Surefire LX2 (Part 2)

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270winchester said:
the Nightcore is a one cell light, no?

If they can get regulated 200 lumens OTF one primary cell, that would be something. Remember many import lights claim "225 lumens extreme tactical!!!!" when they are only putting out 90-150.

Ah the wonders of marketing.
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It is indeed a 1 cell light, (was running it with an RCR123 though), but the Nitecore Extreme I believe has been tested OTF outputting a true 200+ lumens. In addition it gets rather hot if you leave it on too long. Also, I don't think the runtime is over one hour with a primary, as the LX2 is 2 hours. Comparison only for lumen check! lol
 
270winchester said:
fair enough. how does it do with primary cell then?
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It was the extreme I was running with the RCR123, the LX2 w primaries. I believe according to Nitecore, the extreme drops to 190lumens on a primary, but the runtime goes up to 75 minutes.

I don't think the LX2 will run on RCR's... at least i'm not brave enough to try it!
 
Zeruel said:
If E2DL can take RCR, I don't see why not for LX2. Do it! :devil:
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No. :laughing:

lol... I'm quite happy running the primaries! Screw the environment! Besides, I've got about 25-30 of them sitting around now, and Batterystation is just a click away!
 
Sean said:
Here's a picture of how and where my LX2 clip rubs on the tailcap:

dsc8947b.jpg


It does not seem to be much of an issue for me because it barely touches the tailcap. Carefully bending the clip away from the tailcap would seem to be the easiest "mod" one could do to eliminate this if they see it as a problem.
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Try this. This is what i did on my Eagletac. I simply took a wire (gotta estimate the diameter in relation to the clip width) and gutted the interior. I then slid the rubber piece to where the clip hits against the light. Hope this helps.
IMG_0178.jpg

IMG_0181.jpg
 
SuperLightMan said:
Try this. This is what i did on my Eagletac. I simply took a wire (gotta estimate the diameter in relation to the clip width) and gutted the interior. I then slid the rubber piece to where the clip hits against the light. Hope this helps.
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Thanks SuperLightMan! This is brilliant in its simplicity! I'll try this on my LX2! :twothumbs
 
MPG of cars is not gauranteed. A gaurantee means you can return it for not meeting a spec, while stated MPG or lumens is only an indication to be used to compare to other products tested the same way. i.e. by the same manufacturer or rating agency (such as the EPA for US MPG).
Can I return the 1000L light I bought on eBay because it is only 150L?? No. (I bought no such light, btw) Those are the people mis-stating their numbers and making it harder to compare stated specs, not SureFire. SureFire is doing the right thing, Most others are doing the wrong thing.
Moonshadow said:
...I'm not sure that this argument would hold water with any other product. For example, a customer won't be able to measure miles per gallon on a car under the same conditions as the manufacturer, but we'd still expect the published specs to be accurate and meaningful.

The numbers should allow a meaningful comparison between products, otherwise there's not much point in publishing them in the first place.
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The glow stuff is surrounding the emitter and goes from one side of the heatsink cup to the other. The neat narrow ring effect is because just the very edge of the optic around the emitter transmits the light straight forward. In the dark you can still detect some glow 12 hours after the light was last used!
Yes that reflective tape is SOLAS, it was given to me by member AngelofWar.
I might add that the Holster is by member Hogokansatsukan and was actually for an A2 but I wet molded it to the LX2.
 
Re: Play in the tailcap threads

youreacrab said:
When i press the momentary switch i can feel some play in the tailcap threads. Any proven way of fixing this? Anyone try a larger o-ring or teflon tape on the threads? Don't want to make it much harder to turn, but would like to firm up the action a bit. Thanks.
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My L1 is exactly the same. After I bought it SF sent me a replacement switch, the result was the same. I am going to try teflon tape right now. I never saw this (non) "problem" posted before. FWW After all of these months I now know that mine is not the only one.
 
SGT that light is probably THE best looking light ive ever seen since I joined CPF. From the Solar to the trits to the GITD behind the LED/TIR. Just a great looking light. You MIGHT have a PM incoming. 😗

DOH! Just noticed the GITD O-ring in the head. Just when I thought it couldnt look any better?
 
Hello everyone, just my luck I guess. SF never replies to any of my mails, even those I posted afew months back. I'm going to take things in my own hands and slowly give up on them.

Will any kind soul who knows how to open the head of the LX2 up please give me some advice as to how I should go about doing it? I'll need to do that to remove the optics for cleaning... it's just too dirty and there are some stains which irritates me badly. I'll just tell myself the minor nicks on the body is fine... But I'm not surviving on dirty optics. My other SF lights never had such problems out of the box.

Thanks in advance!
 
Palestofwhite said:
Hello everyone, just my luck I guess. SF never replies to any of my mails, even those I posted afew months back. I'm going to take things in my own hands and slowly give up on them.

Will any kind soul who knows how to open the head of the LX2 up please give me some advice as to how I should go about doing it? I'll need to do that to remove the optics for cleaning... it's just too dirty and there are some stains which irritates me badly. I'll just tell myself the minor nicks on the body is fine... But I'm not surviving on dirty optics. My other SF lights never had such problems out of the box.

Thanks in advance!
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Forget the e-mails, CALL them. They have always been responsive when I needed help although a follow up call was occasionally necessary.
 
Sgt. LED said:
OK I gave up on the LX2 adoration and got back to regular business. Today I cracked into it more than just putting 2 trits into the clip. There is AR on the lens and down in the pocket of the optic. Inside the build looks just the same as any other E series Cree.

I took off the lanyard ring but it can go back on if I need it, I probably won't.
I put a stripe of SOLAS reflective tape in the former lanyard ring space, looks nice and is recessed deep enough so nothing will ever bother the tape.
I opened the head and centered the emitter properly, throw increased a bit.
I also put a glow disk down in there and the fit is perfect, I think there are more OTF lumens now thanks to the higher reflectivity and the afterglow is impressive.
In the small bezel gap that these all have I put a 1/2 inch GITD O-ring in there before I put the head back together, it couldn't look nicer and does not stick out at all!
An A2 tailstanding ring is enroute as well, it will fit just fine.

I took a half hour walk with it on high after the tinkering and all is quite well. NOW this is really MY LX2! 😀 Tomorrow I will have to toss a pic up here.
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Sgt. LED custom mod shop! :thumbsup: 😉 Taking any orders right now? 😎
 
I can do it.
You supply the bits and I'll get them in there! :twothumbs But anyone can do the stuff I do.

Really these E series are cake to work on once you get over the fear of hurting a pricy piece. Sometimes you just have to break stuff so you can learn. I learned what I know by breaking my old stuff and thru CPF getting it to work again.
 
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