Spark SX5 Mini Review

Bolster

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 7, 2007
Messages
1,542
Location
Mexifornia
I requested a Spark SX5 Neutral for Christmas and I apparently fooled Santa into thinking I was a good boy this year, because he (or rather 'she') delivered. I was beguiled by the SX5's bright advertised lumens, its long runtime, and the fact it can be powered by three of the cells I've standardized on, Eneloop AAs. (It may also be powered by a wide range of other cells, of which the li-ions give impressively longer runtimes).

As regulars to the CPF Headlamps subforum know, I use my headlamps for hand work, that is, working on cars, on houses, on fences, and so on. The most used range for me is from 18" to 6 feet. So when a forumite reported that you could remove the reflector of the SX5 and turn it into a directional flood, I put the SX5 on the want list. Upon receiving it, I almost immediately removed the reflector and have used it as a flood ever since, so I'm not able to report on its throwing capacity, other than to say: with the reflector, it throws like a traditional spot/spill handheld. Recently I made a white paper ring to go around the inside circumference of the light's body, to eek out a few more lumens than the dark olive-drab anodizing allows. I would like to paint the interior of the screw on bezel white, also. It would be nice if Spark would simply paint any part that potentially receives lumens, white. I can think of no good reason to waste lumens on dark anodizing.

Mounted on my Elios climbing helmet, the SX5 perched happily, but I eventually remounted the SX5 onto a bump cap. Reason being, the Elios works better as a lie-on-your-back, stay-on-your-head helmet, so my Spark SD52 was a better match for it, since it has no battery pack on the back. On the bump cap, I simply have an easy-to-wear, easy-on-and-off headlamp, which is very handy and fast into action.

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The view of the SX5 trigs to 82 degrees. That's essentially the same field of view as the much-loved Zebralight H501. I've gotten so used to the wide field of view of the ZL H502 (120 degrees) and the Spark SD52 (115 degrees), that the SX5 took some adjustment…the field of view seemed a bit narrow when working in tight places in an attic, head wedged into a narrow crevice. But, when standing further off, the 82 FOV is lovely and very useful. Lucky that this is what the SX5 naturally gives us with the reflector pulled!

I find I use the lamp mostly on level 3 (of 5), which is the 55 lumen setting. Here it will run for 14 hours on 3 AAs before needing a refill. Occasionally, I bump it up to level 4, 170 lumens (gives 4 hours on AAs). It's plenty bright at 170, usually more than I need, and I seldom ever use the top level of 320 lm, which, like the 170 setting, is often too bright at close ranges, but handy for viewing across a room. The 320 setting is not that much different from the 170 setting, frankly, and hardly worth the shorter runtime. The sublumen mode is simply something to click through, as I can't think of when I'd need sublumens for a work helmet mount. Shocking though this may be, I actually don't wear a helmet for reading in bed or checking on the sleeping kids. [EDIT: Works great as a "find me in the dark" light or nightlight.]

For tight-quarters attic work, the SX5 in its stock configuration (light up front, battery pack in back of the head) is NOT ideal. This is me crawling under the joists: thwack, thwack, thwack…that's the sound of the battery pack hitting every joist along the way. I actually wrapped the battery pack in tape to keep it looking unscratched. However, to my amazement, the wire cable between pack and light has not caught on anything yet. Perhaps the fact I taped it down tight to the helmet with masking tape has something to do with that. Am contemplating buying the extension cable and wearing the battery pack at my waist.

Tint is nice. A little more warm/rose than the SD52, which always struck me as dead neutral. My apologies for the photo…this house has light beige walls, so we can't see the actual tints. This shot is only good for comparison between the two. Also I'm using a cheapie instamatic that does auto-everything, including color balance, so this is a junk beamshot. It does capture the wide beam of the SD52 next to the more modest beam of the SX5.

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Thanks for the review. I have the SD6 with a reflector that permits full flood or another reflector for more throw; I like the versatility and it is perfect for me. I also like the simplicity of the light and it is easy to pack. The SX5 seems to be the light if you want battery versatility; which I don't find important.

In your SD5 or SX5, does the light cut out when batteries are depleted, or does it give you ample warning?
 
Would you believe I have yet to run my batts all the way down? I generally charge up before a job so I don't have to deal with dead cells, but I'm sure it will happen soon enough. Will report.

An anomaly to report: Several times I have left the light on its lowest setting and laid it on carpet. When I reach for the helmet, touching the light, it winks off. I thought this was very strange, until I reached for a Zebralight and when I touched it, it flashed once. It must be static electricity from the carpet.
 
Bolster,

Have you noticed this unit being dimmer than others of similar lumen rating? I really like the multiple battery options and the option to use a remote long cable battery setup. I was looking at goinggear's youtube review and perhaps its the camera/setup but it looks like even on high it was barely lighting up a reasonable sized back yard to the fence line etc. I haven't heard anyone complaining about it so it's probably just the video.

Also as an update did the light give you any warning as the batteries get low, or does it just cut out if you've had a chance to run it down yet?
 
Bolster,

Have you noticed this unit being dimmer than others of similar lumen rating? I really like the multiple battery options and the option to use a remote long cable battery setup. I was looking at goinggear's youtube review and perhaps its the camera/setup but it looks like even on high it was barely lighting up a reasonable sized back yard to the fence line etc. I haven't heard anyone complaining about it so it's probably just the video.

Also as an update did the light give you any warning as the batteries get low, or does it just cut out if you've had a chance to run it down yet?

I got my Spark SX5 in on Saturday.

When I compare the SX5 with my Fenix HP11 the Fenix seems to be brighter.

The HP11 has much more throw while the SX5 is more of a flood lamp. The HP11 lets you see farther while the SX5 lets you see much more of what's around you. Hard to really compare the two lamps

I'm really liking the SX5 with the XM-L led. The nice and wide "warm" beam sort of reminds me of my old carbide lamp. Only 100 x's brighter.

I think that the SX5 will make one hell of a cavin' lamp. I'll know for sure this coming week-end.
 
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Great review B! And thanks for the info on the tint... I do tend to prefer warmer neutrals.

I mentioned this in one of the other threads here, but does the bezel unscrew to put DC-fix on the lens?
 
Have you noticed this unit being dimmer than others of similar lumen rating? I really like the multiple battery options and the option to use a remote long cable battery setup...

Hard for me to say as I pulled out the reflector almost immediately, and that will waste some lumens. However, I always thought the Spark SD52 was over-rated, lumens wise. That said, I'm not the guy to ask about top lumens as I don't use them. Most my use is work, not searching or seeing into the distance, and for working in dark places, the SX5 is refreshingly bright, even "modified for flood" as mine is. And even though I gave the SX5 more hard-use attic work today, I still haven't run down my cells. Part of my "problem" is that in an attic, you don't want to blind yourself with high lumens, so I'm mostly on the 55 lumen setting, which lasts for 14 hours. Will report when I run these down.

...does the bezel unscrew to put DC-fix on the lens?

Yes it does. The bezel is nicely made, screws off easily, the glass lens plops out, and the whole thing is sealed with a fat o-ring, as ALL bezels should be, IMO. So yes, it would be easy for you to DC-fix it, either on the outside or inside. (May not seal as well if you DC-fix the inside.)

While my bezel was off, I fitted a white cardstock ring around the inside of the body, to throw a few more lumens out the frontside after I pulled the reflector. I wondered if I was risking a possibility of singing the paper, but no evidence whatsoever of heat reaching the outer perimeter around the emitter. Played with the idea of fashioning an aluminum ring, but don't want to deal with the sharp edges around the wires or the o-ring.

Of all the headlights I've owned, this SX5 is the most amenable to user modification. You can really shape it and mold it into the lamp you want, provided you're willing to live with the wire from the pack to the light...the Achilles heel.
 
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Yes it does. The bezel is nicely made, screws off easily, the glass lens plops out, and the whole thing is sealed with a fat o-ring, as ALL bezels should be, IMO. So yes, it would be easy for you to DC-fix it, either on the outside or inside. (May not seal as well if you DC-fix the inside.)

Good to know; thanks! :twothumbs That's a definite plus. Now that I think about it, it should have been obvious after reading the part where you said you took the reflector out! Doh! :ohgeez:

Regardless; it's still on my list for my next light.
 
Another possibility for avoiding wasting light is a homemade conical reflector made from reflective silvered film.

If starting off with an uncreased piece recycled from food packaging (as on UK crisps/US chips), after degreasing with hand dishwashing liquid it's possible to make a relatively flaw-free cone which throws otherwise wasted light roughly forwards to brighten the centre of the beam while still keeping an essentially flood feel - being conical, the reflector doesn't really focus as such.

It's not a pure naked flood and might look a little rough against a flat wall, but even a tiny conical reflector of roughly 90 degree angle can save a serious amount of light.
For some twin-beam lights I make, I use ones made from rings with initial 8mm outside/4mm inside radius on the flood LED, and that gives something like a 100-200% boost of output in the general forward direction. Final dimensions are about 11mm across the front and 4mm deep.
Playing around with different sizes and angles might be worth trying.
 
How does it feel on a bare head without using a hard had??

What is the approx color temperature of the NW?
 
What is the approx color temperature of the NW?

SX5 uses Cree XML T5 (neutral) and T6 (cool), color temp ranges published here.

Interestingly, this same fact sheet says the T6 has a CRI of 65 and the T5 has a CRI of 75.
 
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Another possibility for avoiding wasting light is a homemade conical reflector made from reflective silvered film...

Hey thanks for the info, and the inspiration, Caver. I have been wanting to try a conical reflector. Let me get you a photo of the light, as there are some prominent solder points I'd have to negotiate around. But this sounds very interesting and promising to me...I think I'll make a paper one first, in any case... as a pattern if nothing else.
 
It can be fiddly to make small ones, depending how delicate your fingers are and how fine your co-ordination is.

Roughly speaking, if a ring of material has a ~4mm inside radius, when rolled into a 90 degree cone it leaves a hole just about big enough to drop over the square of an XP-G.
I scribe inner and outer rings with a pair of compasses (after taping the clean sheet of material to a cutting mat), and then cut out the rings with scissors and remove a 90 degree segment from the ring, so if there was a small crease on the ring before cutting, I make sure that ends up in the lost quarter.
I stick a tiny piece of sellotape on one of the open ends of the ring and then fold the ring into a cone and secure with the loose end of the tape, which is the tricky part. Tweezers will be useful here for small reflectors (I make quite a few, so I eventually gave up on tweezers and whittled a cone from wood to form the cones on).
After getting the ring aligned, I trim off excess to leave a small overlap (a big overlap tends to flatten out the cone) and fix the ring with a miniscule smear of epoxy in the overlap, placed with a fine piece of wire.
I permanently fix my reflectors to the LED MCPCB with epoxy, but for a temporary fitting I'd probably roll one deep enough to be held in by the front lens.
 
What is DC-fix?

It's a plastic film with a sand-like texture and adhesive on one side, made to be put on windows to blur out anything you see through them. Kind of like how those old shower walls are made, if that makes sense. You can cut circles out of it that match the size of the lens of a light and then peel the backing off to apply the film. Essentially makes the glass 'frosted' and disperses the light more evenly across the angle of the beam. You can find it with a quick google search, and Phaserburn, one of the members here, sells single sheets of it, which you can order directly from him.
 
Also as an update did the light give you any warning as the batteries get low, or does it just cut out if you've had a chance to run it down yet?

Been running the light on high to run down the cells, and it finally happened. I was using the 4th highest setting (170 lm) and suddenly I found myself in utter darkness, no warning. (Startling, and not in a good way.) I reached up and turned the light on again, and got another minute at 170lm, then it extinguished again. So I lit it back up to the 55 lm setting, and it shone merrily for another 30 or 40 minutes.

So while there is no graceful step-down as there should be, there is a sort of manual step-down, if you will. When the light winks out at a high setting, there's still plenty of juice to run the lower settings for quite a while.

It's a plastic film with a sand-like texture and adhesive on one side...

And, for some reason, is much more efficient than other textured films. I've tried the privacy film for windows sold at HD, and DC-fix just robs fewer lumens.
 
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There's other stuff out there too, that's made to be optically correct and also results in very little light loss. I bought a couple of sheets of it online over a year ago, but honestly can't remember where I got it. All I remember is the website where I got it had some images showing no noticeable reduction in illumination with the film on the lens of various lights. It has a finer grain to it than DC-fix though, so it doesn't spread the hot-spot quite as much. I also have found the backing on the adhesive of DC-fix is a little easier to remove. Overall, I prefer DC-fix.
 
Been running the light on high to run down the cells, and it finally happened. I was using the 4th highest setting (170 lm) and suddenly I found myself in utter darkness, no warning. (Startling, and not in a good way.) I reached up and turned the light on again, and got another minute at 170lm, then it extinguished again. So I lit it back up to the 55 lm setting, and it shone merrily for another 30 or 40 minutes.

So while there is no graceful step-down as there should be, there is a sort of manual step-down, if you will. When the light winks out at a high setting, there's still plenty of juice to run the lower settings for quite a while.

Odd; my ST5 doesn't do that, it just dims down to the next level. That would be bothersome. I wonder if the ST6 acts the same way as the ST5, or if it behaves like the SX5 when the cell depletes.

Anyone here know if the ST6-460nw steps down, or shuts off, when the cell depletes? Thanks in advance!
 
Another session in an attic, more whacking of the battery pack on the joists, and I finally climbed down and retrieved my SD52 to finish the job. I'm going to have to invest in the longer cable, and figure out how to hang the battery pack from my belt, because that battery "tube" is just too high profile for use in tight quarters.

That's not ALL bad. If I hang the battery pack from the belt, I'm tempted to try the 26650 Li-Ion. Any recommendations on cell or charger for 26650? Doesn't 4-sevens sell a charger?
 
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Another session in an attic, more whacking of the battery pack on the joists, and I finally climbed down and retrieved my SD52 to finish the job. I'm going to have to invest in the longer cable, and figure out how to hang the battery pack from my belt, because that battery "tube" is just too high profile for use in tight quarters.

That's not ALL bad. If I hang the battery pack from the belt, I'm tempted to try the 26650 Li-Ion. Any recommendations on cell or charger for 26650? Doesn't 4-sevens sell a charger?

I look forward to more review on this light, I believe the nitecore intellicharger v2, the 2 cell charger does 26650
 
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