something to fill the void surefire left when they discontinued their larger TIR/fresnel lights. although the malkoff hound dog super has filled that spot it didnt replicate the beam surefire had when they first released the M6LT. so something in the 2-3 l-ion cell range, with a M series sized head depending on what lens/optic you go with... but i think it might also be a good time to jump on those larger tesla cell sizes (i forget if its 21700 or 20700) for a couple hours of full output runtimeIts a good idea but not in active development. How do you see your ideal size/performance balance?
I definitely agree with giving mode-changes priority over bounce-detection. If the bounce-detector is triggered the instant the light is turned-on, it shouldn't actually dim the light until the bounce-detector stops being triggered and starts being triggered a second time. The use-case I'm thinking of is, if you turn-on the light while it's cupped in your hand, then you move your hand away, then you accidentally point the light at a nearby wall. On the other hand, if the bounce-detector isn't triggered until, say, more than 0.5 seconds after the light is turned-on, then it should dim the light as soon as it's triggered instead of waiting for a second trigger.After using my BOSS for a couple of weeks I do have two firmware suggestions / improvements related to the ‘bounce’ feature – which is IMO one of the greatest innovations I’ve seen in my years here at CPF.
Permit /mode-specific/ ‘Bounce’ sensitivity settings
With my ‘Medium’ mode set a little on the high side - ~4-5W - and with bounce sensitivity @ ~84 or so after calibrating @ 'High'; if reflection conditions are optimum, the bounce will trigger on Medium mode as well. I can imagine either wanting bounce to /always/ or /never/ trigger on Medium, so being able to configure/program bounce sensitivity in each mode will permit either configuration reasonably reliably. For example, if I was to always want ‘Bounce’ on my ~4-5W medium mode, it would be nice to be able to set its sensitivity to 100 on ‘Medium’ but only its current ~84 on ‘High’. On the other hand, with that feature option I could just as easily program out 'bounce' completely on 'Medium' if that was desired.
Permit mode change cycling despite ‘Bounce’ being triggered
If I want to /discreetly/ cycle to ‘Medium’ or ‘Low’ modes, in a High-first configuration I must avoid triggering ‘bounce’; For example, attempting to cycle to the lower modes while suppressing High-first, traps me in a ‘High-bounce-Red’, ‘High-bounce-Red’ infinite loop of changing modes. ‘Bounce’ is always being prioritized over mode changes, and I don’t imagine it would have to be this way – normal mode change pressing could in theory get me to Medium (& subsequent Low) even if ‘bounce’ is being triggered.
Thank you & Best regards,
A 2xAA version would be larger than the 2x123 version. A 1xAA version would be too weak to power the driver at full brightness, unless you use a 14500 Li-Ion cell instead of a real AA. If you use a 14500 cell you'd get the same performance as you would from the 1x123 version that already exists. So there's no advantage to using AAs with this light. It's just too powerful for alkaline, NiMH, or any type of lithium primary batteries.Just wanted to reiterate an earlier request, made by others here as well for a smaller dedicated AA model --
same form as the Boss - copper, other metals, etc. This would be a great light (given of course good mode spacing, LED offerings, etc.)!
I think that the Boss form in this smaller AA version would be a stunning must-have light for many.
See a few more recent comments as well as comments #250 - #259 especially.
Yeah, it would need to be a 1xXPL type platform. Which reduces performance, which should also come with a lower price. So the first step would be prioritizing the 371 features to remove to make the board both smaller and cheaper.A 2xAA version would be larger than the 2x123 version. A 1xAA version would be too weak to power the driver at full brightness, unless you use a 14500 Li-Ion cell instead of a real AA. If you use a 14500 cell you'd get the same performance as you would from the 1x123 version that already exists. So there's no advantage to using AAs with this light. It's just too powerful for alkaline, NiMH, or any type of lithium primary batteries.
Electron Guru, respectfully, I have only one suggestion: keep inventory of popular designs and product.
Electron Guru, respectfully, I have only one suggestion: keep inventory of popular designs and product. I do not understand why the necessity repeating the process of new designs of limited stock for that are popular and that sell out almost immediately.
Here are the benefitsI'm hoping for a red secondary in a 219C but it seems to be more popular than amber and I usually sold out. Can someone shed some real world experience between the two.
Thanks for this info.Red is better for protecting dark-adapted vision, but it also requires dark-adapted vision before you can see anything. My camera can see at night using the red light in my Surefire E2E Triple better than I can -- and if you know anything about cameras, you know they aren't great at seeing at night in the first place. Amber is much easier to see with, provided you haven't been walking around in pitch-blackness for a half-hour and are unlikely to do so in the near future.