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Some questions concerning downboy

PeterB

Enlightened
Joined
May 17, 2003
Messages
444
Location
Germany
I would like to use a downboy to drive an Low Vf (H-Bin) LS with a single LiIon (I've joined Highlandsuns group by for 17670's). Therefore some questions:
- What is the necessary voltage drop between Vin and Vout?
- What current ratings will be available?
- When will the downboy be available?

The second solution would be to use a Wizard, but I would like to overdrive the LED a little bit more than 400mA /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

best regards,

Peter
 
Here's a different Downboy question: will it be possible to set the current to UNDERDRIVE the LED, say to 200 mA, by changing a sense resistor? Thanks.
 
Yes, good questions.

Downboy exists as of today but not in its final configuration. A little hiccup in that I ordered the old board and not the new board so the raw boards that just came in friday are bunk. Sure, they are fine but the older boards have components on both sides. The new boards are cool in that they have components on only one side and have the battery round copper spot on the backside. This will allow the DownBoy to go into the Ecan modules like the Badboy.

DownBoy does not work with the connectors and emitter board for making a Sammich.

DownBoy will be offered in 300, 400, 500, 700, 750, 1A and 1.5A models.

Downboy is very friendly and is in DD when Vin is less than Vf. The IC still sucks power so it's not a true DD and high efficiency. Especially at very low Vf voltages its possible the IC is drawing more than the LED. When Vin=Vf is when the IC starts trying to work. The IC starts regulating when Vin > Vf and will maintain regulation up to 16V. It can be ramped from below Vf to above Vf and the IC kicks in pretty smoothly during the transition zone. It will also fall out of regulation nicely and transition to DD pretty smoothly.

Downboy has no moonmode setting. It will drop into DD mode and will operate that way till the batteries die. The one runtime test I did it continued to run another 6+ hours but at some point the LED was just a faint glow.

The plan now is to order another small batch of boards which would take 2 weeks. Assembly would add another week.

As soon as I get the new boards back from assembly I will quickly test one and immediately order a large run the next day.

Volume production quantiy would then be 2-3 weeks from that time.

I have some at present, but, they are the double sided component version and they are all Downboy 400s. Adding sense resistors will make them the other versions.

At best we are about 6 weeks out for any volume.
 
Sounds great Wayne.
This will be very useful indeed.
Will these boards be about the same price as the BB and MM's?
If so, they will be well worth the wait. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Wayne, thanks for that explanation. My question about underdriving was to be able to run a Luxeon in a low-current mode for long runtime (maybe 12 regulated hours on 2x123 at 150 mA) or low heat emission (for a headlamp without much heatsink mass). Do you mean the circuit can't be operated below 300 mA with Vin > Vf by choosing suitable resistors?
 
Just what ive been waiting for! now i can buy the bits for a 3x123 5 watt McLux /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif




well, as soon as i pay off some of my CC bill anyway....
 
OK, I've been thinking about this smore.

Here's what I'm going to do. I will open the converter boards even more than what they are. I will start offering the converter boards with no sense resistors and offer the sense resistors on the store. In this way you can mix and match to make more possible combinations than what I've been currently offering.

One example would be to use a larger sense resistor and set the output current to 100mA. This would be ideal for a couple of series parallel Nichias whites, 3mm or 5mm LEDs.

As you can see your imagination becomes more unlimited (still limited) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I will be providing more detail in the near future.
 
oh boy, oh boy, oh boy! :rubs hands:

wait! i can't do sense resistors! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
Wow, cool. Um, if I want to run parallel Nichias, do I have to select them for matching Vf?

Btw, did you get my email about Shoppe order #480? Thanks.
 
paulr,

I think if you add a series resistor of 1-2 ohms that will help balance out the individual strings. Matching the LEDs is actually preferred if possible.
 
Wayne has his trusty friend experimenting with some proto's and the results so far are promising. The dang sense resistors are REALLY SMALL! Soldering under a microscope isn't too bad but when the tweezers launch a resistor, don't bother looking for it!

- Don
 
Hopefully your new items will be available about the same time I build up enough cash. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/drool.gif
 
The first generations are on the site. These are double sided components. Not the final version.

Only the DB400s are on there right now.

These are the way to go with 1W and 2 123s or 3 123s. Great run time and good regulation.

Wayne
 
[ QUOTE ]
McGizmo said:
Wayne has his trusty friend experimenting with some proto's and the results so far are promising. The dang sense resistors are REALLY SMALL! Soldering under a microscope isn't too bad but when the tweezers launch a resistor, don't bother looking for it!

- Don

[/ QUOTE ]
Time to start taking my allergy medicine again! Losing a bunch of resistors to a sneeze would be Bad.

Time to do some checking w.r.t. Luxeon heatsinking in my car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Entropy said:
Time to do some checking w.r.t. Luxeon heatsinking in my car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
I've found that gluing them directly to the sheet metal works nicely.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Darell said:
[ QUOTE ]
Entropy said:
Time to do some checking w.r.t. Luxeon heatsinking in my car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
I've found that gluing them directly to the sheet metal works nicely.

[/ QUOTE ]
That's my idea, just have to look at the light enclosures to make sure there's some sheet metal that is readily accessible. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Number one thing I'd love to figure out is some way to mount a Luxeon on fabric without damaging the fabric. (read: most convertibles don't have any form of dome light.)
 
You want to remove it when the hood is down? Can you use those little hook and loop fabric things (don't remember name- they say rritsj when you separate them)?
 
If using these in a automotive some input front end circuitry is required. You will need to bulletize the board.

A series automotive linear regulator like the LM2940 series or a Series diode and Zener/Transorb.

Something to limit Vin from exceeding 16V from transients and reverse battery protection.
 
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