Is there any benefit of this? I imagine it would decrease runtime without much increase in usable brightness.
All the incan A2's work the same way. With the all LED version, I think it would increase spill up close.
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Is there any benefit of this? I imagine it would decrease runtime without much increase in usable brightness.
Hi,
just wondering why all the wait for a new surefire model. Most of the lights by surefire seem to be low lumen lights. Isn't a modified surefire with a bored body a better solution?
I got a c2 bored to accept 68650 batteries with a sst-50 led rated at 550 lumens with 5 settings including sos and strobe. How could a stock surefire beat that? Are you guys waiting for larger bodies with larger reflectors than the smaller surefire bodies?
i have and 550 lumens flashlight but it looks a bit the same as the E2DL 200 lumens i have.
Surefire rating their lumens completely different than all the others.
I dont say that we all have to buy surefire flashlights but they give the best quality corresponding to lifetime guarantee and lumen output.
For example i have tested my E2DL 200 lumens and can easily beat any flashlight my friends have rating 200 to 500 lumens.
Surefire are OTF real lumens but they also measure it from higher distance than other OTF flashlights.
If i made any mistake please correct me.
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Surefire E2DL 200 lumens
Both the LM1 and the LM2 are single-piece Lamp Modules.
During development it made sense to use the KX1A and KX2C bezels with the necessary adapters but for production both the LM1 and the LM2 screw directly into the housing bodies with the LM2 being able to host the 2nd SF123A it needs.
Why is the WeaponLight "3 volt" ?Is the threading on the LM1 the same as an L60? Curious whether it could be used on an old 3 volt weaponlight.
Why is the WeaponLight "3 volt" ?
Because it has a Lamp Module that accepts one-SF123A, usually an L30 Lamp Module.
Lamp Modules screw into Housing Bodies. In this context there are two main types: 1) dedicated forend housing bodies, and 2) the A21 Universal Housing Body.
As a result, the LM1, like the L30 can not be used on a 3 volt WeaponLight. When it is utilised it is a 3V WeaponLight.
The LM1 is expressly designed and intended to be used as a 3V WeaponLight replacing the L30. I suppose there are various reasons why you'd select a 3V WeaponLight such as the LM1 rather than the more powerful 6V LM2... You want to save weight, reduce it's length, perhaps [even!] for situations where too much light is more trouble than its worth.
I hope this helps?
Yep the 318's L30 can be replaced by the LM1.I may have not asked the question correctly. I have an old original 318 3 volt weaponlight with the small bezel. I believe it can be converted to a 6 volt with the L60. I would be quite happy with the LM1 if the threads on it would fit the threads on my old 318.
Yep the 318's L30 can be replaced by the LM1.
Looks like Surefire have released details on some new lights at an outdoor vendor show!
G2X and 6PX, seem to offer 15/200 or 200 lumen options, the dual mode is a clicky and the 200 is "tactical"
Both priced quite low for Surefire it seems.
http://militarytimes.com/blogs/gearscout/2010/08/04/surefire-rolls-out-4-for-the-cheap-seats/
Oh great! And the long awaited LX1 seems to have vaporized. Anyway, reading that link provided, I don't understand how does making the light head glued to the body reduce the cost? Anyone knows why?
Oh great! And the long awaited LX1 seems to have vaporized. Anyway, reading that link provided, I don't understand how does making the light head glued to the body reduce the cost? Anyone knows why?
^^^
I have no idea why gluing the heads on would reduce the prices either.
Perhaps it's cheaper to use glue than machine threads on the body? Or, maybe they don't want people lego'n these lights?!?
*shrug*
Schuey2002 said:Perhaps it's cheaper to use glue than machine threads on the body?