom reanodizing of Surefires, one would think that whatever coating shop that is contracted to do this would simply be able to lump it into the existing work without adding too much additional cost. I may be wrong with my train of thought there or simply not have all the facts, but that is the common or logical sense I am going with here.
 
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I doubt many people are going to spend $40 for a tailcap that doesn't match. People buy Solarforce to save money.
 
recDNA's post succinctly captures the problem. Unless you need/want the current capabilities of the McClicky switch, you can buy complete compatible forward clicky switches for less than an Ultrafire/McClicky would likely cost, especially if it was recoated (look at the pricing of Oveready's tailcaps and McClicky kits to estimate costs.) You can buy new genuine Solarforce forward clicky tailcaps for $12.00 - 15.00 delivered and I expect other brands for even less.

For those with a need for a McClicky in a budget host, the least cost option would be to use their existing tailcaps with a McClicky and suitable adapters/boots. That also avoids the problem/cost of matching for aesthetics as well as function. Changing parts in a Solarforce tailcap is easy - most budget tailcaps should be easy too.

Since one can buy a complete (reverse clicky) tailcap for $3.00 or less (delivered), I can see the appeal of loading it with a McClicky, but if it has to pass through the hands of another person for modification, with his costs and profit, then add shipping etc., the end cost may restrict sales to a point where the whole exercise isn't worth pursuing by a business.


- Syncytial
 
I doubt many people are going to spend $40 for a tailcap that doesn't match. People buy Solarforce to save money.

Good point...but as a flashaholic, I can't help but feel this was an idea worth exploring.
 
It is interesting that there are lots of folks at CPF that will buy a Solarforce class host and spend many times its cost to upgrade it.

There is little that goes on around here that makes sense... when it comes to efficiency. There is little that goes on at CPF and those that support it, that would ever make sense to a mainstream business.

I have an L2P host that cost about $30 that I have spent another $60 on it and I am not satisfied. Am I an idiot, most non flashacolics (including my XYL) would say so. Yet I still spend money on this "hobby". I will buy a couple of the proposed switches and see how they work on my lights. I doubt that I am alone.

Is the market limited. Certainly. Do companies like Oveready make enough money in this market to remain interested in catering to our idiocy? Apparently so.

syncytial, you would fit right in with the bean counters at my place of employment. BTW, they make lots of money for us. They would never make something like a flashlight tailcap, or boot, or switch! It certainly does not make sense!

I am real glad that there are folks around that think differently, and make a living at it, or at least find it worth doing to supplement their income, in the realm of CPF!

If not, I might just have to go back and remember something about being a real engineer... just so I could make my flashlights do what I want them to do....

Buying something pre-engineered and known to work, in the end saves me money. I am not sure that I am so different than other flashaholics.

Granted, I doubt that anyone will pay the all of the bills by making tailcaps. Every little bit goes towards paying the rent though!

Phil

I doubt many people are going to spend $40 for a tailcap that doesn't match. People buy Solarforce to save money.
 
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mandrake you are right, but one think....

we woldl spent the same money regardless of host.....Surefire 6P & Compatible modularity is an addiction....
 
Phil,

While I'm quite capable of sounding sensible, to the point of accountancy, the reality is quite different! I'm every bit as foolish as anyone can be - I spend vast amounts of time and horrifying sums buying "flashlights" and parts for same. I'm a repeat offender at the Oveready bar & grill, and the Malkoffs should dance when they hear my name!

Perhaps EG will decide to offer the UF TCs as a loss leader to encourage more souls to give themselves up in the name of lumens...


- Syncytial.


P.S. - Do I smell ham? Hobbies are such delights, especially to the more delightful amongst us! 😉


syncytial, you would fit right in with the bean counters at my place of employment. BTW, they make lots of money for us. They would never make something like a flashlight tailcap, or boot, or switch! It certainly does not make sense!
Phil
 
Excellent discussion!


I also doubt that stripping and recoating the Ultrafire will make sense from a cost standpoint

one would think that whatever coating shop that is contracted to do this would simply be able to lump it into the existing work without adding too much additional cost.

Throwing a bunch of unfinished parts into a coating bath isn't much different for 200 parts vs 400. Stripping them before that is a different story. Each kind of coating, each thickness, must be hand monitored to make sure enough is removed without removing to much. This part of the batch, then, would need to to be done individually. For the investment, it would make more sense to make new caps rather than improving these caps.


What may be practical, for Oveready, or other volume sellers to offer, is a few low-cost washers and boots in various dimensions that would work as add-ons with the existing McClicky kit. The versatility and usefulness with many different manufacturer's lights would be beneficial to a greater audience and the risks fewer.

This was plan A. Find some off the shelf plastic washers and shim up the boot. But we at OR have a little problem doing 'good enough'. If you'll pardon the expression, it feels wishy washy, not solid and reliable as something as important as a switch needs to be. We'll spend $70 on a paint job if it means it will last longer than the light underneath.


It is interesting that there are lots of folks at CPF that will buy a Solarforce class host and spend many times its cost to upgrade it.

I find there are two factors that enter consideration for the price of upgrades and accessories. The first is proportionality to the price of the base product. 20% of the original price is no brainer. 60% of the original price is tougher to accept. The second is proportionality to benefit. If its a light you use everyday and some particular feature, say the switch, drives you crazy every time you use it, you're not buying the upgrade for the light, you're buying it for yourself. Starting with a cheaper host doesn't change this reality.
 
I have a not too far off topic question for you Solarforce fans. Please dont :whoopin:me if it has already mentioned as I have not completely kept up with this thread. Has anybody took the switch apart of the L2R 2 x AA host to see if it can be upgraded to a forward clicky? Since the tailcap is smaller, maybe the McClicky might be a possibility.
 
I have a not too far off topic question for you Solarforce fans. Please dont :whoopin:me if it has already mentioned as I have not completely kept up with this thread. Has anybody took the switch apart of the L2R 2 x AA host to see if it can be upgraded to a forward clicky? Since the tailcap is smaller, maybe the McClicky might be a possibility.


I've thought about it, but I haven't tried it - yet. I expect the basic construction will be similar to the larger Solarforce bodies. Just a moment while I run down to the Solarforce room...

OK, I just popped the switch out of an L2R tailcap. Construction is basically the same as the standard sized Solarforce switches, just a smaller diameter board - pretty much exactly the dimension of the switch from corner to diagonally opposite corner. Might it have been sized based on the size of the switch?

So... next step: The McClicky is still too small to thread into the tailcap of the L2R, but not by much. It'll slip in to the bottom of the tailcap. OK, next challenge... the stock boot and plastic spacer won't work with the McClicky. The spacer's centre hole isn't large enough, and the boot is too shallow. Off to the rubber room for a different boot!

Allright! Found a nasty green thing that fits and works with the McClicky in the L2R tailcap - but wait, there's another problem! The threaded retaining ring from Solarforce in the tailcap is plastic! There's no path for the current to get from the switch to the tailcap. Egads!

I assembled the light without the retaining ring - just to see if it's OK mechanically, and yes it seems that it'd be just fine. But unless I mash some aluminium foil in there, or magically find a threaded conductive retaining ring of the right size, we're out of luck. Maybe I've got time to carefully try the foil bit - that'll have to be instrumented, so I'll post this and update when done - if I survive!

<EDIT> - OK, I'm back. There are a couple of remaining obstacles, and I'm not going to resolve them tonight, although I can see how one might.

First - the retaining ring's inner diameter isn't large enough to go over the centre part of the McClicky in order to seat properly. You might be able to open up the hole, but it wouldn't leave a lot of material.

Second - the foil idea is a no-go. There are exposed conductors from both (electrical) sides of the switch, so the foil would just short out the switch, giving permanent ON. Not so good.

If a retainer was fashioned from non-conductive material, but taller, with a few threads worth of a conductive plate at the bottom (the plate alone would be too thin for structural needs since it has to exist below some conductive elements of the switch) it could be made to work. Or it could be done with a cylindrical metal retainer, possibly with a thin non-conductive inner sleeve. Mechanically, as noted above, everything goes together fine with a set of Duraloops in there. Protected 14500s might be too tight - hang on... OK, a pair of protected 14500 LiIon cells fit OK, and everything goes together fine, with good switch action.

By the way... it's the same switch as is used in the standard L2/L2M, so the actual switch could be replaced on the Solarforce board and all the fiddly mechanical problems would go away. I think I've heard that song before... 🙂

That's it for tonight on this little tangent!


- Syncytial.
 
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I have a not too far off topic question for you Solarforce fans. Please dont :whoopin:me if it has already mentioned as I have not completely kept up with this thread. Has anybody took the switch apart of the L2R 2 x AA host to see if it can be upgraded to a forward clicky? Since the tailcap is smaller, maybe the McClicky might be a possibility.


you just caught me on the act....I have one similar board taken from another flashlight with the KD FWD Switch ready!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2630262&postcount=2
(soldering is better than in sample in the pic). And I have successfully tested it in a L2R.

It will be soon up for sale along with something else Solarforce
 
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Do you have to bake on the cerakote paint?



[FQUOTE=ElectronGuru;3474468]Excellent discussion!



Do you have to bake the cerakote?


Throwing a bunch of unfinished parts into a coating bath isn't much different for 200 parts vs 400. Stripping them before that is a different story. Each kind of coating, each thickness, must be hand monitored to make sure enough is removed without removing to much. This part of the batch, then, would need to to be done individually. For the investment, it would make more sense to make new caps rather than improving these caps.




This was plan A. Find some off the shelf plastic washers and shim up the boot. But we at OR have a little problem doing 'good enough'. If you'll pardon the expression, it feels wishy washy, not solid and reliable as something as important as a switch needs to be. We'll spend $70 on a paint job if it means it will last longer than the light underneath.




I find there are two factors that enter consideration for the price of upgrades and accessories. The first is proportionality to the price of the base product. 20% of the original price is no brainer. 60% of the original price is tougher to accept. The second is proportionality to benefit. If its a light you use everyday and some particular feature, say the switch, drives you crazy every time you use it, you're not buying the upgrade for the light, you're buying it for yourself. Starting with a cheaper host doesn't change this reality.[/QUOTE]
 
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Do you have to bake on the cerakote paint

There are 2 grades of Cerakote, "C" which is ambient cure & "H" which is thermally (heat) cured. Except for special applications (clear), we only use the tougher H, which requires baking, in excess of 200 degrees. Course, this is the gentle part of the process. Without media blasting parts first, adhesion isn't good enough to make it worthwhile.
 
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