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For sure👆
Helpful YouTube videos are a win.
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{{ Stuff that just works }}
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For sure👆
Helpful YouTube videos are a win.
Also:
letschat7
Flashlight Enthusiast
BCB crusader stove. I upgraded to the next model as soon as I could and replaced it when they went missing.
Few years I did professional landscaping; was able to get wholesale prices through my company. There was a Christmas tree equipment supplier with good prices.
{I got a solid shank, stainless steel shovel (made in England) from another wholesaler, then had a welder attach a stainless steel pipe to replace the too short D handle. What an effective tool, but will trash your elbows if reckless.}
Tree thinning in the American Southwest is an important thing. Firewood production is another. It is actually quicker for me to cut small branches with a pull saw than to use our electric chainsaw (easier on the back and better upper body exercise than standing there holding a machine)
Never owned a skilsaw or sawzall; just borrowed when needed. I would be concerned about accuracy pruning with a sawzall on high visibility trees but totally understand their usefulness for sure. First time I saw a sawzall on a remodel with lots of deconstruction, it was jawdropping.
Taking your most fresh saw and cutting near the ground will cause premature wear, that’s why I save the sharp saw for higher branches. Same thing with chainsaws; using a chain that needs to be sharpened anyways to cut low to the ground.
If it is a bigger log/tree that has been laying on the ground or the cut area has significant dirt on it, I will cut past the cambium with the older pull saw then finish cutting that bad boy with a sharp one. The time it takes to switch saws is worth it to me.
Sharp tools make for sharp work.
I wrote a post earlier in this thread about a deconstruction job I did at a local church with the help of my grandson, and a sawzall loaded with an 11 inch pruning blade.
{{ Stuff that just works }} | Page 9 | Candle Power Flashlight Forum
hmmm, that one is nicer than mine. It's a nice touch to have a built in pipe vise too! + Clarified my last post showing the Scout vice like mine
www.candlepowerforums.com
A stainless-steel-covered workbench just works. This one was present when we purchased our house.
Also worth stating, having a place to leave everything mid-project just works. I've been painting our garage, and due to the temperature being in the mid-80s to low 90s, I've been taking my sweet time getting it done. It's so nice being able to leave everything out for tomorrow.
Also worth stating, having a place to leave everything mid-project just works. I've been painting our garage, and due to the temperature being in the mid-80s to low 90s, I've been taking my sweet time getting it done. It's so nice being able to leave everything out for tomorrow.
Another thing that just works is a multi-position ladder. I've had this 25' unit for about two years. I love using it ... but only when I have to.
It's easily the most stable ladder I've ever been on. At 50lbs it's a chore to lug around, and there's a bit of a learning curve on how best to adjust it.
It's easily the most stable ladder I've ever been on. At 50lbs it's a chore to lug around, and there's a bit of a learning curve on how best to adjust it.
IMA SOL MAN
Flashlight Enthusiast
I rented a house once, that had a detached garage and a full basement with a workbench and shelf already in place. I had lots of fun running my reloading press on that bench, and had my old tube AM broadcast radio plugged in setting on that shelf. Good times! And I don't know how many times I tuned up my old VW Rabbit in that detached garage, that car ate plugs, points, condensers, fuel filters, shocks, struts, brakes, mufflers and tires! Good grief I put a lot of parts on that thing! It ran like a mother though. Oh my, off topic. Sorry.
OK. One more - Oil-base primer. That's the white on the garage in my previous post. The garage will be 80 years old next year, so a lot of the siding and trim required sanding to the bare wood. I also applied a couple of tubs of wood filler to even out the low spots. I had so much filler and bare wood, I just went ahead and primed everything. I used Killzs oil-based primer. The stuff tends to drip and takes a bit more effort to clean up after, however, more than one professional painter has advised me to always use oil-based primer on exterior bare wood.
Before primer -
Before primer -
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All good...
I always see IMSA (International Motor Sports Association) in your name.
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Couple years ago I stopped drinking coffee, then I found myself getting a cup at the gas station.
Didn't really want to do the whole bean grinding/brewing /cleanup thing any more, or drink a ton of coffee.
Bought some Starbucks Instant (Dark Roast) and some Nescafe* dark & do a 50/50 mix,,
that with some milk & some quality natural vanilla simple syrup.
You pay for the simplicity & no cleanup, but just one mug works for me.
* Nescafe produces the Starbucks instant, so it's on the same page at half the cost,
the Starbucks uses only uses Arabica though.
@Chauncey Gardiner, What type wood filler is best to use?
I have a shed (120sqft) that has a few spots of dry rot on the siding (t111) around trim. Treated with the green (poison) stuff. Now that it's dried out good and treated, it needs some filler squeegeed into those areas, then primed, painted, new comp roof too..
I built shed about 30 yrs ago to get all my garden equipment out of my garage machine shop. Found the plans in Popular Mechanics magazine (-;
Property is terraced, so she'd (shed) sits up from main dwelling. Surprised the cedar shingles lasted this long. I haven't performed any maintenance on it in more than a few...
I have a shed (120sqft) that has a few spots of dry rot on the siding (t111) around trim. Treated with the green (poison) stuff. Now that it's dried out good and treated, it needs some filler squeegeed into those areas, then primed, painted, new comp roof too..
I built shed about 30 yrs ago to get all my garden equipment out of my garage machine shop. Found the plans in Popular Mechanics magazine (-;
Property is terraced, so she'd (shed) sits up from main dwelling. Surprised the cedar shingles lasted this long. I haven't performed any maintenance on it in more than a few...
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What type is best? Beats me. 
I've used these three with good results. The DAP Premium is what I used on the exterior of the garage. The application and sanding results have been fine. How well it holds up - I'll let you know in a few years.
I've used these three with good results. The DAP Premium is what I used on the exterior of the garage. The application and sanding results have been fine. How well it holds up - I'll let you know in a few years.
Years ago when I was in the Sea Scouts, we got a canoe that had a bit of rot around the gunnels. Our skipper used "Git-rot". It's a penetrating epoxy, I think it was applied with a needle and injected into the wood.
I just googled it to see if I remembered it correctly. It is available at Lowes, and Home Depot, and probably Amazon. I didn't see a needle application.
I had an old house with a dry rotted window sill in the window in the tiled wall of the bath tub. To remove it would have made a bigger project than I wanted to attack. Instead, I mixed up some fiberglass epoxy and stuffed it with a little piece of fiberglass insulation. It was probably the most waterproof portion of the house when I was finished with it.
I just googled it to see if I remembered it correctly. It is available at Lowes, and Home Depot, and probably Amazon. I didn't see a needle application.
I had an old house with a dry rotted window sill in the window in the tiled wall of the bath tub. To remove it would have made a bigger project than I wanted to attack. Instead, I mixed up some fiberglass epoxy and stuffed it with a little piece of fiberglass insulation. It was probably the most waterproof portion of the house when I was finished with it.
I was thinking there might be a two part "bondo" type wood filler for exterior use. I'll search marine wood fillers. Epoxy sounds good 👍
I think that with dry rot you really want to get INTO the fibers. Not just coat them/cover them with a wood filler. When I googled git rot, I found that they now have a number of brush on "penetrating" epoxies. I guess that they are relatively thin, and somewhat slow drying/hardening, so that they have time to soak in.
3_gun
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2021
- Messages
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Never had a SAK, Leatherman, Buck or Cold Steel knife fail me. USGI surplus web gear. Maglite. Garmin GPS. DEET based bug repentant. Berkey water filters. Just a few things I trust from experience
If it moves but isn't supposed to - apply Gorilla Tape to it.
If it doesn't move but is supposed to - spray it with WD40.
If it doesn't move but is supposed to - spray it with WD40.
NASCAR teams call it "200mph tape" when they use it on the after a crash and go back on the track.
Fire. It just works.
Have you tried All Weather Gorilla Tape? Oh yeah.
www.gorillatough.com
When building a deck, I used this to cover the top of the deck joists before installing the deck boards, hoping to lessen joist rot where the gap is between the deck boards right on the joists. I have replaced decks years ago that had this problem, what with leaves and accumulated dirt resting there, holding moisture.
Permanent Gorilla Tape All Weather | Gorilla Glue
Permanent Gorilla Tape All Weather withstands extreme weather conditions and resists drying, cracking, and peeling and works in both hot & cold temperatures.
www.gorillatough.com
When building a deck, I used this to cover the top of the deck joists before installing the deck boards, hoping to lessen joist rot where the gap is between the deck boards right on the joists. I have replaced decks years ago that had this problem, what with leaves and accumulated dirt resting there, holding moisture.
