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McGizmo Standing wave of Sapphire 25's , GS and now High CRI

nbp

Flashaholic
Joined
Dec 16, 2007
Messages
10,970
Location
Wisconsin
Somewhere in the McG pix thread you can find a clicky pak I flame anodized that turned out really nicely. It has held up very well too. And that Haiku is full on user so it has not been babied. The Sapphire body tube would be very easy to torch. And I'm sure Don could provide instructions on how to pull the guts out of the head to torch that too.

Edit: photbucket has apparently reduced resolution and watermarked all my photos on here which is really annoying. But you can get an idea.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/4494147
 
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F89

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 15, 2014
Messages
1,420
Somewhere in the McG pix thread you can find a clicky pak I flame anodized that turned out really nicely. It has held up very well too. And that Haiku is full on user so it has not been babied. The Sapphire body tube would be very easy to torch. And I'm sure Don could provide instructions on how to pull the guts out of the head to torch that too.

Edit: photbucket has apparently reduced resolution and watermarked all my photos on here which is really annoying. But you can get an idea.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/4494147

I have no idea if flame vs electrical anodising is more durable?
Going the electrical route you have more control over colour as it changes with voltage making it easy to get solid colours,fades or even by attaching a brush for more intricate patterns. The higher the voltage the thicker the layer I believe but it's generally so thin it really shouldn't matter.
When I used to carry other lights I had titanium Prometheus clips which I polished and anodised which didn't get a single scratch in use although it's easy enough to redo them.
Another point with flame vs electrical is that you can dunk or paint a complete light no problem, doing that with flame will obviously cook the insides (electronics etc). I've done some AAA lights dunking the whole thing or in stages for fades.
 
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desert.snake

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Joined
May 8, 2017
Messages
2,057
Location
Eastern Europe
I have no idea if flame vs electrical anodising is more durable?

In normal use, I did not notice the difference between flame treatment and electricity. Maybe tests in laboratory will show that one of them is more durable. My keys in pockets don't notice the difference and scratch equally.

This burner is processed. I had a Hinderer with electric anodized scales, I sold it, deterioration was the same, unfortunately, I can not find old photo.

IMG-2158.jpg
 

Newguy2012

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
392
Is this light still available in yuji 5600k 60d? What should I put in the subject line for this option?
 

F89

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Joined
Mar 15, 2014
Messages
1,420
Is this light still available in yuji 5600k 60d? What should I put in the subject line for this option?

I'm pretty sure that's the standard HCRI LED for this light, and available. Sapphire HCRI 5600K should be enough info.
 

Newguy2012

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
392
The light has been on sale since 2009. Anyone here has the light more than 3years? How reliable is the light's operation? I read in the past a few users crushed their battery in the original Arc. Someone mention dirt builds up in the ARC threads cause flickering problems which led the users to crush the battery from overtightening. Do I need to clean the threads regular to prevent that? or Is it a non-issue with titanium and the new driver?
 

McGizmo

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Joined
May 1, 2002
Messages
17,290
Location
Maui
The light has been on sale since 2009. Anyone here has the light more than 3years? How reliable is the light's operation? I read in the past a few users crushed their battery in the original Arc. Someone mention dirt builds up in the ARC threads cause flickering problems which led the users to crush the battery from overtightening. Do I need to clean the threads regular to prevent that? or Is it a non-issue with titanium and the new driver?


The new converter does not have this flickering issue and the titanium oxide, unlike aluminum oxide is electrically conductive. I am not aware of any issues with the threads impairing the function of the light.
 

Lightwise

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 10, 2009
Messages
31
Do you have any Sapphire 25's or GS for sale at this time? Can you list what is available and how do I order one. Many thanks, Louis
 

McGizmo

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Joined
May 1, 2002
Messages
17,290
Location
Maui
Do you have any Sapphire 25's or GS for sale at this time? Can you list what is available and how do I order one. Many thanks, Louis


I still have some of the other LED's but since I got the High CRI Yuji LED's that has been no requests for earlier generation LED's and I see no justification to not go with the Yuji. If you want a Sapphire, send me an email request. Thanks!
 

foxracer72

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
98
My original sapphire has died, noticed a rattle and the led was easy to take out and a small round black part was off its housing...not sure what's it called.....is it possible to buy a new led I can put in? Email in original post is not working for me since it's a link..any help would be fantastic this light lives on my keys and need to get it working again ;)
[h=2][/h]
 

F89

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 15, 2014
Messages
1,420
Hi Don,

Are there any of the 3200K, 45 degree left?
 

faco

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 24, 2006
Messages
387
Location
Australia
Just received my Sapphire High CRI 3200k 45deg and it's absolutely perfect in every way.

Thanks Don, perfect transaction as always :)
 
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