Surefire LX2 (Part 2)

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SureFire is not just committed to producing the world's finest illumination tools™ and tactical equipment — we're also committed to making SureFire products as environmentally friendly as possible.

If Surefire is on this great enviromental kick, why don't they support renewable assets, i.e. rechargeable batteries for their lights?😎

I know, they sell a lot of nonrechargeable batteries but still, they could be a little more green in this area to save the whales etc.
 
I finally had a few situations to test out the LX2. The tint is a little greenish, especially on low mode. High mode seems white, which is okay. Compared to my E2DL, the LX2's light is darker. But the LX2 has a bigger hotspot, illuminating a larger target, whereas the E2DL has a smaller hotspot, but appears brighter. But that may be because of the whiter color of the light. Other than the pocket clip rubbing the tailcap, it is a pretty decent light.
 
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I finally had a few situations to test out the LX2. The tint is a little greenish, especially on low mode. High mode seems white, which is okay. Compared to my E2DL, the LX2's light is darker. But the LX2 has a bigger hotspot, illuminating a larger target, whereas the E2DL has a smaller hotspot, but appears brighter. But that may be because of the whiter color of the light. Other than the pocket clip rubbing the tailcap, it is a pretty decent light.

Purchase a reasonably priced lightmeter and you can do some real testing of your lights, comparing them with each other. You can do lux measurements at one meter, and do bounce with your lightmeter to compare one light against the other. Surprising what kind of info you can come up with and then you can make some assumptions about color of the beam affecting brightness, etc.

Bill
 
Thanks Al and Bernie for the explanation in regards to the new alternatives to chem coating. If it is good for the environment and us, then I am all for it! I am a nature lover as well and I would very much prefer the lights to run on rechargeable like what Vox Clamatis in Deserto said, but I respect Surefire's point of view when they claimed that their lights are designed to run on primary batteries in view of stability.
 
Thanks Al and Bernie for the explanation in regards to the new alternatives to chem coating. If it is good for the environment and us, then I am all for it! I am a nature lover as well and I would very much prefer the lights to run on rechargeable like what Vox Clamatis in Deserto said, but I respect Surefire's point of view when they claimed that their lights are designed to run on primary batteries in view of stability.

Just use a 17670 in any Surefire C, P, and Z-series light. You can use RCR123 cells in any Surefire. (You just need to get the right Lumens Factory lamp to handle the increase in voltage).

You don't need a custom body to handle 18650 or 18500 cells. (But it helps).
 
Just use a 17670 in any Surefire C, P, and Z-series light. You can use RCR123 cells in any Surefire. (You just need to get the right Lumens Factory lamp to handle the increase in voltage).

You don't need a custom body to handle 18650 or 18500 cells. (But it helps).
Help me to recall here. 17670 is one battery unit in equivalent to 2 pieces RCR123 in terms of length? Would it run well at 3.7v instead of 6v? What I have are some AW's protected RCR123. Would 2 pieces of RCR123 run well in the LX2? I recall reading earlier in this thread that the LX2 does get very hot with 2 pieces of RCR123 after running for a few minutes on high mode. Would I be frying the circuitry?
 
Help me to recall here. 17670 is one battery unit in equivalent to 2 pieces RCR123 in terms of length? Would it run well at 3.7v instead of 6v? What I have are some AW's protected RCR123. Would 2 pieces of RCR123 run well in the LX2? I recall reading earlier in this thread that the LX2 does get very hot with 2 pieces of RCR123 after running for a few minutes on high mode. Would I be frying the circuitry?

In terms of length, one 17670 equals two CR123 cells. AW Protected 17670 cells are 3.7volts each.

Surefire specifically tries to discourage use of rechargeable cells in their lights. I wouldn't risk running two RCR123 cells in the LX2. The difference between 6volts vs. 7.4volts could be enough to do some damage. I personally wouldn't risk it in an expensive light specifically set up for 6volts. But that's just me.
 
Got my LX2 a couple of weeks ago and like it a whole lot. The output really rocks, and though I've never like TIR optics for their low-spill tunnelvision effect, this one seems like a decent compromise between throw and spill. I do miss the grippy knurling of the older design however which seemed more functional.

I like the design of the clip, but extending over the tailcap seems like a design oversight. I don't care about scratches, but it makes it very difficult to use the twisty function. Might be fine on a clicky light, but not one one that requires the tailcap to be twisted for constant on (an interface I have loved since my old L4 and McE2s...great combo). Anyway I took the clip off mine and replaced it with the one from my old L4. It does not hold the light as well, but at least it does not interfere with the tailcap function.

I have never been a fan of TIR optics, but the LX2's beam is the best I've seen from an optic. I like the combination of throw and usable spill (not the rings though). The output from this light is really amazing and combined with a diffuser can make a great flood like the old L2 and L4.
 
I finally had a few situations to test out the LX2. The tint is a little greenish, especially on low mode. High mode seems white, which is okay. Compared to my E2DL, the LX2's light is darker. But the LX2 has a bigger hotspot, illuminating a larger target, whereas the E2DL has a smaller hotspot, but appears brighter. But that may be because of the whiter color of the light. Other than the pocket clip rubbing the tailcap, it is a pretty decent light.

I thought the same thing when I first got my LX2. My E2DL seemed brighter. I decided to try some beamshots to affirm my impressions. By shooting some underexposed shots and sampling the images in photoshop, it turns out that the LX2 is brighter, despite my impressions.

Here are my results, FWIW:



It might have something to due with the shape of the respective beams. The E2DL has a slightly smaller and more defined hotspot, perhaps making it appear brighter.
 
I like the design of the clip, but extending over the tailcap seems like a design oversight. I don't care about scratches, but it makes it very difficult to use the twisty function. Might be fine on a clicky light, but not one one that requires the tailcap to be twisted for constant on (an interface I have loved since my old L4 and McE2s...great combo).

I second that in regards to the clip. Already 2nd day using the LX2 and I could see some minor scratches on the tail cap. I don't mind the scratches though but like you, I find the clip a hindrance to use with the rotary tail cap.
 
Thanks for posting your results, mfrey.

BTW, does anyone gently lift the end of the pocket clip when twisting the tailcap? That's what I've been doing, but in the middle of a pitch black forest I was hiking in yesterday, I had to stop babying the light and just twist it despite of the rubbing. It hurts me because I know eventually it will scratch the tailcap.
 
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BTW, does anyone gently lift the end of the pocket clip when twisting the tailcap?

I don't actually, just so as to satisfy my own curiosity as to how tough the anodizing can be. I recall reading somewhere in Surefire's website claiming the anodizing makes the light surface almost as tough as diamonds. If it really is as tough as diamonds, it shouldn't scratch so easily but one night with me and I already spotted some very fine and minor scratches on the tail cap. Btw, I don't really baby all my lights. I treat them like toys as well as tools.
 
Playing lego's last night, I decided to put the LX2 head on a 1 cell body(VG FB1) and the output was little bit brighter than my Novatac 120P running on 1xRCR123(3.7v). Combo make for a really nice compact EDC.
 
When I first noticed the contact I put an 1/8" (3mm) thick -210 Nitrile O-Ring to slightly lift the clip away from the body. It rests in in the groove close to the tailcap and lifts the clip away from the tailcap so there is no contact. Since then I also put 3 GITD 3/4" (19mm) O-rings on the LX-2 that I bought from Sigman in the CPFMarketplace I put one on each side of the Nitrile O-ring and one in the groove on the threaded end of the head. The GITD O-Rings are thinner stock so they are not thick enough by themselves to keep the clip from contacting the body. They are a better fit into the grooves on the head however.

BTW, does anyone gently lift the end of the pocket clip when twisting the tailcap? That's what I've been doing, but in the middle of a pitch black forest I was hiking in yesterday, I had to stop babying the light and just twist it despite of the rubbing. It hurts me because I know eventually it will scratch the tailcap.

I don't actually, just so as to satisfy my own curiosity as to how tough the anodizing can be. I recall reading somewhere in Surefire's website claiming the anodizing makes the light surface almost as tough as diamonds. If it really is as tough as diamonds, it shouldn't scratch so easily but one night with me and I already spotted some very fine and minor scratches on the tail cap. Btw, I don't really baby all my lights. I treat them like toys as well as tools.
 
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I just got my LX2 today, and I think the mismatch doesn't look too bad. The beam color and throw was very good, but when I compared it to my black and silver E1B and to the E2DL I noticed that the beam was somewhat irregular. My previously mentioned SF lights offered a nearly perfect beam. This one looks somewhat like an oval shape. I've never had this problem with other TIR lights. Can the rest of you who own the LX2 tell me if you have a "perfect" circle, or is it somewhat irregular? Other than this it's a great light, and the bezel down carry is great.
 
I just got my LX2 today, and I think the mismatch doesn't look too bad. The beam color and throw was very good, but when I compared it to my black and silver E1B and to the E2DL I noticed that the beam was somewhat irregular. My previously mentioned SF lights offered a nearly perfect beam. This one looks somewhat like an oval shape. I've never had this problem with other TIR lights. Can the rest of you who own the LX2 tell me if you have a "perfect" circle, or is it somewhat irregular? Other than this it's a great light, and the bezel down carry is great.
I personally think the mismatch colors are fantastically beautiful. By chance anyway. Other times the mismatched colors are horrible.

Mine has a very nice and rounded beam pattern. I do notice 2 coronas on the hot spot though. A brighter center with a slightly less bright outer corona, then followed by the corona from the side spill. In actual usage, not noticeable at all.

EDIT TO ADD: I believe the oval shape has got to do with a misalignment of the LED against the TIR optics but I am not sure. Not the expert here.
 
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Yes that's what it is.

I have 2, one is nearly perfect and the other was off a good bit. I opened up the one that was off and centered the emitter. Now it is 100%.
If you don't want to un-stick the emitter and wiggle it around to find the sweet spot you could play with the optic. There is a very tiny amount of wiggle room there that may help. Just unscrew the ring that holds the optic against the lens and start moving it a bit and tightening the ring again. It is a near random process of trial and error but it can help out.
 
I think my first purchase may be the LX2.
Seems to be a good size, good balance spot/spill, waterproof. If it ends up being too big for EDC it can become my fishing/hunting/hiking/camping carry.
Anyone throw a colored filter on it yet?
 
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