HDS Suggestions for HDS Part Deux...

Slumber

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Not that it's important to me, but is there anything inside a Rotary(ie the Rotary mechanism, electronics, etc) that could ignite a flammable vapor.

According to the Pioneering Technologies page on the HDS website, HDS lights are intrinsically safe.
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Hogokansatsukan

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Does that only apply to the Clicky? I wonder if that's true when turning the Rotary dial.

It is as long as you have the aluminum switch cap and a titanium bezel and no clips that have any ferrous material in them.
Dropping the light and having it land on the bezel (or the new stainless tail) can cause a spark. Everything internal is sealed to prevent a bad boom incident.
 
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WarriorOfLight

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RCS1300

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It is as long as you have the aluminum switch cap and a titanium bezel and no clips that have any ferrous material in them.
Dropping the light and having it land on the bezel (or the new stainless tail) can cause a spark. Everything internal is sealed to prevent a bad boom incident.

I believe the only way to have a truly spark proof HDS light is to go with the Beryllium Copper HDS build. It makes that HDS flashlight package really interesting and provides a compelling reason to purchase it.
 

WarriorOfLight

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I believe the only way to have a truly spark proof HDS light is to go with the Beryllium Copper HDS build. It makes that HDS flashlight package really interesting and provides a compelling reason to purchase it.


I am quite sure, that is the reason why we all bought the BeCu HDS :thumbsup:

I always had the fear, when I am use one of my non BeCu HDS lights in my living room where I store my Gin supply, the room may explode.... :party::laughing: ...now I am safe.
 

kaichu dento

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At least I pre-ordered a BeCu because it is looking cool. If the patina is also great... than it is even better.

My Bronze HDS has still no patina, looks like Hogo sent it to me 3 days ago. Maybe I will leave the Bronze HDS alone on the garden for the winter and see what happens than....!?

I can not wait until my BeCu is here. The picture that Hogo was doing from the BeCu parts are really tempting. I am really totally excited.
I can't wait to see pictures of the BeCu lights. Reminds me of Steve Ku lights and I may end up getting one someday, but for now, my bronze Rotary looks really nice. The patina is pretty much in the grooves only, but I really like the way it looks. Not dark like a lot of us would like, but it's got that pocket-worn look that is hard to beat.
 

jon_slider

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I always had the fear, when I am use one of my non BeCu HDS lights in my living room where I store my Gin supply, the room may explode.... :party::laughing:

LOL!
you dont need BeCu, you just need a Ti Bezel on the Standard Aluminium model :)

as long as you have the aluminum switch cap and a titanium bezel and no clips that have any ferrous material
 

desert.snake

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Yesterday I received a 2 more novataсs and unlocked them. While I was playing with them, I thought there was a useful thing - SOS and emergency strobe, which do not occupy 4 light levels, that is, you need to go into programming and turn them on and they will burn until the flashlight is turned off or the person changes the level. In modern HDS, if programming is disabled, then such a system would be rather inconvenient. But there are hidden modes - "on" simulated campfire (9 clicks from off), "on / off" locator flach (4 clicks from off), "on" true momentary (6 clicks from off), "on/off" button lockout (3 clicks pfrom off). This way we remain pretty free 5, 7, 8 clicks from off. As an example, it is rather inconvenient to install a SOS or emergency strobe or other flashing modes on a Tactical Rotary - this will greatly reduce the number of his useful levels. It seems to me that it's a good idea to cram on 5, 7, 8 clicks from off some of the most common of these modes, so as not to occupy the 4 available levels, if a person rarely uses them, but there is a probability of using them. The only thing that I remember, but cannot find in the search, one of 2 well-known representatives of HDS spoke about the limitations of the driver's memory. If so, then this way to have several additional modes can be used in a future model.
 

wweiss

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I am quite sure, that is the reason why we all bought the BeCu HDS :thumbsup:

I always had the fear, when I am use one of my non BeCu HDS lights in my living room where I store my Gin supply, the room may explode.... :party::laughing: ...now I am safe.

Aside from the above (very serious)conundrum, OSHA has specific refs on ventilation in confined spaces.

Construction Industry (29 CFR 1926) Related Information 1926 Subpart D 1926.57, Ventilation.

If you think you will be working in a dark, poorly vented confined space, don’t. Until you blow-vent the area - better fir the lungs and no worries about flashlight sparks.
 

InvisibleFrodo

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So I think this might be worth posting here.

I think it would be a good idea for burst mode to function on settings below level 24. Meaning one could set up the light to run level 22 for 40 seconds and then drop down to 21.
In other words, burst mode would allow you to set any level as your “maximum” output, and then step down. I’m thinking of this more for the executive’s A setting, not the rotary, unless you’re using setting A. I would assume most people will keep the rotary’s rotary position programmed to setting B.
I hope this all makes sense.
 

autumncrown

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I think it would be great to have a voltage reading mode so as to estimate one’s battery life. Alternatively, maybe someone could help me learn how to read the step down. I.e. it happens at X voltage, which means you have Y percent battery left.
 

caelyx

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I think it would be a good idea for burst mode to function on settings below level 24. Meaning one could set up the light to run level 22 for 40 seconds and then drop down to 21.
In other words, burst mode would allow you to set any level as your “maximum” output, and then step down. I’m thinking of this more for the executive’s A setting, not the rotary, unless you’re using setting A.

Yep -- I use the Automatic Turn Off setting to do approximately this on my lights, albeit much, much more slowly. No matter what mode you're on, if you don't press a button or turn the rotary, it slowly steps down; interact with it and it jumps right back. (Triple blinks when it steps down, to let you know that it's not because of low power from the battery.)
 

glimmer

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I think a 2 x AA Side By Side battery compartment would be cool. It would be much more pocket friendly than 2 inline AA's. Benefits would be cheap, readily available batteries, and increased run-time vs. one 123 battery. Imagine an HDS head and rotary tail on something like this:

3__12072.1534843437.1280.1280.jpg
 

light-modder

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I say set it up like the Spy or Synergy with the head offset and the button next to it. Then you don’t have to change grip to push the button or use the rotary. All with HDS durability.

Not that I don’t think the other two are sufficiently durable.
 

carrot

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I am thinking that the upcoming (currently soft-released) Cree XP-P 5000K would be an amazing HDS LED.

High throw like the Osram W1, but in a warmer CCT, and 3535 footprint so easier to mount. Max current around 3.5A or so, which should be perfect for Henry's creations.
 

Hogokansatsukan

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I think a 2 x AA Side By Side battery compartment would be cool. It would be much more pocket friendly than 2 inline AA's. Benefits would be cheap, readily available batteries, and increased run-time vs. one 123 battery. Imagine an HDS head and rotary tail on something like this:

The 2AA Rotary will go away as the new HDS will be able to run on a single AA. Not as bright nor for as long as with a lithium 14500 or 18500, but will be able to use any of these and still make use of a single AA in an emergency.
 
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