Streamlight Ultra Stinger weak beam, very weak?

Bonedoc

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It is an old light granted. I have had it sitting unused and decided to try and Resuscitate it. Bought a nicad to replace the original Mod 25170 with a Kastar Rechargeable Ni-MH 6.0 V supposedly made for the Ultra Stinger (I am concerned about the nomenclature of NiMH (I understood that the Ni-MH would work in the Stinger). It charged up or the charger (original) did indicate it was charged. Excitedly put the battery in and, ahhh crud, a weak beam... I mean just a tiny yellow incandescent ... oh well... so (1) how do I test the charger? Maybe it be bad?? Any other help is greatly appreciated. Like this old 'stick' and hope I can get it going. ALSO, as an aside is there an LED replacement for the inc bulb? Thanks!
 

vicv

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It is an old light granted. I have had it sitting unused and decided to try and Resuscitate it. Bought a nicad to replace the original Mod 25170 with a Kastar Rechargeable Ni-MH 6.0 V supposedly made for the Ultra Stinger (I am concerned about the nomenclature of NiMH (I understood that the Ni-MH would work in the Stinger). It charged up or the charger (original) did indicate it was charged. Excitedly put the battery in and, ahhh crud, a weak beam... I mean just a tiny yellow incandescent ... oh well... so (1) how do I test the charger? Maybe it be bad?? Any other help is greatly appreciated. Like this old 'stick' and hope I can get it going. ALSO, as an aside is there an LED replacement for the inc bulb? Thanks!
In my experience, it's not worth it getting aftermarket batteries for these. I also got a knock off battery, and was unimpressed with the beam. Then, I got a genuine battery from streamlight, and held the sun in my hand. Now, that knock - off won't light at all anymore, and the genuine is as good as new. Btw, I also have an LED polystinger. It's 8 years old. Original battery. Still gets 3H runtime. Same as when it was new. Just get a genuine battery. Spend once, cry once.
 
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ABTOMAT

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What voltage does the new battery measure at? Streamlight brand NiMH batteries work in old Ultra Stingers without any issue.
 

Bonedoc

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Thank you for the responses. The Kastar is registering 6.35 volts.. I did suspect the battery but it seems to be exhibiting good retention and voltage from the charge. The 'lamp' in the U Stinger just puts out a very poor beam, literally nothing. So wondering (correct me, is the Ultra Stinger a '3' part flashlight - the switch section, the battery section and the bulb section) if any of the segments might be testable... somehow.
The bulb looks good and I don't think it would put out anything if it were not 'good'.. like no part ways for it. Is the switch section unscrewable?
 

vicv

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The switch is removable. Those charging pins are screw. But the problem is your battery. Does it start out decent for a few seconds then dim immediately?
 

Lips

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My Kastar hovers at 6.77. Charger it 30min a day on a timer. Light is nice and bright...

IMG_8498.JPG
 

ABTOMAT

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Older Streamlight NiMH reads as 6.98v right off the charger. I'd assume your problem is battery related, although there's a tiny chance it's something else. Is there any leakage or corrosion on the spring terminals in the battery compartment?
 

alpg88

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One cell is shot, i had similar issue with a pump battery pack, it will show correct V with no load voltage, but once under load, one of the cells is not able to keep up. so you basically running on 4 cells. If you can ask for replacement battery from seller, or a refund. you could try 5 sub c cells, they really do not have be soldered into a pack they should work just fine as a set of individual cells.
 

alpg88

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i had a stinger it was a coax but i thought old US were top bottom, like MC,, Oh well then new battery.
 

ABTOMAT

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Every incan Stinger is based around the same parts, actually. The two batteries just differ in cell length.
Stinger
Stinger+turbo head=Stinger HP
Stinger-body switch+tailcap switch=Stinger XT
Stinger-body switch+tailcap switch+turbo head=Stinger XT HP
Stinger w/ long body=Super Stinger
Stinger w/ long body+turbo head=Ultra Stinger
Stinger w/ plastic body=Poly Stinger
 

Bonedoc

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Many thanks... got a bit to think about... Mistake - I said, "The Kastar is registering 6.35 volts.".. my second memory bank (wife) said, 'no,it
was 6.85' so I guess that is much better... The charge port/segment/section is 'screws'... so I understand they have to be unscrewed BEFORE that segment will disconnect? My concern is 'buying a factory battery' is about $40 and "IF" it doesn't fix that then I'm in the same place, want
to exhaust (but not sure how I can) test the parts (so we agree that the bulb is not possibly the problem, I mean it either does or does not and right now, even weak, it does turn on?
LIPS... thanks for the photo of setup, almost like mine... I have all my lights/chargers in one area in a work shop... BTW, 'Bill Pearl' ring a bell??

Thanks all!
 

vicv

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Yes. You need to unscrew those screws to remove the switch assembly. Do you have a hobby charger? If you do, you can test the battery. I understand not wanting to spend extra money troubleshooting the light. But what you're describing is a bad battery. Take a video and post it here. Then we can see exactly what it's doing
 

xxo

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Test the battery under load with a battery tester or a multi-meter and resistor.
 

Bonedoc

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I will make a video today... did clean the contacts and also double checked the barrel interior for anything sitting in there like a dead spider...
used a multi-meter for the voltage ... will post the video... also want to take a stab at charging the original.. many thanks.
 
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