Sold/Expired SOLD: WTS: Surefire KL1 mod (U2SVOH SSC, IMS20 reflector, e1e body, McE2s tail)

[bluecrow76]

WTS: Surefire KL1 mod (U2SVOH SSC, IMS20 reflector, e1e body, McE2s tail)

EDIT: I went back through the rest of my emails with gunga and gleaned some more information, especially the info that was requested by the handful of PMs I've received. I had forgotten it had an AR lens in it. The emitter is perfectly centered in the reflector... I can't actually see any of the black base of the P4 between the emitter and reflector. Tint, as described by photonfanatic, of the SVO flavor is vanilla. It's a bit warmer than the KX2B head I have... all things being subjective.

There are no rings in the beam profile. It is very similar to a Novatac but with a tighter hot spot.

It's time to buy my wife a new pair of glasses, so this guy is up on the auction block.

I bought this from Gunga in late February. At the time I was looking for an L1. He had just built this when he sold it to me. It was in such good condition when I got it that I haven't wanted to use it much. Other than walking around the house at night (you know... usual CPF night wanderings) and a couple walks, it's been on the shelf. Below is quoted from his PM to me:

I have a Surefire KL1 head, modded with a U2SVOH seoul and an IMS20 reflector and modded with AR coated lens. It is on an E1E body with a natural tailcap. it has a McE2s 30 ohm 2 stage already installed, so basically it is a more compact, e-series L1. Exact same interface.

It can run 2xCR123, 1x17670, or 1xRCR123. Much more versatile circuit!

The KL1 runs at around 500 mA to the emitter, so a U2SVOH is over 100 lumens easy, likely around 130+. The beam has nice throw with good flood. Seouls are real nice with smooth reflectors!

Low mode for me on 1 cell (RCR123) I think is around 5-8 lumens. Very useful level and can be tuned by swapping resistors or boards.
​

The head, body and tail are in NIB condition... that is if you could get this light in a box!

The white line in the reflector in the image below is a reflection of the fluorescent bulb providing light for the photo.



Price: -= SOLD =- $120 FIRM shipped USPS First Class + delivery confirmation & insurance (CONUS only). Will ship international, buyer pays actual shipping. Paypal accepted. Add 4% for credit card funded transactions. I will send Paypal information after an I'll take it.

 

[Sgt. LED]

Re: WTS: Surefire KL1 mod (U2SVOH SSC, IMS20 reflector, e1e body, McE2s tail)

Nice, I like it.

 

[euroken]

Re: WTS: Surefire KL1 mod (U2SVOH SSC, IMS20 reflector, e1e body, McE2s tail)

:wave: PM sent~

 

[bluecrow76]

Re: WTS: Surefire KL1 mod (U2SVOH SSC, IMS20 reflector, e1e body, McE2s tail)

Thanks for the PM's... I went back through the rest of the emails with gunga and grabbed a bunch more information. First post updated with requested information.

 

[euroken]

Re: WTS: Surefire KL1 mod (U2SVOH SSC, IMS20 reflector, e1e body, McE2s tail)

!!!

Paypal to follow shortly!

 

[bluecrow76]

Re: WTS: Surefire KL1 mod (U2SVOH SSC, IMS20 reflector, e1e body, McE2s tail)

PM sent with Paypal info.

SPF to euroken! Thanks!

 

[bluecrow76]

Payment received... that was fast! Light will ship tomorrow.

Thanks CPF, and especially euroken!

 

[euroken]

I'm trying to earn my title as a "flashaholic"!!! :naughty:

Thank you for your patience and answering all my questions!

 

[gunga]

Augh, you sold it! Well, it was a fun mod (I did a few).

euroken, if you want any info on the mod, just let me know!

 

[euroken]

Thank you Gunga!

Can't wait to get my hands on it! :twothumbs

I'm sure I'll have questions once I start playing with it.

 

[bluecrow76]

Hey gunga, I sent you a PM on CPFMP to let you know I was putting this up for sale. It went MUCH faster than I thought it would. It's been a good light but other duties call!

The package has been shipped and Paypal updated with tracking information. Also PM'ed you the information. Let me know when it shows up!

 

[euroken]

Hey Bluecrow76 and Gunga!

I got the light today in very secure package! I think a semi could have rolled over it and the light would have been fine! :thumbsup:

Just brought it home, popped a 3v li-ion in it and fire it up...WOOHOO I'd say this thing is as bright as or even a tad brighter than my D10 R2, so close to 140ish? From my previous posts questioning NEX's 190 lumen, I know for sure D10 R2 is one bright light! And I'm impressed with this modded KL1! Besides, it is a warmer tint with smooth transition to flood!

So your original guess of 130 was pretty acurate! If the lumens rating is correct, this thing would kill the new E1b 80.

The light is as you adverised, described, and shown on the photos and it is fantastic!

One question! Although I think I've already figure it out...the tailcap is a twisty, correct? Twist little in for low and tighter for high? I pressed the button and there was no click :duh2:

Do you know if there is a two stage tailcap I can put on to make it a two stage clicky instead? Just curious.

Other than that, I LOVE THE LIGHT!!!! I'm going to compare it with my NEX when the sun goes down tonight :devil:

Thanks again for the great sale!

:wave:

 

[gunga]

Hey Euroken, glad you like the light!

THe interface is the same as an L!, either twist a bit for low, more for high, or when off, press a bit for low, more for high (momentary only).

You can easily change the switch guts to get a clicky, but it will be high only, no low mode.

ENjoy!

:wave:

 

[euroken]

I didn't realize L1 interface is the same! I thought it was a clicky

I wasn't complaining, but just used to the clicky! I already have a spare tailcap I've tried on. I like the options :twothumbs

Thanks again for the great mod!

 

[bluecrow76]

Hey euroken,

I'm glad it made it there safely and you are already enjoying it! Gunga did an EXCELLENT job on that mod. The one other trick to be aware of with that light is lockout. The McE2s modified tail switch prevents you from doing a tail lockout, but you can lockout the head, just give it a slight twist if it's going to be stowed in a bag and you will prevent accidental activation.

I hope that light helps feed your flashoholism... it sure did mine! :devil:

 

[euroken]

I was just wondering about the lockout. This light just might replace my D10 for EDC.

This is my first surefire and the build quality is as what everyone in CPF has claimed. And, yes, I'd say Gunga's mod is perfect. If you hadn't said this light was modded, I would have never known until I turned on the light!

Thanks again and see you around in the forums! lovecpf

 

[gunga]

Sooo, how do you like your e-series L1 UI lego?

Just wanted to get some feedback.

:devil:

 

[euroken]

Hey Gunga!

I like the concept of UI and at first right after I got the light, I had no problems with it.

Well, something funky started happening just a couple of days ago. Everytime I fully depress the cap for high and then let go it would return to low.

Now this sounds normal except that I have the tailcap loosened way out so that the light is at an off position before I press the tailcap. At this position, once I press the tailcap fully the light goes low=>high, and then when I let go of the tailcap the light should go high=>low briefly=>off.

Well, it's as if the spring on the tailcap is sticking to the battery. As I siad, the UI worked good when I first got it but now, I practically have to unscrew the tailcap completely before the light would turn off.

Not a detrimental problem but not what I expected to happen after some use.

Otherwise, as I said, L1 UI is/was great!

Oh, one more thing, I've replaced the IMS20 reflector to Mcr20s! A little less hotspot and very useable beam! Love it! :twothumbs

 

[gunga]

The o-ring on the McE2s is binding inside the end of the battery tube, take it out, clean it off and relube is with some teflon lube (or something similar), the brief low problem should go away.

It's a simple mechanical switch, so any problems are usually simple to solve! Sometimes I replace the o-ring with a slightly smaller one to help the switch action.

:wave: