Surefire 6p OGs keep or trade up

xfrog

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I have several early model 6p surefire lights on duty rifles. Wanting to go up to dual fuel and 200 or 400. Should I spend the money to bore and drop in a new led or sell outright and buy the new lights?
 

sween1911

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How early model? Shock-isolated bezels with lexan lenses? Depending on your budget, I'd recommend converting to the new scout light bodies for using the new tailcaps and compatible wiring and switches and mounts.
 

xfrog

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The 6p is 100$ on eBay. So if I got 75$ each I'd still be out about 175$ each. I'm thinking it would be 100$ each to upgrade?
 

xfrog

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How early model? Shock-isolated bezels with lexan lenses? Depending on your budget, I'd recommend converting to the new scout light bodies for using the new tailcaps and compatible wiring and switches and mounts.
They are about 10 years old. I have always trained to use a clamp and roll on off with my thumb. I don't want to re learn 10+ years and I'm not a fan of wires and pads. It is instinctive and easy since my thumb is at the tail cap anyway.
 

ABTOMAT

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I see upgrading older lights like that as fun rather than useful. For weapon lights I'd want something made for the purpose. Boring makes them more fragile, too.

Although if you just want a 6P replacement the new ones aren't identical. Maybe drop in an LED but keep the 123 batteries?
 

xfrog

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The scout is too skinny. I'm trialing a g2 composite on a training cz. It is the perfect size for my kit. I just don't know about the plastic body being up to task. Was wanting to stay the same size.
 

sween1911

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They are about 10 years old. I have always trained to use a clamp and roll on off with my thumb. I don't want to re learn 10+ years and I'm not a fan of wires and pads. It is instinctive and easy since my thumb is at the tail cap anyway.

Cool, I like the old-school simplicity as well. My stick has a regular 6P, stock momentary tailcap and a Nailbender LED unit in front of two CR123's. There's so many new Modlites and wodlights and bodlights I've lost track and I didn't want to lead you to a solution that's still behind the times, but if you're solid on your current mechanics, I'd say go for boring them out.
 

xfrog

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Think I'll bore one and make sure it's not too thin. I found a drop in 2 beam that'll do exactly what I'm going for. Thanks for the info guys!
 

xfrog

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Just give some backstory... we were out for hours on a search in the woods and my old 6p was burning great but weak. Made the whole 5 hours. A few others had their 1k and 800s go out in 30 min and other at about an hour. Was 28 degrees out. They could see much further tho. In my mind a 2 beam would be ideal.
 

yellow

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Yes, with a bore to 18650 the enery in that cell is considerably more,
But just measure the outside diameter at the o-ring notch and then calculate the remaining wall thickness when bored.
You will not like the ruggedness

The 16650 cell + led insert does not need any modification,
So another vote for that.

WHEN the Li-Ion cell survives the shooting,
then You might consider modding for the larger 18650 cell.

... or get an 18650 ready made body, like the ones from fivemega
 
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