Surefire 6P / Solarforce L2 Tail Clicker

[old4570]

I wanted to try the super cheap tail clicky from DX
It arrived today , and I was pleasantly surprised at how good it was .
Now my only complaint is , it's just a little to mat in color , but is reasonably close to the L2 , so It's not really worth bothering with .

It functions well , has a nice positive reverse clicky feel and is not overly sensitive , in fact it's just about right [ for me ] .

I liked it so much , I ordered another one .

 

[NigelBond]

I have one of those too and yeah it's pretty good for the price though as you said, it doesn't match up well because of the matte black. I did find that my tail cap boot protruded just far enough to make tail standing just a little bit unstable. I solved this by removing the rubber boot and then wraping an o-ring around it before re-inserting it. The o-ring acts as a spacer that keeps the boot from coming out too far and now it perfectly tail stands.

 

[Justin Case]

Putting aside these various cosmetic issues, any commentary on the functional performance and design such as robustness of the switch itself, how it is constructed, amp rating of the switch, and so forth.

 

[Zatoichi]

I bought 2 of those, one works perfectly but the other was a bit temperamental. After a good clean it seems okay but I've just put it away as a spare. They certainly make good spares/replacements at the price. My favorite clicky by far for the L2 is the Solarforce forward clicky with built in grip ring. It's relatively expensive though.

One little niggle about those cheap DX ones is the edges of the grooves are a bit sharp. I filled them with thick o-rings on mine.

 

[old4570]

AMP ratting ? Not a clue .. Mechanically , very nice and positive in function , no mushiness what so ever , in fact some might complain about the audible click . The way its put together is very tight , no lose parts , no slop of any kind , the threads are well machined , and seem to be nice and clean , and it fits my L2 body extremely well .

Im running this tail clicker on one of my SSC P7 L2's , so current is up to 2.4A with a fresh batt .
If it dies ill let you know . But so far so good .

 

[Winx]

I have the same Ultrafire C1 clicky switch with my MC-E drop-in. I changed Solarforce switch inside and it works fine. I remember MrGman wrote that Solarforce clicky is good to use with direct drive MC-E.

Better choice visually is solarforcestore's tailcap as discussed in other thread. I got mine and used a LOT of elbow grease to fit it with my 6P. I got blisters in my hand and then I made a real mistake. I screwed the tailcap to a body without grease and then it jammed completely. I didn't have a proper thongs and I had to use a Jedi force to get it of the body. Goodbye to anodizing so I ordered two tailcaps more. Must be more careful with those.

Same thing was with that C1 tailcap. It works great with Solarforce body, but not with 6P. Elbow grease is needed and a lot. Kramer5150 told the same with his review.

Something to add: Solarforcestore's tailcap uses exactly this switch: DX SKU.5602

 

[Justin Case]

Thanks for the link to the DX switch. A 1.5A rating is too weak for my purposes.

 

[Winx]

Here's a picture what is inside of the DX SKU.14024 tailcap:

The size of switch itself is 8*12mm. I bet it doesn't tolerate big currents.

 

[fatts]

If you already have a Solarforce L2 Reverse Clicky, you can install the Jetbeam JET III Pro I.B.S. Forward clicky in it which is rated for 3A.

Thanks for the link to the DX switch. A 1.5A rating is too weak for my purposes.

 

[LightJaguar]

I have that switch in a few Ultrafire C1s that I have. I've had a few problems with them I think that they are OK. The solarforce ones look much better specially the guts. I grabbed one of the UF C1 switches and took out the guts and used them to replace a bad switch on my Dexlight X1.
It worked perfectly and it brought my flashlight back from the dead for a few minutes. Then the Dexlight started acting up and it died for good :mecry: