Streamlight Ultrastinger - Bulb Retention?

Attrayant

Newly Enlightened
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Sep 4, 2007
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Hello all, I hope I'm posting this in the right forum.

I'm a LEO and I've been using a Streamlight Ultrastinger as my main on-duty light for almost a year now. It's a great light except for one thing. Several times now I've had to completely unscrew the head and apply light pressure to the bulb to pop it back in place. This has happened at the strangest times, usually while I'm in the middle of using it. The light will suddenly go out, causing me to twist the head in one direction or the other until it comes back on briefly, if it all. When taken apart, the bulb does not at glance appear loose.

Any suggestions on how to remedy this? Is this a flaw of the design in that it just isn't that durable? The light has already been back to Streamlight once. About two weeks after I purchased it, the bulb literally exploded while I was on a call. I enjoy using the light but this flaw, if that what it is, concerns me as I consider at a safety issue.

If I wear to replace it with a different light, anybody have any suggestions of a bright, durable duty light?

Thanks in advance.

Chris
 
I can't suggest a remedy except maybe clean the contacts but I can suggest a light.

How about the LED Pelican 7060? If you don't like LED, how about a comparable Wolfeye(no cradle charger though)?

Welcome to CPF!
 
Thanks for the welcome gunner and the recommendations! I'm not totally against LED, it's just "new ground" for me. I'm used to seeing the smaller LED lights without much throw, but I guess the technology has changed quite a bit. Kind of like the looks of the Pelican, a in-car charger is a must.
 
Here are some reviews of the Pelican 7060, Review with indoor and outdoor beamshots, Mini review, and another review.
A "real world" beamshot, the 7060 won't throw as far as the Ultrastinger but the Pelican is smaller.
I love/hate to watch the show cops. I call it the "just shoot 'em show" because the whole thime I watch it I am yelling, "just freakin shoot him!" I give it up to the people who serve and protect us who in my opinion must show waaaay too much restraint.

That being said, The 7060 has a lot of merits over any (at least stock) maglight. Expecially in constant levels of brightness. Here are some 85 yard shots I put in the led section but they dissipeared quickly. A mag light does not (especially at the 3 cell level) light up distant targets and their surroundings as well as the 7060. Nor do the new Inova lights.

New 3x123a 2007 Inova T3: Gate at 85 yards:
1178922373_1ed016d16e.jpg


Now the 7060 gate at 85 yards:
1179787838_2983cb1e96.jpg


A 2 or 3 cell mag is not going to light up the gate at this iistance or the surrounding area as well as the 7060 will do for a hour and a half. So I believe the 7060 leaves cops way better off than quickly dimming maglights. Now we just need courts that let cops do their difficult jobs without fear of getting sued because they broke a dangerous perps nail...or knee for that matter.:twothumbs After all, a well lit person makes a better target than a barely visible one.

How about the Surefire 10X Dominator? 500 lumen high and 60 lumen low but price is $400-$450
 
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One of two things. The bulb that is in the Ultra Stinger may have contact leads that are a little loose in the bulb socket, or the diameter of the bulb may be a little larger and is rubbing against the soft ring in the reflector. I had that problem using a Strion bulb in a Stinger. If you have a Streamlight repair station nearby, you might want to take it in there and have them take a look at it, as the other possibility may be worn contacts in the switch assembly that holds the bulb (which would require that the switch be replaced. My local Streamlight dealer, who is also the primary uniform supplier for most of the departments in this area, did mention that his most common repair item on the Stinger series of products was the switch assembly.

Several times now I've had to completely unscrew the head and apply light pressure to the bulb to pop it back in place. This has happened at the strangest times, usually while I'm in the middle of using it. The light will suddenly go out, causing me to twist the head in one direction or the other until it comes back on briefly, if it all. When taken apart, the bulb does not at glance appear loose.

Chris
 
Thanks Brighteyez, I'll have to play with the contacts and see if that fixes it. Repair station is about an hour away according to Streamlight's website. If that doesn't fix ti I may have to run it down there.

Love the SureFire line, I keep a Z2 on my duty belt as backup, but the 10X is a little out of my price range.

The 7060 is appealing and the beamshots don't look half bad. Streamlight is saying the Ultrastinger comes in at around 295 lumens while the Pelican is at 130. Seems like a large hit I'd be taking. Love to see some comparisons between the two if anyone has both.

What's a good dealer to go to for the Pelican if I decided to go that route?

One of two things. The bulb that is in the Ultra Stinger may have contact leads that are a little loose in the bulb socket, or the diameter of the bulb may be a little larger and is rubbing against the soft ring in the reflector. I had that problem using a Strion bulb in a Stinger. If you have a Streamlight repair station nearby, you might want to take it in there and have them take a look at it, as the other possibility may be worn contacts in the switch assembly that holds the bulb (which would require that the switch be replaced. My local Streamlight dealer, who is also the primary uniform supplier for most of the departments in this area, did mention that his most common repair item on the Stinger series of products was the switch assembly.
 
Question: Is the spring still there (it runs from the opening in the head to the base of the bulb)?

If it isn't, that's your problem. If it is, pull on it to make it slightly longer. This will allow more tension on the bulb base, and keep it in place.

-dan
 
What is your price range? A Surefire M3T would be a much more reliable light with much better grip. Easy to make rechargeable too. It wont throw quite as well as the Ultra Stinger but it is not far behind only because of the textured reflector.
 
My two cents:

Go with a Tigerlight if your looking for a high powered light with decent runtime. Plus you have the O.C. option to go to if the need arised. Price is decent and worth the money.

If your looking for a compact light or full size lights with lots of upgrade options then choose a Surefire. You can do amazing things with these lights. With Surefire you just can not go wrong :thumbsup:.

I carry a 6P Defender with a P61 lamp and that thing is a nice little hand cannon of light.

Happy Hunting.:nana:
 
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I have a 7060 and it throws in the same category as my Husky/Vector/Black & Decker 1MCP spotlight. The 130 lumens is a serious understatement, it's more like 170.

Are Streamlight lumens like Pelican/Surefire lumens, or is the Ultrastinger more like 190 lumens(295*.65)? If that's the case, the 7060 won't be that much of a decrease.
 
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When i compare the Pelican 7060 and the SL Ultrastinger, in my opinion the Ultrastinger makes a (very) little more distance, but the 7060 looks brighter because of the higher light colour. In this moment i will take the 7060, but the Ultrastinger is a very good light for years. How reliably the 7060 is, i dont know.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. The spring inside the head appears to be intact, for the time being I've stretched it out to see if that fixes the problem.

Price range is under $200 if possible. Tiger light is out because of the OC, have to use what the department issues me.

The 7060 is definitely appealing, as it seems to fit what I'm looking for. Have to wait and see if stretching out the spring fixes the problem.

On a whim, I ordered and just received a Fenix L2D RB100. Too small to be a duty light but dang this thing is bright. Might just be something to this whole "flashaholic" thing. ;)
 
Great first purchase, I think the L2D-Rebel 100 might be a good back-up/when-I-don't-need-that-much-light/close-in/off duty use type of light. But I don't know having never been a LEO. The 7060 should be brighter then the L2D with much more throw.

If you don't mind me asking, how does the L2D compare to the Streamlight Ultrastinger?
 
Took the L2D to work with me tonight. It definitely will make a great back up light that I'll keep with me in my patrol car.

First thing I noticed was how incredibly bright it was, especially on Turbo mode. I had both the Ultrastinger and the L2D with me on calls and I would say that the L2D certainly gives the Ultrastinger a run for it's money in terms of brightness. They were very close, the Ultrastinger seemed to have a slight edge over the L2D in terms of throw, but not by much.

I had always thought that the Ultrastinger put out a nice white light....until I pulled out the L2D. Side by side the Ultrastinger beam has far more yellow in it then I had previously noticed.

When approaching vehicles, the L2D did a great job of lighting up the interior, allowing me to see everything I needed to.

Overall I was impressed by how well this little $65 2xAA light held its own again the much larger $120 Ultrastinger. The only downside I saw with the L2D is having to switch throw the modes several times to get it on high. Typically in LE, with a "duty" light, we prefer to have the brightest setting right out the gate. Being that the L2D wasn't designed as a "cop light", it gets a free pass on that one. It is on the other hand, perfectly suited as a backup light.

When walking around certain areas, a huge torch is not needed as this easily gives away our position. The low setting on the L2D is perfect for putting just enough light to see where we're stepping without alerting everyone else that's around us.

If the 7060 is brighter then this then I'm just about sold.
 
The Pelican light will be brighter for sure, and will throw farther than the Fenix.

Also, keep in mind that the Ultrastinger is at best ~150 actual lumens out-the-front. Not to many companies advertise actual "torch" lumens.... :shakehead
 
Strauss brings up a good point. Streamlight, like most companies doesn't measure lumens out the front. (Surefire does). Still, I'm hoping the Ultra Stinger is more than just 150 lumens.

Considering the problems you've had with the light, and what you use it for, I'd go with something else. The Pelican 7060 was specifically designed for police work.

A cheaper alternative would be to head for Home Depot, and get a 3D MagLED model. Easily over 100 lumens. My 2C Maglite w/ MagLED drop-in has very good throw, and has worked reliably as a nightly-use light for patrolling darkened office floors.

My job isn't nearly as important as your's, and I planned on getting an Ultra Stinger soon. (Not so sure now). But if my main light performed the way your's did, I'd put it aside until the problem could be reliably fixed, and use something else.
 
If you keep the bezel of the light tight, it would be in turbo(brightest) mode which goes: Turbo-Strobe.

The Ultrastinger should be around 150-160 lumen at the start with clean contacts and a good battery. Being an incandescent, the Ultrastinger will also provide better color renditioning then an LED.

I think when you have your Ultrastinger fixed, you should keep it with you just in case.
 
The turbo mode is great, but reading the instructions that came with it, it advised against leaving it in turbo mode for more then 10mins at a time. Frequently my light is on for far longer then that at a time.

7060 is here and it's going out with me tonight, along with the Ultrastinger. Will report back on how it goes. Either way, the Ultrastinger will most likely stay in the car, just in case.


If you keep the bezel of the light tight, it would be in turbo(brightest) mode which goes: Turbo-Strobe.

The Ultrastinger should be around 150-160 lumen at the start with clean contacts and a good battery. Being an incandescent, the Ultrastinger will also provide better color renditioning then an LED.

I think when you have your Ultrastinger fixed, you should keep it with you just in case.
 
Don't worry about the 10 minute thing, it should be fine unless you are working in the middle of the day at the hottest part of the Sahara desert, or if you left the light on wrapped in blankets or in a small enclosed space. The heat from the LED should sink directly to the flashlight and into your hand, this will keep the LED cool unless you are wearing gloves. If you feel the light getting warm, the the heat-sink is doing it's job and you shouldn't worry. That goes for all high power LED lights.

Congrats on the 7060:)
 
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