Surefire A2 Aviator bi-pin adaptors/Tad's customs

teak

teak

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All going fine here, even still on original bulbs (maybe I shouldn't have ordered so many backups??)..

Damn Koala is still making rings?!? May have to look into that...
Ha! Yes, well it's better to have all those extras. I have a bunch as well of all flavors but I use the 3718. It's not a bunch brighter then the 3712 but it has a nice edge over it, plus I don't notice any difference in runtime. I charge the imr's every week, even if they don't really need it. I use the leds more anyway. One note, I don't notice any brightness increase with IMRs over primaries in the Y/G model. Exact same from what I can tell. I find the Y/G to be the most useful over the other leds, next to Amber.

Yep, koala is still making the onion rings.
 
1pt21

1pt21

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I have a bunch as well of all flavors but I use the 3718. I charge the imr's every week, even if they don't really need it. I use the leds more anyway. One note, I don't notice any brightness increase with IMRs over primaries in the Y/G model.

Yep, koala is still making the onion rings.

Damn, I've been using the 3.0v Tenergy rechargeables (whatever chemistry those are) for YEARS because of the fear that was instilled in me WAAAY back when (driver damage). Had no idea I could run 3.7/4.2's without harm to the driver, never mind IMR's... :shrug:

And sweet, thanks for the info on the Koala Rings. Don't have a need for one at the moment as I'm running custom rings in all of my A2's (can't remember the sellers name from a few years back, but I bought many haha).. Knowing me, now that I have this knowledge, I'll be contacting Koala. So many sweet custom incan offerings that I used used to be able to get (e.g. FiveMega) fell off the radar so quickly that I hop on the custom stuff ASAP and don't sleep on them anymore. Hence the reason that I own multiple of every single one of TAD's adapters, with a plethora of his bulbs :whistle:

Thanks again for the info!!!
 
teak

teak

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Damn, I've been using the 3.0v Tenergy rechargeables (whatever chemistry those are) for YEARS because of the fear that was instilled in me WAAAY back when (driver damage). Had no idea I could run 3.7/4.2's without harm to the driver, never mind IMR's... :shrug:

And sweet, thanks for the info on the Koala Rings. Don't have a need for one at the moment as I'm running custom rings in all of my A2's (can't remember the sellers name from a few years back, but I bought many haha).. Knowing me, now that I have this knowledge, I'll be contacting Koala. So many sweet custom incan offerings that I used used to be able to get (e.g. FiveMega) fell off the radar so quickly that I hop on the custom stuff ASAP and don't sleep on them anymore. Hence the reason that I own multiple of every single one of TAD's adapters, with a plethora of his bulbs :whistle:

Thanks again for the info!!!
Yes, all I've ever used was IMR 's in my A2s. AW. It's been info forever that the driver in an a2 can handle 9 volts. I've only read one person burning out the driver. So many have been using IMRs over the years. [emoji12]
 
archimedes

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It's the LEDs in the stock ring that get overdriven, I believe. And the Calipsoii Ring corrects this potential issue, IIRC ....
 
teak

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It's the LEDs in the stock ring that get overdriven, I believe. And the Calipsoii Ring corrects this potential issue, IIRC ....
The factory led ring in my y/g don't seem to be overdriven. No perceivable notice by the naked eye anyway.
 
archimedes

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teak

teak

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I've read all that stuff, however from what I just read, the overdrive issue is when high is used. That make sense. Either way I'll continue with the imr's like I have for 5+ years in my other a2s 😁
 
archimedes

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As you wish, of course, although others may not want to knowingly do so ... especially since there are numerous solutions available which avoid those issues entirely :shrug:
 
teak

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As you wish, of course, although others may not want to knowingly do so ... especially since there are numerous solutions available which avoid those issues entirely :shrug:
Oh I have koala ring in transit for this y/g. Just awaiting it's arrival.
 
calipsoii

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I've read all that stuff, however from what I just read, the overdrive issue is when high is used. That make sense. Either way I'll continue with the imr's like I have for 5+ years in my other a2s 

The stock A2 ring is powered directly off the battery stack. Current-limiting is handled via a single resistor to each 5mm LED. Voltage to the ring doesn't change whether the bulb is lit or not. Increasing the voltage by changing the battery chemistry increases current through each LED.

An example using Y/G LED's with a generous voltage droop of 3.9V (instead of 4.2V fresh off the charger):
ChemistryVbattVfIledRledDrive %
2x CR1236V2.1V25mA(6V - 2.1V)/0.025A = 156 ohm0.025/0.025*100 = 100%
2x IMR163407.8V2.1V7.8V/156 = 50mA156 ohm0.050/0.025*100 = 200%

At 200% overdrive the LED may not instantly poof. It's likely the emitter will age at a greatly increased rate and output capacity will decrease faster. So instead of 10,000h of guaranteed output life you may get 2,500h or 1,000h.

Each aftermarket A2 ring behaved differently with different voltages:
  • Aviatrix: same as stock - resistors need changed if LED Vf changed
  • calipsoii: voltage regulated - Vbatt clipped to 5V and Iled regulated via resistor
  • Onion rings: current regulated - Iled set via trimpot

koala's option is the most technically advanced and covers all batteries and LED forward voltages. archimedes is correct that other users may not be comfortable shortening the life on their (now-discontinued) torch and may want to seek an aftermarket ring to use with 8.4V rechargeables.

Hope that helps!
 
archimedes

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Thanks @calipsoii for chiming in here ... your technical expertise is much appreciated [emoji106]
 
teak

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The stock A2 ring is powered directly off the battery stack. Current-limiting is handled via a single resistor to each 5mm LED. Voltage to the ring doesn't change whether the bulb is lit or not. Increasing the voltage by changing the battery chemistry increases current through each LED.

An example using Y/G LED's with a generous voltage droop of 3.9V (instead of 4.2V fresh off the charger):
ChemistryVbattVfIledRledDrive %
2x CR1236V2.1V25mA(6V - 2.1V)/0.025A = 156 ohm0.025/0.025*100 = 100%
2x IMR163407.8V2.1V7.8V/156 = 50mA156 ohm0.050/0.025*100 = 200%

At 200% overdrive the LED may not instantly poof. It's likely the emitter will age at a greatly increased rate and output capacity will decrease faster. So instead of 10,000h of guaranteed output life you may get 2,500h or 1,000h.

Each aftermarket A2 ring behaved differently with different voltages:
  • Aviatrix: same as stock - resistors need changed if LED Vf changed
  • calipsoii: voltage regulated - Vbatt clipped to 5V and Iled regulated via resistor
  • Onion rings: current regulated - Iled set via trimpot

koala's option is the most technically advanced and covers all batteries and LED forward voltages. archimedes is correct that other users may not be comfortable shortening the life on their (now-discontinued) torch and may want to seek an aftermarket ring to use with 8.4V rechargeables.

Hope that helps!
Yes, thanks for breaking that down. I can see why some would not want to overdrive the leds for sure. I wasn't questioning that at all. I figured most people knew by now. I didn't want to use imr's in my a2s for a long time being afraid of burning the driver. Once that's done it's all over, then we have to move on to something else. [emoji38]
 
M

ma tumba

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The stock A2 ring is powered directly off the battery stack. Current-limiting is handled via a single resistor to each 5mm LED. Voltage to the ring doesn't change whether the bulb is lit or not. Increasing the voltage by changing the battery chemistry increases current through each LED.

An example using Y/G LED's with a generous voltage droop of 3.9V (instead of 4.2V fresh off the charger):
ChemistryVbattVfIledRledDrive %
2x CR1236V2.1V25mA(6V - 2.1V)/0.025A = 156 ohm0.025/0.025*100 = 100%
2x IMR163407.8V2.1V7.8V/156 = 50mA156 ohm0.050/0.025*100 = 200%

At 200% overdrive the LED may not instantly poof. It's likely the emitter will age at a greatly increased rate and output capacity will decrease faster. So instead of 10,000h of guaranteed output life you may get 2,500h or 1,000h.

Each aftermarket A2 ring behaved differently with different voltages:
  • Aviatrix: same as stock - resistors need changed if LED Vf changed
  • calipsoii: voltage regulated - Vbatt clipped to 5V and Iled regulated via resistor
  • Onion rings: current regulated - Iled set via trimpot

koala's option is the most technically advanced and covers all batteries and LED forward voltages. archimedes is correct that other users may not be comfortable shortening the life on their (now-discontinued) torch and may want to seek an aftermarket ring to use with 8.4V rechargeables.

Hope that helps!
While Koala rings may have the technical advantage, a calipsoii multimode ring is in entirely different league as far as versatiliy is concerned. For example, I installed 2x 3200K high cri yuji leds and 1x 5600 high cri yuji led and now suddenly I have a truly universal flashlight. I have a sublumen incand-like (3200K) nightstand mode, a general purpose ~30lm 4000K light and a 10lm high noon 5600K high cri light for critical color inspection tasks. I don't think any flashlight, including TriV, could come close to this. And of course that great regulated incand bulb still works great for up to 100 yards at night
 
xdayv

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Hey guys... so are you able to run safely with 1x16650 or 2x16340 on a TAD customs bulb? If yes; what specific TAD bulb do you recommend?
 
WarriorOfLight

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The Tad Bulds will be used at ~4V. The A2 is a regulated incan light. The only thing I do not know is if the flashlight driver is 8,4V capable. I use my A2 only with CR123s.
 
teak

teak

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The Tad Bulds will be used at ~4V. The A2 is a regulated incan light. The only thing I do not know is if the flashlight driver is 8,4V capable. I use my A2 only with CR123s.
Many have successfully used 16340s for years. The factory ring will overdrive the leds for sure so use at your own risk.

All 3 of the tads bubs work great in the a2. 4812, 3712 and 3718.

4812 is lower output longer runtime. 3712 is comparable to factory ma02 and 3718 is a tad brighter. Get the bipin adaptor and select the 3 bulb configuration, then you can choose which you prefer.
 
bykfixer

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I just acquired an A2 beater so it's time to choose...
Not adapter or not as that is a given... but which bulb.
Leaning heavily towards the 3712 in bulk. Idea being buy the 10 pack with my order. Nostalgia is the idea and 80 lumens is plenty.

FYI, According to the site: the 4812 does 50 under-driven lumens in an A2, 3712 is 80 and the 3718 is about 140 lumens.
 
B

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TThe only thing I do not know is if the flashlight driver is 8,4V capable. I use my A2 only with CR123s.

I've use my A2 with 2X 16340's, and stock lamp, off and on for years. No apparent wear on main bulb or LED's.

Bill
 
Lumen83

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I just acquired an A2 beater so it's time to choose...
Not adapter or not as that is a given... but which bulb.
Leaning heavily towards the 3712 in bulk. Idea being buy the 10 pack with my order. Nostalgia is the idea and 80 lumens is plenty.

FYI, According to the site: the 4812 does 50 under-driven lumens in an A2, 3712 is 80 and the 3718 is about 140 lumens.

I have both the 3712 and the 3718. I honestly can't tell the difference. They both seem as bright and as white. I have a 4 flats aviator and a round version. Don't know if there is any difference. But the 18 is in the 4 flats and the 12 is in the round one. And, they both appear exactly the same to me. I'd go with the 3712 for the longer run times since they seem so close.
 

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