Brian321
Enlightened
Ok im trying to decide which surefire to buy for my night hikes, I am trying to decide between the E1E or E2E. Im also open to suggestions. What do you guys think would be better?
Surefire E1E or E2E for night hikes...?
- Thread starter Brian321
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jp2515
Flashlight Enthusiast
I would go with the 2 cell lights for the run time. There is a little more bulk for the 2 cell light but you trade that for more run time. Then there's always the option to carry another light, 2 is 1 and 1 is none.
carrot
Flashaholic
The added output of the E2e really helps, but to be honest the lower runtime compared to LEDs is a real bummer. In any case, the E2e is also a great platform for fun add ons like the lumens factory stuff.
Brian321
Enlightened
Yea i want an LED for the runtime but i want an Incan for the color rendition. Yea i was trying to let the lumens factory stuff help me make my dicision but i still cant decide. There is the EO-E1R i could use for the E1E, and theres the EO-E2R for the E2E but im just not sure. Is there more for the E2E other than bulbs, or is that what you meant by "lumens factory stuff"? Thanks.
carrot
Flashaholic
Bulbs mostly, but if you want LED there's always the VME adapter to use a Malkoff on it. Great setup too.
saabgoblin
Enlightened
Should you go with the E2e, you can go with the Lumens Factory Bulbs that use rechargeable batteries as Carrot has mentioned(as long as you know how to safely use lithium ion rechargeables)and or you can order Surefires MNo2 longer running(2.5HR) bulb for the E2e but I would carry spare batteries as well. There is also the E2l-LED, the E1l-LED Outdoorsman and numerous Led heads to add onto your E2e which is a great platform to start with. Surefires E1B is a great little light as well but I prefer one of Surefires add on switches(Z68?)that allow a lanyard attatchement for securing to my pack or you could just go with a holster.
Personally, I wouldn't rule out the new E2DL with 200 Lumens and a nice high low output choices, any way that you go, the "E" series is a great platform in and of itself and they can be modified in a number of ways and Gene Malkoff makes an adapter for the "E" series dropins that he produces. Google Malkoff if you are unfamiliar and while his products are often sold out, they come highly recommended.
Just to play Devils Advocate:devil:, you could always look at Surefires Headlamps as well, I kind of like the Minimus but I have only tested the beam indoors in a shop so I am uncertain of the beam profile.
Personally, I wouldn't rule out the new E2DL with 200 Lumens and a nice high low output choices, any way that you go, the "E" series is a great platform in and of itself and they can be modified in a number of ways and Gene Malkoff makes an adapter for the "E" series dropins that he produces. Google Malkoff if you are unfamiliar and while his products are often sold out, they come highly recommended.
Just to play Devils Advocate:devil:, you could always look at Surefires Headlamps as well, I kind of like the Minimus but I have only tested the beam indoors in a shop so I am uncertain of the beam profile.
angelofwar
Flashlight Enthusiast
The MN02 in the E2e will give you 2.5 hours runtime...and the 25 lumens is sufficient for most tasks. I prefer to use incans out doors as well.
Brian321
Enlightened
Yea, i have a SF 6P with a Malkoff M61.But i need to add to my collection. Does the E2DL or E2L outdoors man have the blueish tint of the LED or are they warmer?
Keep in mind my night hikes usually dont last more than a few hours, If im going to be out for awhile I will just bring an LED.
computernut
Enlightened
I have an E2E that I'm pretty sure an AW 17670 will fit into (a 17500 fits diameter-wise no prob). I'm going to pick up a Lumens Factory EO-E1R lamp for it and have 90 lumens (apx 60L OTF) for ~70minutes. Keep some spare cells pre-charged and a spare lamp (or spare light) and you're all set. If the E2E you get doesn't take 17mm cells you can bore it out a bit (do a search on the forum for steps).
kelmo
Flashlight Enthusiast
E2e w/MN02 LA gives 2.5 hours of runtime. With a fully loaded SC3 you will theoretically get 7.5 hours of 25 lumen output.
E1e will give you 1.5 hours of runtime. With a fully loaded SC3 you will theoretically get 7.5 hours of 15 lumen output.
I would go with the 25 lumen option. Plus you also can bring a MN03 LA for a brighter option with the E2e.
The advantage of the E1e would be it uses only one cell. So if you do have a dud you have 3 more spares. One dud for the E2e means you only have one more battery set.
I have used both in night hikes, 25 lumens is perfect when it is really dark IMHO!
kelmo
E1e will give you 1.5 hours of runtime. With a fully loaded SC3 you will theoretically get 7.5 hours of 15 lumen output.
I would go with the 25 lumen option. Plus you also can bring a MN03 LA for a brighter option with the E2e.
The advantage of the E1e would be it uses only one cell. So if you do have a dud you have 3 more spares. One dud for the E2e means you only have one more battery set.
I have used both in night hikes, 25 lumens is perfect when it is really dark IMHO!
kelmo
saabgoblin
Enlightened
I can only speak for my E1B and the E2DL's that I have tried and I would say that they are more of a Neutral crisp pure white output but I have always heard of the "tint lottery" so I am sure that there are variations to each but I feel that SF quality control keeps the tints within reasonable limits. I even have some older model LED L1's from Surefire and they were able to get rid of most if not all of the blue from some of their earlier models. Basically, I would say to buy new from a reputable dealer so you could always return the product if you aren't happy and Malkoff does make a Valiant Concepts head to allow his M60's to be used on an E series platform so you could just throw in your M61 with the McGizmo reflector which I am pretty sure is a great beam profile judging from my LS20.
Since you already have a 6P with the M61, you may want to consider the E1e because this will allow you to use a lower level better color rendition light for up close work, map reading, and general trail navigation and you can always pull out the M61 for spotting and bushwacking. The E1e fits great on a hat brim to be used as a headlamp of sorts if you need hands free applications and you can always bring along a SC3 spares carrier for ruintimes and an extra bulb for the E1e. The 15 Lumens of the E1e will be pretty bright in total darkness and I used to use an 8 Lumen incan headlamp for years until just a few years ago when I started searching out longer running headlamps.
I totally understand about wanting to have the warmth of an incandescent especially when outdoors so go old school for the sake of beauty and carry a powerful led for when you need power and in case of an emergency.
Best of both worlds until Malkoff does another run of M60W's when he is feeling better although I believe that there are still some warm flood models still available.
Since you already have a 6P with the M61, you may want to consider the E1e because this will allow you to use a lower level better color rendition light for up close work, map reading, and general trail navigation and you can always pull out the M61 for spotting and bushwacking. The E1e fits great on a hat brim to be used as a headlamp of sorts if you need hands free applications and you can always bring along a SC3 spares carrier for ruintimes and an extra bulb for the E1e. The 15 Lumens of the E1e will be pretty bright in total darkness and I used to use an 8 Lumen incan headlamp for years until just a few years ago when I started searching out longer running headlamps.
I totally understand about wanting to have the warmth of an incandescent especially when outdoors so go old school for the sake of beauty and carry a powerful led for when you need power and in case of an emergency.
Best of both worlds until Malkoff does another run of M60W's when he is feeling better although I believe that there are still some warm flood models still available.
Kestrel
Flashaholic
I carried an E1 for over a year (and used it quite often) but found that it was just a little too small for a good fit to my hand - I found that I really preferred a slightly longer flashlight body.
Also, regarding battery capacity, if/when you go to using LiIon rechargeables, keep in mind that if you can get a single 17670 into the E2E (from what I read, the diameter is a pretty close call on some of them), you will be getting nearly 6 watt-hours from the 17670 in an E2E vs about 2 watt-hours from an IMR123 or RCR123 in a E1E (or 4 watt-hours from 2xIMR123/RCR123 in the E2E). The E2E has a substantial advantage in capacity over the E1E.
Even if you stay with non-rechargeable CR123's, two cells at a lower drain rate will provide more than twice the energy compared to one cell at a relatively high drain rate - so for the same wattage output, you get slightly more than twice the runtime by using two cells simultaneously.
E2E all the way, IMO.
Now, LED vs Incan, that's a whole 'nother story... ;-)
Hope this helps,
Also, regarding battery capacity, if/when you go to using LiIon rechargeables, keep in mind that if you can get a single 17670 into the E2E (from what I read, the diameter is a pretty close call on some of them), you will be getting nearly 6 watt-hours from the 17670 in an E2E vs about 2 watt-hours from an IMR123 or RCR123 in a E1E (or 4 watt-hours from 2xIMR123/RCR123 in the E2E). The E2E has a substantial advantage in capacity over the E1E.
Even if you stay with non-rechargeable CR123's, two cells at a lower drain rate will provide more than twice the energy compared to one cell at a relatively high drain rate - so for the same wattage output, you get slightly more than twice the runtime by using two cells simultaneously.
E2E all the way, IMO.
Now, LED vs Incan, that's a whole 'nother story... ;-)
Hope this helps,
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rookiedaddy
Enlightened
it's a lottery and it's the main reason I don't get my SureFire LED lights online. both my E2DL bought from retail store and I get to choose the tint I like (that means I pay 20-30% higher than getting it online). 1 is "pure-white" while another is a hard to come-by "creamy-white".
E2DL tints that I've tested range from blueish to greenish, there are some slightly warm (with hints of yellow) but somehow these doesn't "seems" as bright when comparing side-by-side to those cooler tint. :shrug:
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saabgoblin
Enlightened
Very good points by Kelmo and Kestrel regarding run times and bang for your buck in lumens in posts #10 and #12.:thumbsup:
Outdoors Fanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
E2e + HO-E1R + AW 17670 -->> this is what you want for the outdoors.
Read these threads:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/257141
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/156188
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/170277
Kestrel
Flashaholic
Outdoors Fanatic is one of those hardcore incandescent guys, his advice is almost certainly spot-on. :thumbsup:
Brian321
Enlightened
Thanks for all the replies. So i just got back from cabela's. I played with them in the store(they even had batteries in them) , I liked the E2E so i bought it. So i get home just now and check my email and I won a Surefire E2L from ebay that i bid on the other day. Now i dont know what to do keep them both or sell one of them? What do you guys think?
P.S. I won the bid for a brand new E2L HA-WH For $66.00:nana:, BTW: what does HA-WH mean? Thanks.
) , I liked the E2E so i bought it. So i get home just now and check my email and I won a Surefire E2L from ebay that i bid on the other day. Now i dont know what to do keep them both or sell one of them? What do you guys think?P.S. I won the bid for a brand new E2L HA-WH For $66.00:nana:, BTW: what does HA-WH mean? Thanks.
kramer5150
Flashaholic
If you are wanting an incan... you might want to consider the A2. Love mine, use it every night.
Hack On Wheels
Enlightened
HA indicates the finish/colour... that means it is Hard Anodized in the natural finish (as it doesn't specify BK/black). WH should be referring to the colour of the LED, which is white.
If your E2L will be arriving soon, maybe wait and see how you like that before deciding whether or not to keep the E2E.
