SSC P7 - P60 drop in

old4570

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Feb 15, 2009
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LED is SSC P7 C-bin from my MTE flashlight ..
I removed the LED from the star , superglued the base to isolate it , then used non conductive thermal paste .

P60 pill is an old Luxeon one .. Modified etc

Driver came from my DX MC-E drop in ..[ only one I had ]

Output ATM is around R2 levels due to the lousy driver [ Still waiting on better drivers ]

Still , not bad for an experiment , hope to do this again with a D bin P7 .

:thinking: :D
 
SSC P7 @ 1.35A at the tail ... 18650 [ Ultrafire 502B ]


Ultrafire A20 Q5 RCR123A


Solarforce L2 R2 18650
 
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If it draws 2.5~3.5A at the tail a lower level would help the light cool and recover.

In MrGman testing the P60 P7 drop-in made by Nailbender running UCL lens in a Surefire 6P and a single IMR 18650 did 356 Lumens out the front. This was at 2.8A at the tail. If you are getting similar current readings it is very likely you have a 350 lumen torch.:D

KRAMER5150,
If you have a P7 P60 drop-in with one of your 1.4A drivers it would be good to see what it does in a Lumens sphere test. I bet the numbers will be above 300 lumens out the front, with none of the wasted heat the 2.5~3.5A P60 P7 variations offer.

Let me know if you have one made and we can test it:poke: If the P7 P60 at 1.4A does 350 Lumens out the front this would allow us to run it longer on high, less battery sag, longer runtimes, and longer LED life.

thanks,
bigchelis
 
@ 1.35A my best guess is 200Lumen ATM [ measured at the tail ]

So what the LED is getting ? + this driver is not so good . [ Original DX MC-E driver ] It was never able to deliver more than 1.35A measured at the tail .

I left the gap alone since it has such a nice beam , in fact I think ill leave it as is , the output is just right for indoors/outdoors use , even on the lo setting its very nice . It almost looks defused , if I can say that .

I have a D-bin SSC P7 on the way + Drivers/controllers + some more empty pills ...

But as I said , this under driven SSC P7 , Im starting to like it .

HEAT ! = Yes with extended run time it gets warm , but not really any more than a R2 due to the lower output , so in a P60 host , I dont see a problem , until you drive it harder , then you may have problems .


All I can say is , I like it , I though I was going to hate the lower output , but its so nice , it really does a good job , there is not much throw to speak of due to the lack of a real hot spot , but it is still good out to maybe 50 yards or so . For around the house , under the hood of a car , caving , or similar , very nice ... Deff no spotlight/searchlight , but very nice for a flashlight .
 
If it draws 2.5~3.5A at the tail a lower level would help the light cool and recover.

In MrGman testing the P60 P7 drop-in made by Nailbender running UCL lens in a Surefire 6P and a single IMR 18650 did 356 Lumens out the front. This was at 2.8A at the tail. If you are getting similar current readings it is very likely you have a 350 lumen torch.:D

KRAMER5150,
If you have a P7 P60 drop-in with one of your 1.4A drivers it would be good to see what it does in a Lumens sphere test. I bet the numbers will be above 300 lumens out the front, with none of the wasted heat the 2.5~3.5A P60 P7 variations offer.

Let me know if you have one made and we can test it:poke: If the P7 P60 at 1.4A does 350 Lumens out the front this would allow us to run it longer on high, less battery sag, longer runtimes, and longer LED life.

thanks,
bigchelis

This one is 1.35A @ the tail , as for Lumen , best Guess is around 200L .
So depending on how bad the driver is , at one amp to the driver , we should see 250Lumen at the LED , less lens loss , hmmm .

Just a bad driver ... For forward current .
 
I built a second one , SSC P7 D-Bin .. OP reflector ..
Its doing 1.75A at the tail or 1.57A to the LED , as near as I can work out its doing about 450Lumen out the front of my Ultrafire 501B [ 18650 ]
 
Thanks. What is the voltage bin of your D flux bin P7?

I see that your driver is a PWM controlled, direct drive board. If you don't need the multimodes from the PWM controller, you probably can buy for even less cost (or use an existing board) any sacrificial 17mm driver board, de-populate it, and use it as a blank for direct drive.
 
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