SureFire 9P with Malkoff M60 review

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
Surefire 9P is my first Surefire. I had doubts about a 123 lite (I have everything on the AA cell) but couldn't resist the M60 module. Apparently you can get Li-Ion cells in it without the huge cost of 123 cells on the annual basis. I still keep a lot of 123s as a backup.

9P strikes me as a quality lite, very solid, well made. Like the heft of it. Comfy to hold. The knurling is good but could it be just a bit more agressive.


M60_1.jpg


First, the stock incan module comes out and the Malkoff M60 LED module goes in:

M60_module.jpg


M60_lense.jpg


I, like some others, ran into this issue with the module. Since Malkoff designed it to be a one size fits all (6P, 9P, C3, and so on, apparently across generations). In this 9P, it leaves a lmost 1mm gap when the head is fully screwed down.
To be sure, it doesn' t have any consequences performance-wise nor does it make the lite non-waterproof, there is still good contact and nothing rattles inside. It's just an aesthetics issue. No big deal, but I wanted as good a fit as the original incan module.
FWIW, it's the newer M60 module than comes in the clam shell and is partially automated (the olders ones Gene used to do entirely by hand as far as I understand).

M60_gap_before.jpg


I had to take out the module and use sand paper to take some copper off at the bottom. But the end result is a perfect fit. Thankfully the brass metal is soft against sandpaper. 10 mins later it was ready. No gap.

M60_gap_after.jpg


9P uses 3 seemingly tiny 123 cells. I think for its size, they could have come up with much bigger cells or else made the lite itself smaller. I do understand that 9P has to be 1" in body diameter for various reasons. It's built like a tank, has thick walls, and can be driven over by a tank apparently. It's definitely overengineered.

M60_tall.jpg


Here it is next to Fenix L2D, which is smaller.

M60_fenix.jpg


The thread is very impressive. No way to cross-thread it or damage. Much better than generic import lites. I think just the thread alone warrants buying a 9P Surefire.

M60_thread.jpg


Shot of the original incan P90 module, about 100 lumens. It has a yellow tint I am not used to, I am not an incan person.

M60_P90.jpg



Malkoff M60 LED, 240 (?) lumens. It does seem about twice as bright. The color rendition is really nice. It's much warmer than other modules I have, not sure what bin it is. I hear the P91 module generates 200+ lumens but the runtime is only 20 mins. That and the limited lifespan means incans are not for me. I haven't abused M60, did not beat it with a hammer nor sank it at the
bottom of a lake but the Malkoff module I have in a Mag is a solid, reliable performer which is why I wanted the M60 module.

M60_M60.jpg


I have been using it occasionally for about two weeks, and still runs pretty strong on the original 123s with no sign of diminishing. The module draws well under 1000 mAh (was it 700 mAh?) and I think runtime should be at least 2 hours, which is impressive.
 
Last edited:

NotRegulated

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 2, 2004
Messages
1,358
very nice pics. I have the Malkoff M60 in my 6Z.

My 9P currently has an older WE Q2 Cree in it. I works great. The LED and three primary cells make the 9P a long running bright light.
 

kramer5150

Flashaholic
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Messages
6,328
Location
Palo Alto, CA
Nice setup.:twothumbs

Yeah... extra cells and a multi-mode drop in was my solution to help extend run times. I still think you should give the Leef body and 2x18500 cells a shot. You wouldn't loose much size-wise to the stock 9P, and you get the bonus of HA Type III for the body and enhanced knurl grip.

Although its hard to argue against the convenience of 3xPrimaries.

Aw heck... just buy them all :poke: :duck:
 
Last edited:

Sgt. LED

Flashaholic
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Messages
7,486
Location
Chesapeake, Ohio
I just tried something new about 15 minutes ago! Hit me from out of NOWHERE while I was reading Duma Key for the 10th time.

I took a FiveMega 18650 Strion body - an E to C adapter with appropriate bezel - an M30 - 1 18650 cell and stuck them all together!

The end of the Malkoff fits very snugly into the end of the bored out Strion tube allowing a perfect connection even though the E 2 C connector is used!

Short, rubber armored, 0 gap, BRIGHT, and should have a great runtime.

It just never ends.
 

MrGman

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 6, 2007
Messages
1,777
I am currently testing some filters that would fit that very nicely sent to me by Gene (and Cathy) directly. I am sorting out what they are and may have some pics and a detailed report in a week or so. But basically, there is a 5 degree filter that you could put over a standard M60 or a regular reflectorized pill and get the beam to smooth out really well without loosing hardly any light. Next is the 30 degree filter that will turn the M60 into the F model real quick, again with very little loss of total lumens. They simply slip in under the bezel head you will like it. Then there is non symmetrical profile filters like 30 degree wide but only 5 degree tall to light up the horizon better without wasting light up in the air. And more.

I think the 2X 17500 batteries is the way to go. There is always the Unique Continuosly variable tail cap that will work very well with your set up and then you can turn down the light and extend battery life that way.
 

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
Well, any extended FiveMega or Leef body sounds interesting but I am afraid if will increase the size of it beyond EDC. It cannot live on the belt but inside the pocket, bezel up.

Now an extended body might be really cool if you can EDC it on the belt...

I understand the reduced capacity with 2x17500 vs. 2x18500 or more, but I wonder if having extra spares is the answer to more runtime and capacity. Not sure yet. Feedback?

Unique Continuosly variable tail cap

Tell me about it, what is this beast?
 

txgp17

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
242
I three 9P's with M60's and I love them. One is mounted to the forearm of an AR-15, another is in the kitchen drawer with 17500's, and the 3rd is in my night stand with 123A's.

I also have a Leef body designed for 2 18500's. It runs a M60 for about 2 hours non-stop, and can accept 123A's if I can't recharge. It's my favorite light.
 

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
Question, do 123s rattle in the 2x18500 body? They are not exactly a tight fit even in the stock body.
If so, what do you use to keep them from rattling? Some rolled up paper I assume?
 

const451

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jun 2, 2006
Messages
118
Location
USA
etc, did you just sand off the bottom of the M60 so it fits perfectly???!!!!!! I want it too!!

I have been thinking to do it since I bought my M60 about six months ago but I am afraid to damage it. How did you do it, can you, please, post a pic? There is a visible wire that comes from the epoxy and soldered to the brass body, I am afraid if use sandpaper I will sand off the wire.

I use M60 with C3, I love it.
 

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
const451

I didn't sand off the bottom (the horizontal part) of the module per se. Rather the vertical side, or the lower, I think 1/4" or so of it. The brass is soft, it's not difficult at all.

I used pretty fine sandpaper. I sanded it off 60 seconds at a time, and tried it and screwed the head back on. The gap went from 1mm to nothing.

I sanded off the part that is marked in black here. Remember you have to take off very little. I wouldn't use a file.

M60_module_sand.jpg
 

Gene43

Enlightened
Joined
Sep 2, 2006
Messages
836
Location
South Alabama
There is no wire on the rear of the M60. Its just stray solder from where the driver was soldered to the heatsink. You will have to sand through a good 2-3mm of epoxy to get to the board. Sanding on the rear will do no harm unless you actually remove a lot of material.

Gene
 

txgp17

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
242
Question, do 123s rattle in the 2x18500 body? They are not exactly a tight fit even in the stock body.
If so, what do you use to keep them from rattling? Some rolled up paper I assume?
They do rattle a little, but not enough to bother me. I've only tried it once, and didn't try to stop the rattling. I have four 18500 cells so there's almost always a fully charged set on standby. I've never tried to stop them from rattling, so I guess rolled paper might do well.
 

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
Nice setup.:twothumbs

Yeah... extra cells and a multi-mode drop in was my solution to help extend run times. I still think you should give the Leef body and 2x18500 cells a shot. You wouldn't loose much size-wise to the stock 9P, and you get the bonus of HA Type III for the body and enhanced knurl grip.

Although its hard to argue against the convenience of 3xPrimaries.

Aw heck... just buy them all :poke: :duck:


2x18500....

Leef has one for sale I noticed.. .(On LightHound)

FiveMega is another option for 2x18650. I might just tell him not to apply finish it at all, and ship it off to have it NP3 finished. It's a much more "cool" finish, supposedly the best you can get (The price reflects that)
 

etc

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,777
Location
Northern Virginia
Thanks for the pics. It appears I took off a lot less. It's hard to remove a lot using fine sandpaper.
 

winm70

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
5
etc
Great review on your 9P
I filed the module a little at a time checked the fit to the body then did a little more. When I had the module down enough so that it sat flush with the body I stopped. I had the module sitting as it is in the picture to file the length down. If you take your time it is very easy to do. As you can see in the pic I was a little sloppy with the sealant it hidden so it's not an issue to me.
 
Last edited:
Top