I've been using mine on a 2AA pak with a 3S 119V light engine.
I actually prefer the 3S over the Hive. Although I was an early adopter of the Hive and instantly soldered the jumper and did a lot of customisation of modes in the end I set it as a 3 mode with similar drive currents to the 3S.
I'm really liking the AA converter and pak but for the Sundrop a bit higher drive current is nice so I'd recommend a 3S with 119(V) and a 123 pak by default. The AA and 2AA paks are really nice though.
My first was a Haiku XP-G2 as I was looking for the perfect optimized light. Then I bought a Mule 119 as I wanted something compact and pure. Finally I added a Sundrop HIVE XM-L2 for high output yet flexible EDC. I love them all and am very happy with my configuration choices. McGizmo's rock.
I also have the Sundrop XR-U 119V 1xCR123 3-speed. I just got it from Don two days ago. It is my favorite McGizmo also (of his current offerings). Wonderful, wonderful light. Highly recommended. :thumbsup:
Im considering my first McGizmo, a hight CRI Sundrop
contacted Don and he says he uses Nichia 119, but that if I want the option to change my own LED to N219b 4500k 9080, that I should have him build me a light with XP-G2 instead, due to differences in the contact pads.
does anyone have data links for CRI and Tint info for the Nichia 119
and or, anyone have the ability to post a photo, of the beams of
Nichia 083, Nichia 119, and Nichia 219b 4500k 9080?
Im leaning towards using AA Eneloop
how low can Hive go, without visible PWM?
what is the best way to end up with a Sundrop running AA Eneloop with N219b 4500k?
I dont know where to start to find the up to date info about Hive PWM, and output levels.. same with 119 LED.. dont know where to find the tint and CRI data..
Here is something to start with. 119V on left in XR head and 08db in XR-U head. The difference in tint is far more pronounced in the picture than in real life.
FYI a 119V and a 219A are the same thing. McGizmo's naming convention used this part to name NVSL-119A the LED while we typically use this these days NVSL-219A. There was a prior 119 named NCSL-119 which predates the A series, the V was picked to differentiate, these days Nichia does not make "C" so it is a moot point. the difference between NVSL and NCSL is the emitting area, think XP-E vs XP-G. 119 denotes no neutral thermal pad but instead two larger anode and cathode pads. 219 denotes neutral thermal pad with smaller anode and cathode solder pads. This is true with 119A 119B 119C 119D and 219A 219B 219C 219D
IMO, you shouldn't mod McGizmo's work. Many have done it, and in my strong and obnoxious opinion, it is foolish and reduces the value no matter who does the work. If the Renoir does not match the upholstery of your couch, change the upholstery, not the Renoir.
Get the 119 and AA engine, and also get an extra empty pill ring (I can't imagine McGizmo would not provide it if you wanted an extra), then cannibalize something else, like a ThruNite TiS (original over V2 if you can find it), Tool AA Al, or Lumintop IYP07 (w/ regulated modes for constant brightness!) and swap that LED for your fave 219B, fix into the pill by any means necessary, install, enjoy the more efficient driver, and save the McGizmo 119 AA engine and pill unmolested in case you decide to someday sell.