Spartanian II Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES, COMPARISONS, etc.

matrixshaman

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Excellent review, I'm very intrigued with this new control style and what it means ergonomically speaking. One of the biggest advantages to the rear clicky is that you always know where the switch is. The ring switch of the S2 eliminates that question while still allowing you to carry the light in a more relaxed position. very interesting in concept and I can't wait to see it in practice.

I definitely agree with you however in the desire to see CR123A support. I use them exclusively at the moment. It may be time to look into some RCR's. It is always a big bonus though to be able to pop in a primary if the rechargeable dies and you don't have time to recharge or have a backup ready.

Just a little thought to the logic flaw there. If your primary dies then you have to have a primary battery as backup to keep using it. So either way you need a backup - might as well be a rechargeable so we can quit dumping in the landfills. I've gone almost totally Recharageable and have enough so I've always got a backup and enough chargers that will run on almost anything from AC to 12V to solar so no reason for having a bunch of primaries sitting around gathering dust. Get some RCR's - you'll be glad you did and you've got guilt free lumens :)

Now for you selfbuilt - you've really got to stop doing these reviews! They are like a super AD and are doing serious damage to my wallet
:broke: but happy :laughing:
 

selfbuilt

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Now for you selfbuilt - you've really got to stop doing these reviews! They are like a super AD and are doing serious damage to my wallet :broke: but happy :laughing:
Although I know that was meant as a tongue-in-cheek compliment, I should re-iterate for the newer members here that it's never my intention to serve as an ad for any particular light or company. :)

I'm all about providing objective test data in a consistent manner between lights, to let users make their own decisions according to what features matter to them. Although I do make some subjective/personal comments at the end of my reviews, these are just my personal opinions (and are intended more as an aid in helping you decide if a light is right for you). I've yet to come across a "perfect" or "ultimate" light in any category, but I do like to give credit when I see innovative solutions being offered. As always though, you need to be balance that against other limitations or design choices that may not suit your particular use/need.

FYI, this is also why I don't use a fixed point/star rating system or value-for-money analysis. Those are certainly very useful when trying to rapidly drill down to a conclusion about a light ... but I find it very hard to do those objectively, so I prefer to leave that personal decision up to each of you. And of course, all of this is typically based on n=1 sample light, so you need to take all the results with a great big grain of salt.

Short version response: I guess you are going to continue to be stuck with my rather verbose descriptions. :laughing:

FYI, I also think the real value of CPF is in the all the discussions that ensue following a review. For example, I can give the Spartanian makers personal feedback that I think CR123A support is important - but that's just one opinion. If this is a broader concern to the community (which I think it is), then the responses here and in other threads should make that view clear fairly quickly. Internet democracy in action ... :whistle:
 
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matrixshaman

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I was of course just razzing you about it being an Ad - and we all totally appreciate the hard work you do in putting together some of the best reviews on CPF. I've just been on a buying binge lately and had to find some one to blame it on :lolsign:

Keep up the great work :thumbsup:
 

TITAN1833

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selfbuilt great review as always. :)

With the absence of a lanyard attatment,I'm thinking would one of thesefit would the tail tighten down enough for the light to come on:thinking:

[edited]sorry I forgot to mention the ID of the ring.
size is 23.5mm ID x 1mm thick. :)
 
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selfbuilt

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With the absence of a lanyard attatment,I'm thinking would one of thesefit would the tail tighten down enough for the light to come on:thinking:
[edited]sorry I forgot to mention the ID of the ring.
size is 23.5mm ID x 1mm thick. :)
Well, it would fit, but then you wouldn't be able to turn on the light. :rolleyes:

The S2 is only 21.0mm across at the point just below the o-ring but before the raised "lip" of the body (which itself is 26.0mm - and is flush with the tailcap when closed). So yes, it would fit (albeit loosely when tailcap is unscrewed).

Spa-7.jpg


But unfortunately, you would be breaking contact with the tailcap (i.e. tailcap threads are anodized), so you wouldn't be able to turn on the light. To compensate, you would need to put a 1mm contact disc (i.e. equivalent height to the ring) in the tailcap.

And I should warn you that tolerances are pretty tight - a miniscule unscrewing of the tailcap right now, and it goes off.
 

TITAN1833

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Titan, Neoseikan says he is working on the lanyard attachment problem: link
Thanks yes I know, I was looking into another way..just in case neoseikan cant get one added.:twothumbs

Also I don't like those little holes they call lanyard attatachments.I have those on my DBS :sick:
I use the ring instead.
 
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guiri

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#1 - this is a thrower, so why is there a need for such a low level of output?

Here's why.

You have this light with you and something happens and you're in an extreme survival situation where you will be stuck somewhere for days. That's when you'll feel the need for the super low level.

Situation number two. You run into an emergency thing like above and you really don't have much battery left in the light. The low level CAN be useful and save your butt.

Personally, I've started rethinking buying lights that are say above 50 bucks each. If they don't have a super low level, I won't buy them.

Then if I have one or two extra batteries and one of these lights, I can go pretty much anywhere and have workable light for days and if not weeks.

George
 

SaturnNyne

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From L4 through L13 (i.e. the 10 highest output levels), I can detect no sign of PWM flicker by eye or through my setup. Neoseikan confirms the light uses a standard current-controlled mechanism in this range.

On the lowest three output levels (L1 to L3), PWM is detectable (although not overly obtrusive) at a measured freq of 127Hz in my sample. . .By combining both into one circuit, the Spartanian II gets the best of both worlds. This is the first time I've come across with this interesting combination.
Isn't this much like the setup used by HDS for more than half a decade, except constant current instead of constant power? That's the impression I got.

But even more impressive is its low mode - it can actually go slightly lower than my Novatac 120P (which has a lowest setting of 0.08 lumens). In fact, based on the calibration of my lightbox using the 120P, I'd estimate the Spartanian II's lowest level to be ~ 0.06 lumens!
If you're using the 120P to calibrate, your lightbox estimates are unlikely to be very accurate because NovaTacs tend to not be accurately calibrated. To begin with, they do not actually get anywhere near the claimed 0.08lm rating; this is true for my light and Henry himself has confirmed that it's true for all samples he has. Based on my own testing, I estimate it's easily twice that, 0.16+. Based on your numbers, I think you'd find true 0.08 would be quite a bit lower than the S2 is reaching. To further mess up your calibration, I've found that the calibration on my particular light goes from under-rating to over-rating somewhere in its range, though I haven't yet tested enough to find where that crossover occurs. Based on direct bounce comparison against both HDS and Ra lights (which proved to be identically calibrated), the NT's "0.08" is actually 0.16 or more, but "60" is closer to 42 and "120" seems to also fall a little short.


Quibbles aside, thank you for another excellent review, very complete.
 

selfbuilt

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If you're using the 120P to calibrate, your lightbox estimates are unlikely to be very accurate because NovaTacs tend to not be accurately calibrated.
Yeah, that's why I always make the point of adding the proviso that any of my estimated lumen values only hold if you accept the 120P specs. It's also why I continue to post only my actual relative output values on my Y-axis scales, rather than an estimated lumen count.

Frankly, until someone sets up a calibrated integrating sphere where I can send my lights for comparison, I have no good way to relate my lightbox ROVs. Not that it really matters, since the relative relationships on my output scale seem pretty linear.

Thanks for the insight into the HDS/Novatacs.
 

SnWnMe

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Interesting light. I'm not up to speed on the state of development and I don't really feel like reading the preorder megathread so I'll just ask my go or no go question: Did Neo add CR123 support?
 

TITAN1833

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Interesting light. I'm not up to speed on the state of development and I don't really feel like reading the preorder megathread so I'll just ask my go or no go question: Did Neo add CR123 support?
Hi I have been following the MP thread and from what I gather it does not support primaries.
 
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