source of steel to mill block for RT?

[wquiles]

My Yuasa RT needs a block, like the one shown in these pictures:

Until now I have been working on Al only. Where can I buy a small piece of steel to machine this piece?

Will

EDIT: fixed the tittle 😳

 

[Mirage_Man]

Re: source of still to mill block for RT?

I don't know where you can find a "still" but there are several online sources for steel . But don't you have a local supply house?

 

[jhanko]

Re: source of still to mill block for RT?

I use speedymetals.com when I need something small & fast. They have everything except exotics. No minimum and very fast, reasonable shipping.

 

[precisionworks]

Metals Depot is also excellent.

http://www.metalsdepot.com/

 

[wquiles]

Thanks Brian for the correction 😱 My local store sells only surplus. I am sure there must be another store/shop in Dallas that sells metal, but I don't know where yet.

Now, based on those links, I can order these steels:
- 1018
- 1045
- 12L14
- A36

For this simple project, what steel should I be considering?

Will

 

[darkzero]

I'm lucky to have an Industrial Metal Supply location near me. They're huge, I can get you anything if you need, of course larger heavy stock might not be so practical to ship to you but I'm willing to for you.

 

[KC2IXE]

Thanks Brian for the correction 😱 My local store sells only surplus. I am sure there must be another store/shop in Dallas that sells metal, but I don't know where yet.

Now, based on those links, I can order these steels:
- 1018
- 1045
- 12L14
- A36

For this simple project, what steel should I be considering?

Will

Go with the 12L14, if you don't have to harden it. It works SO much easier than the others - 1045 isn't bad, A36 is often a gummy mess

Another that works nicely is "stressproof" - it's a form of 1144

One "Issue" with steel, and more of a problem with "non round" stock - Cold Rolled steel tends to warp like mad when you machine it, as the cold rolling build in all sorts of stresses - which is why 1144/stressproof is so nice. Hot rolled (a36) doesn't warp, but is a pig

 

[wquiles]

Go with the 12L14, if you don't have to harden it. It works SO much easier than the others - 1045 isn't bad, A36 is often a gummy mess

Another that works nicely is "stressproof" - it's a form of 1144

One "Issue" with steel, and more of a problem with "non round" stock - Cold Rolled steel tends to warp like mad when you machine it, as the cold rolling build in all sorts of stresses - which is why 1144/stressproof is so nice. Hot rolled (a36) doesn't warp, but is a pig

Cool - thanks!

I have been spending some time tonight trying to find where to buy steel locally, and I found a couple of places, this one which is not too far from my house:
http://www.trident-metals.com/steel.shtml

They state in their web site that they sell LOTs of steel variants: Allow Steel, Tool Steel, and Carbon Steels. I never worked with steel before (except with knife steels), so I am a little bit at a loss here, but they should have what I need 😉

Will

 

[precisionworks]

If I had to choose only one steel to use for the rest of my life, 1144 Stressproof would be my pick.

http://www.niagaralasalle.com/products/stressproof.html

http://www.onlinemetals.com/alloycat.cfm?alloy=1144

Sweet machining, 44 carbon points if you need or want to flame harden it, 115 ksi tensile strength (which puts it close to 4140 in strength but a ton easier to machine).

The only problem with 1144 Stressproof is that once you try it, you'll rarely use anything else😀 Available in rounds only, AFAIK.

 

[gadget_lover]

You can also check to see if SIMS metals has a local outlet. They bought some local recyclers in Texas. The one here (San Jose) has a retail outlet with all sorts of 'stuff'. I walked through and almost stumbled on a 2 x2 x 1 FOOT block of aluminum. Outside was a batch of rollers from an assembly line conveyor. They also have smaller stuff and will cut to size. $25 minumum order, IIRC.


Daniel

 

[KC2IXE]

If I had to choose only one steel to use for the rest of my life, 1144 Stressproof would be my pick.

Yeah, I've only found rounds too. Shame that.

If you don't need to harden or weld it, I still prefer 12L14 though, that stuff is like butter

(aside - woot - got to spend my first serious time in the shop since I was in the hospital last night. Did the first op work for 35 adaptors. The 2nd op is to turn off the parting pip - this is my client http://www.k3camera.com/k3/k3batt.php )

 

[precisionworks]

I still prefer 12L14 though, that stuff is like butter

12L14 is the metallic equivalent of warm butter😀

1212 is the 'reference standard' for machinability, and has a rating of 100.

1144 Stressproof is rated 76, meaning that it's about 24% more difficult to machine (speed, feed, cycle time, etc.)

12L14 is rated 170, meaning it's almost twice as easy to machine as 1212. All the leaded steels (those having the letter L between the second & third digits) are known as 'free machining' steels. And there are free machining grades of aluminum (2011-T3), brass (C360), and stainless (Type 303).

It boils down to selecting a material based on what properties are important for the application ... which is why there are so many choices available😀

 

[KC2IXE]

C360 brass - gotta love working that stuff. (it's what the battery adaptors are made of) - can't remember the last time I changed an insert, or sharpened the dedicated drill bit for that jon - maybe 600-700 parts ago?

 

[StrikerDown]

It boils down to selecting a material based on what properties are important for the application ... which is why there are so many choices available😀

So, this bring us back to Will's question.
Does he really need something exotic that can anchor the space shuttle platform during launch? Or is this a "not so" high stress part?
Obviously if it were made of aluminum it might not work at all or might not be suitable for a repetitive use environment in a machine shop, but could he get by in a limited use situation knowing there is a factory part on the other side?
Is there a need to have both sides clamped the the same torque specs?

 

[KG2V]

So, this bring us back to Will's question.
Does he really need something exotic that can anchor the space shuttle platform during launch? Or is this a "not so" high stress part?
Obviously if it were made of aluminum it might not work at all or might not be suitable for a repetitive use environment in a machine shop, but could he get by in a limited use situation knowing there is a factory part on the other side?
Is there a need to have both sides clamped the the same torque specs?

No one is quoting anything "exotic" here, just common steels. You really don't want Al, and steel isn't all that hard to work.

My local steel supplier has no problem handing me 12L14, or 1144 - stock items, and he's a small steel house

BTW, there is a recomendation for you - once you start getting into this, places like Online metals (and any of the other on line metal stores) are good for the occasional piece, but call your local steel vendor and say "I'd like a quote - 1 stick each of 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" 12l14 (or 1144), (with a cut to whatever length you can handle), plus sticks of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/8x1/2 and a few other sizes of Hot Rolled - make the order worth his time. You'll find you will be paying a VERY small fraction of online material cost

 

[StrikerDown]

Exotic is a relative term... I almost never turn or or mill steel (yet) So it is all exotic to me. I mean I might even be tempted to make a chuck adapter plate out of something like aluminum! :thinking:

So it sounds like almost any piece of steel will work as long as it is big enough to hold while being machined.

I guess I am curious because the metal surp store I frequent, rarely list the various metal types, except for hot/cold rolled, maybe they just don't carry anything like what you guys are listing above.

 

[precisionworks]

"I'd like a quote - 1 stick each of ...

+1

I don't stock lots of steel, as all the local suppliers offer next day truck delivery at no charge ($500 minimum order for free delivery). But I do keep full sticks of 1144 Stressproof round in sizes from 1/8" to 1", plus hot rolled flat stock in different sizes, plus 1" square tube with 1/8" wall. A little SS and a small quantity of aluminum are always on hand. If someone calls at midnight, broken down on I-57, I need enough to patch something back together ... which most CPF members may not need.

If you can make friends with a smaller, local factory or fabrication shop, they will often let you piggyback your steel order with theirs. Some will even order in steel for you, and sell it at cost + 10%, to handle the paperwork.

Beats the heck out of cost + 100%😀

 

[wquiles]

Well, following on Brian's suggestion for a local metal source, I found one, just 20 minutes from my work/office:
http://www.metals4u.com/

They have a several locations, including one right here in Dallas. They also have a location in Austin, which sells on Ebay, which I have used already, so it was nice to find the location here in Dallas. I called them up and verified they accepted walk-ins, and after a short drive, I walked away with a piece 12" long of 2" round stock 12L14 steel. This will be a great learning experience turning the round stock into that block for the RT. Once I get some experience under my belt with the 12L14, I can then work with the 1144 stress proof, which they also sell at the same location 😉

Thanks much for the suggestions 🙂

Will

 

[Torque1st]

Even out in the wilds you can usually find a welding or fab shop that will sell you some steel.

 

[KC2IXE]

Exotic is a relative term... I almost never turn or or mill steel (yet) So it is all exotic to me. I mean I might even be tempted to make a chuck adapter plate out of something like aluminum! :thinking:

So it sounds like almost any piece of steel will work as long as it is big enough to hold while being machined.

I guess I am curious because the metal surp store I frequent, rarely list the various metal types, except for hot/cold rolled, maybe they just don't carry anything like what you guys are listing above.

OK, "Hot rolled" and "Cold Rolled" is a process, NOT a grade of material. Almost all the Hot Rolled you see out there is A36. Cold Rolled is 1018 or 1020 (can't remember)

So, when I (or someone else) says "Use A36" they are saying "Grab a stick of common hot rolled, and mill the part out of it" 😉