Standing wave of Sapphire 25's , GS and now High CRI

Wurkkos

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Good points I had not thought of.
They really are great lights. Don't need two but wanted two. Maybe three.
 

Nimitz68

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My High CRI Sapphire GS 5600K is on its way. Thanks Don for the super fast turnaround! Really looking forward to this as it will be my first Sapphire (and first McGizmo, as well) light.
 
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KGauss

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Beautiful Saphphire 25 with high cree 3200K 45. Makes a lovely little accent pocket light for macro shots, EDC and key ring.

Thanks Don.
 

fyrstormer

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Can anyone post a comparison photo between the Yuji 3200K, Yuki 5600K, Nichia DS, and Nichia GS? Personally I already know what the DS vs. GS looks like, but it would be nice to see all of the currently-available options lined up next to each other on a white background.
 

nbp

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Hey Don, thanks again for repairing my Sapphire with the new Yuji 5600k LE. This is a great emitter! Very smooth beam, just a tough of throw (for a 5mm), and excellent clean white tint. I think this is just about as good as it gets from a 5mm. Thanks for offering these!
 

jon_slider

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Can anyone post a comparison photo between the Yuji 3200K, Yuki 5600K, Nichia DS, and Nichia GS? Personally I already know what the DS vs. GS looks like, but it would be nice to see all of the currently-available options lined up next to each other on a white background.

I dont have them in Sapphires, but until someone posts more complete info

here are my Sofirn (gave away the 3200, so cant show you now w the Fenix GS)
U9AOvSe.jpg

I suspect the Sapphire might have a less pronounced hotspot when using the Yujis. The Sofirn reflectors are pretty shiny, and create the hotspot. The Yuji in a non reflective head (such as the Sapphire maybe?) has imo a much nicer beam, with no hotspot. The Yuji LED already has a very nice aspheric lens built right on to it.

I use my 5600k more than my 3200k, during the day
the reverse is true for me at night

and here the 3000k E21a, 5600k Yuji, and a Fenix E01 w Nichia GS LED, the 3200k Yuji is very similar to the E21a
PIceMmy.jpg


The GS in the Fenix has a more pronounced hotspot, it throws more, and has a beautiful purple tint! ;-)
 
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monty94

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New to McGizmos and the forums, sorry if this is in the wrong place:

Do the "new" McGizmo heads work with the older PD designs? For example, if I have a TI-PD, can I swap to the newer, brighter McGizmo LEDs out now but retain the piston drive switch?
 

archimedes

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New to McGizmos and the forums, sorry if this is in the wrong place:

Do the "new" McGizmo heads work with the older PD designs? For example, if I have a TI-PD, can I swap to the newer, brighter McGizmo LEDs out now but retain the piston drive switch?

Hello and welcome to CPF, @monty94

I have approved your post above, but yes, this is not really in the correct thread.

You have posted in the Sapphire thread (not one of the PD threads)

To answer briefly, however, the PD models can be "modded" but updates are not as easy as with the newer and more modular designs. And parts for these different lines are not interchangeable.

None of these really have anything to do with the Sapphire though, so further discussion should be taken to the appropriate thread(s)

Thanks, and cheers :)
 

RCS1300

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Don:

Was wondering if you had any interest in creating a small run of Anodized Sapphires with the High CRI 5600K Yuji LED emitters?

I currently have one of your titanium Sapphires and think it is the best pocket carry light I have ever owned or seen. Would like to have an extra special one. Below is a picture of my Sapphire among my HDS collection and two pictures of the Anodized Sapphire I saw online recently.

Sapphire with my HDS collection:
sapphire-with-hds-titanium.jpg


Anodized Sapphire I found online:
sapphire-anodized-1.jpg


sapphire-anodized-4.jpg
 
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F89

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You could anodise your own sapphire quickly and easily with a few basic things you may have around the house.
A handful or so (depending on desired colour) of 9v batteries, a plastic container filled with water mixed with bicarb soda, some wires and a chunk of something (piece of metal, old carabiner etc) as a cathode and away you go.
You'll be surprised at the results you can achieve.
 

RCS1300

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You could anodise your own sapphire quickly and easily with a few basic things you may have around the house.
A handful or so (depending on desired colour) of 9v batteries, a plastic container filled with water mixed with bicarb soda, some wires and a chunk of something (piece of metal, old carabiner etc) as a cathode and away you go.
You'll be surprised at the results you can achieve.

Don creates the value in the process. The color on the Sapphire done by Don in post 314 is outstanding.
 

archimedes

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F89

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Don creates the value in the process. The color on the Sapphire done by Don in post 314 is outstanding.

Not quite sure exactly what your saying but I can assure you that you could achieve excellent results yourself with very little effort. Sure it'd help to have all the right gear, variable power supply etc but I've created professional results with an array of 9v batteries myself.
Is there no value in doing it yourself, perhaps upon a resale to state that Don himself did it?
Anyway, if you're at all interested give it a go a clip or something. Polished/smoth titanium takes on a more dramatic colour and sheen than bead blasted etc.
 

McGizmo

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I have offered to do a blue Sapphire to a few folks who got UV Sapphires from me and I offered the color as an easy means of identifying the UV from a white LED source. I have played a bit with flame anodize as well as electrical anodize but I don't offer it as an option in general for a number of reasons. First and foremost is that aside from identifying a UV source for instance, anodize is a cosmetic finish and one that can and will wear off in time with significant use and my intent of for the lights is to be used. I encourage folks to do their own anodizing if it is something they want because they then are in a position to redo the anodize down the road if they want to touch up the wear areas. I realize the for some folks the appearance of the light is more important than its function and there are lights being offered with a primary focus on looks. Some people would be very happy with an anodized blue light regardless of its hue whereas others would want the blue to be darker or lighter and I am not interested in opening a door where this is the topic of discussion. I want my lights to be able to dependably allow a person to illuminate a subject of interest and in many cases with true color rendering with the color or appearance of the light itself not a factor at all when it counts. If someone wants a blue Sapphire and they will take what ever hue of blue they get and accept that it will ultimately wear off, no problem. And as F89 has stated, they can do this themselves without much effort and be able to retouch as needed.
 

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