Spy Questions
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I have a new Spy 007 question for other owners out there: Does your Spy007 have a strange outer glowing ring when you shine your light at a white wall? I'll work on getting a screen shot to more clearly demonstrate it but it appears that the bezel on my Spy 007 is too tall or something like that. There is the normal "edge" of the beam pattern and then beyond that (when viewing on a white wall) there is a very thin white outer ring well beyond the black edge of the beam pattern and its best described as a "halo effect" around the beam pattern. When I remove the bezel the halo goes away. The halo is clearly a reflection from the edge of the bezel as I can block a small part of the halo using my finger tip and the halo is blocked on the exact 180 degree opposite side of the image. Anyone else notice this effect? It detracts from the otherwise flawless beam of the Spy 007.
Here are the screen shots that demonstrate the halo effect of the bezel on my Spy 007. Spy was placed approx 9 inches away from a white wall and then turned on to Level 4 (factory default settings).
With bezel:
no bezel:
If you want to see the images in full res the links are:
bezel.jpg
http://www.terrychan.com/tchan/cimg0892.jpg
and nobezel.jpg
http://www.terrychan.com/tchan/cimg0893.jpg
Look for the glowing edge past the dark part that surrounds the regular beam in the bezel shot.
With bezel:
no bezel:
If you want to see the images in full res the links are:
bezel.jpg
http://www.terrychan.com/tchan/cimg0892.jpg
and nobezel.jpg
http://www.terrychan.com/tchan/cimg0893.jpg
Look for the glowing edge past the dark part that surrounds the regular beam in the bezel shot.
PoliceScannerMan
Flashaholic
Do you notice it in real use? I have never noticed a Halo on either of my 007's. :thinking:
The "real" use where I've noticed the halo is when I'm using my Spy007 indoors. The halo is quite noticeable and detracting from my beam. Yes, outdoors its not noticeable because of the distances involved. So that probably means anything over 6ft away and the halo is too difuse to really be noticed unless I look hard for it. Closer than that distance and then yes, the halo is clearly visible and I think it shouldn't be there. Like I said the halo is not there when the bezel is removed. In fact if my bezel were just shorter by even 1mm (probably even less) then the halo would probably go away.
tino_ale
Flashlight Enthusiast
tpchan, I don't see how you could prevent the ring from reflecting the light and producing this halo. Maybe bead blasting the ID surface of the ring would do the trick, but I'm not sure. It will affect the look of your light too.
Morelite
Flashlight Enthusiast
An inside chanfer cut on the ring would probably remove the halo effect but it would also make the leading edge of the ring very thin and that would make it harder to install or remove. I tried switching bezel rings between the 005 and 007 but have been unable to remove the 007 ring. The 005 bezel ring does have an inside taper towards the front and it also has a outer lip to seat on the heads outer edge.
A black sharpie marker coud be used to coat the inner surface of the ring to see if that helps, though that may be ugly looking it will remove the halo effect and can be wiped off later.
A black sharpie marker coud be used to coat the inner surface of the ring to see if that helps, though that may be ugly looking it will remove the halo effect and can be wiped off later.
I still think the halo would be minimized if the bezel were just a tiny fraction shorter. That's why I asked other Spy007 owners if their lights had the halo present or not. I suspect the bezel on my Spy007 is just slightly taller than it should be compared to other bezels where the halo is not as noticeable or even present.
tino_ale
Flashlight Enthusiast
I just checked and my SPY does have this halo too. I honestly never noticed this before and it doesn't bother me at all. First because the halo is "clean" and even, second because in actual use it goes unoticed by me.
I would be surprised if all bezel rings were not all made to the same lenght within tight tolerances. They were made on CNC machines and unless the program has been changed or an operator error I can't see how they would be of different lenght.
The more I think about it the more I think a deep dark bead blasting of the inner ID of the ring would provide the most clean look if you really needed to avoid this halo. Not reversible though.
I would be surprised if all bezel rings were not all made to the same lenght within tight tolerances. They were made on CNC machines and unless the program has been changed or an operator error I can't see how they would be of different lenght.
The more I think about it the more I think a deep dark bead blasting of the inner ID of the ring would provide the most clean look if you really needed to avoid this halo. Not reversible though.
easilyled
Flashaholic
I don't see this halo on either of my 2 SPY007s.
tpchan, are you sure you have tightened the bezel-ring as much as possible?
It can be tightened by placing the bezel-ring (while attached to the light) on the rubber sole of a shoe firmly
and then rotating the rest of the light clockwise.
If the halo is still there, then maybe the bezel-ring could be very slightly shortened by sanding the edge with the screw thread.
Obviously you should check with Data before doing this, I'm only trying to come up with helpful suggestions to eliminate the halo.
tpchan, are you sure you have tightened the bezel-ring as much as possible?
It can be tightened by placing the bezel-ring (while attached to the light) on the rubber sole of a shoe firmly
and then rotating the rest of the light clockwise.
If the halo is still there, then maybe the bezel-ring could be very slightly shortened by sanding the edge with the screw thread.
Obviously you should check with Data before doing this, I'm only trying to come up with helpful suggestions to eliminate the halo.
Yes, my bezel is as tight as I can make it with the rubber sole shoe method. In fact, I too thought the bezel was loose and therefore "sticking out too far" but that was not the case. My bezel is definitely sticking farther out than other Spy007 owners, at least from what I can eyeball from viewing all the other nice pictures in the Spy007 pictures thread.
I've even thought about sanding the edge with the screw thread -- great minds think alike 🙂 but I wanted to wait and see if Data had any comments first. That and if the bezel is also made of titanium, I don't think sand paper will do much to the screw thread ends....
I just used my metric calipers (accurate to 0.02mm) and when my bezel is fully tight it rises 1.3mm above the Spy007 body's edge. With the bezel removed, the calipers say the total height of the bezel is 4.18mm. Would someone else measure their bezel and see what numbers they find, especially someone with "no halo ring"? Thanks!
Morelite
Flashlight Enthusiast
I get 1.11mm from the head and 4.03mm OA.
All the 005's and 007's have shiny bezels with a flat ID surface. Direct light from the emitter falls on it. They all create a halo. It is not about how long the bezel is because it is bathed in light on it's entire ID surface, not just the tip.
To get rid of the halo you could put a piece of masking tape around the ID or paint it with clear rubber cement or something to cut its reflectivity. Even clear scotch tape with a "flat" surface will make the surface non-reflective.
Cutting the bezel shorter will not help. All the bezel rings are made on my Mori Seiki CNC lathe. They are all the same dimensions. The back edge is uber flat, if you sand that you could end up creating a pressure point that would crack the lens.
Any variation on how far the bezel sticks out is due mostly to the varying thickness of the glass.
Cheers
Dave
To get rid of the halo you could put a piece of masking tape around the ID or paint it with clear rubber cement or something to cut its reflectivity. Even clear scotch tape with a "flat" surface will make the surface non-reflective.
Cutting the bezel shorter will not help. All the bezel rings are made on my Mori Seiki CNC lathe. They are all the same dimensions. The back edge is uber flat, if you sand that you could end up creating a pressure point that would crack the lens.
Any variation on how far the bezel sticks out is due mostly to the varying thickness of the glass.
Cheers
Dave
Others may want to chime in here but the key differences as far as I'm aware are as follows;
- U2SW0H emitter (first run USW0H) and is a nicer tint IMHO.
- Easiliy activated low power lock - so if the Spy is activated inadvertantly in your pocket it will do so at a much reduced output thus as to not waste batteries.
- Less travel in the switch when switching through levels.
Morelite
Flashlight Enthusiast
Dave,
Would it be possible to buy a blank SSC heatsink for the 007? I recently bought a few of the SSC warm whites (3000k) and a few natural whites (4000K) and built them into Aleph light engines and really fell in love with the warm tints of these emitters and would like to put one in the SPY. I really should get a heatsink and converter that way the original can stay intact for future re-installment.
Would it be possible to buy a blank SSC heatsink for the 007? I recently bought a few of the SSC warm whites (3000k) and a few natural whites (4000K) and built them into Aleph light engines and really fell in love with the warm tints of these emitters and would like to put one in the SPY. I really should get a heatsink and converter that way the original can stay intact for future re-installment.
