I see. I get what you mean. Generally, optics has never been known to produce nice & smooth beams. That is the reason why many modders prefer to work with reflectors instead, and driving the LED harder to emit more light & throw. I believe in the case of Surefire, they realized that in order for them to push the LED beyond it's suggested operating brightness, up to 200 lumens in this case without overloading the LED module is to incorporate the TIR optics into the LX2. Having said that, it is a matter of personal preference on whether one would mind the slightly ringy beam as a trade-off for longer lifespan of the LED module. IMHO, I think it is a good trade-off considering that the TIR optics are the best to date I have seen in any lights utilizing an optic. If one prefers better flood, then I think one is better off with the A2L Aviator or the yet to be launched AZ2, but with a conservative 120 lumens only. Note that it has never been in Surefire's policy to overdrive their lights, but rather choosing to strike a balance between output, long runtimes, and operating lifespan.
Surefire LX2 (Part 3)
- Thread starter KDOG3
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I see. I get what you mean. Generally, optics has never been known to produce nice & smooth beams. That is the reason why many modders prefer to work with reflectors instead, and driving the LED harder to emit more light & throw. I believe in the case of Surefire, they realized that in order for them to push the LED beyond it's suggested operating brightness, up to 200 lumens in this case without overloading the LED module is to incorporate the TIR optics into the LX2. Having said that, it is a matter of personal preference on whether one would mind the slightly ringy beam as a trade-off for longer lifespan of the LED module. IMHO, I think it is a good trade-off considering that the TIR optics are the best to date I have seen in any lights utilizing an optic. If one prefers better flood, then I think one is better off with the A2L Aviator or the yet to be launched AZ2, but with a conservative 120 lumens only. Note that it has never been in Surefire's policy to overdrive their lights, but rather choosing to strike a balance between output, long runtimes, and operating lifespan.
Numbers
Enlightened
I am thinking about the A2L.
But I dont want to be "unthrilled" again like I am with the LX2.
It costs even more, and if it is not perfect, I should pass.
The A2L thread here died pretty quickly so I am not sure it is worth it's cost - there are not enough raves.
I have stayed with SF over the years, because back then they were IT, and because I cant be bothered researching other brands. I still dont want to be bothered but.... ugh, I dont know.
But I dont want to be "unthrilled" again like I am with the LX2.
It costs even more, and if it is not perfect, I should pass.
The A2L thread here died pretty quickly so I am not sure it is worth it's cost - there are not enough raves.
I have stayed with SF over the years, because back then they were IT, and because I cant be bothered researching other brands. I still dont want to be bothered but.... ugh, I dont know.
DimeRazorback
Flashlight Enthusiast
There aren't many raves as I am pretty much the only member to own one.
There is nothing wrong with the A2L, and it is very hard to define perfect unless you create something yourself for yourself.
There is nothing wrong with the A2L, and it is very hard to define perfect unless you create something yourself for yourself.
zven
Enlightened
Whether or not the A2L is worth the cost, or will thrill you depends on what you're expecting in a light. From your previous posts, I've kind of gathered why you were "unthrilled" with the LX2, but I'm not sure what your original expectations were, so I can't speculate how you'd like the A2L.
The A2L is definitely a good light, though the way it's been executed, it seems like kind of a niche product. It produces a wonderfully floody beam, on both low and high (probably floodier on high, and not just because of the added brightness; go figure). Both the high and low beams are also a lot cleaner and smoother than that of the LX2. In fact, I'd describe the low white A2L as having a very similar beam to the LX2 on low with the F04. And on high, the A2L has a beam very reminiscent of SF's P60L, but with wider/more flood, and less punch in the spot. Also, the tint on the A2L seems cool (as I expected from SF for a light with an SSC P4), but not as cool as the P60L, and definitely not as bad as the T1A. As for the physical feel of the light, it's pretty much identical to the LX2 - weight, shape, clip position, etc. Oh, and in terms of actual output, the A2L's low (white version) is similar to the LX2 (maybe a little lower), but the high is significantly dimmer than the high of the LX2 (i.e., it's not a severely underrated 120, like the E2DL tends to be). Very respectable brightness, sure, but not quite in the LX2's league.
So, if you're looking for a good flood light, you may find it in the A2L. It would be great for indoor or closeup use, certainly MUCH more so than the LX2. Its throw, however, comes across as, frankly, pathetic in direct comparison to the LX2. But if you're looking for flood, and perhaps the option of a different color on low, the A2L could be great. In fact, my take on this light is that it's a 2-stage version of the L4, with the option of colored low output.
wfish
Newly Enlightened
After years of products from Fenix, Jetbeam, Nitecore, etc I finally took the plunge and bought my first surefire. The lx2 is the first light from surefire that I felt offered enough features relative to the chinese competition to warrant the price.
So far I'm really impressed with the light, particularly its output relative to its size. However, when I go to High mode, I often hear a buzzing sound. Is this normal or does anybody else with a lx2 experience this? Thanks
So far I'm really impressed with the light, particularly its output relative to its size. However, when I go to High mode, I often hear a buzzing sound. Is this normal or does anybody else with a lx2 experience this? Thanks
Numbers
Enlightened
This is killing me. The L4 was one of my favorite lights, I lost it. If the A2L had output closer to the LX2 it would buy it now. But you know what, even at 120lm, I guess I will have to give it a try. I just want to be impressed by SF again.
Thanks for your input, I appreciate it.
Numbers
Enlightened
The buzzing is normal, I have it too.
wfish,
I too get the buzzing sound on high mode but it is not immediately audible unless I place the light next to my ear.
Numbers,
If you have the budget for it, I would urge you to seriously consider the A2L, if you still want a Surefire that is. Having owned a few LED lights that uses reflectors, I could roughly visualize the beam profile of the A2L already. I would say go for it, unless you are on a budget.
As for me, even though I prefer foody beams myself, I am able to accept the LX2's slightly ringy and less floody beam profile. I may not go for the A2L but rather the AZ2 if ever it is launched.
I too get the buzzing sound on high mode but it is not immediately audible unless I place the light next to my ear.
Numbers,
If you have the budget for it, I would urge you to seriously consider the A2L, if you still want a Surefire that is. Having owned a few LED lights that uses reflectors, I could roughly visualize the beam profile of the A2L already. I would say go for it, unless you are on a budget.
As for me, even though I prefer foody beams myself, I am able to accept the LX2's slightly ringy and less floody beam profile. I may not go for the A2L but rather the AZ2 if ever it is launched.
I have to respectfully disagree - I think that the LX2 is great for indoor use - on low, I've found more than enough light bounces from the walls even in big rooms and long hallways. Add an F04 and its perfection. On high, pointed at the ceiling and its a friggin torch (I did add a delrin tail for candle-standing...).
From my perspective, I was really psyched about the A2L as I loved my incan A2 but, I'm not going to buy it. One of the biggest reasons is the runtime on low and high level output are just too sub par for me...
Overall, I have been very pleased with my LX2 - I for one love the TIR optic, the outputs/runtimes, and its easy enough to add an F04, F05 or 06 😀 I really like having the spot of the LX2's TIR when I need it but the flexibility of turning it into a flood. I should also note that the splotchy beam patterns of the TIRs just dont bother me and I really dont see what the fuss is about :shrug: :nana: - they are never even noticed in my real world use.
Between my LX2, Ra 140-T and M60WL, I dont use any of my other lights and have sold most of them off... However, I keep meaning to ask Gene for an M60WLL :naughty:
All in all, I think the LX2 was a homerun, for me at least.
Lightingguy321
Enlightened
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2006
- Messages
- 654
KDOG,
I just noticed something, you have an "x" serial number light, and I have an "a" serial number light. I wonder if they change the letter every batch now or if they sent you an experimental one.
I just noticed something, you have an "x" serial number light, and I have an "a" serial number light. I wonder if they change the letter every batch now or if they sent you an experimental one.
DimeRazorback
Flashlight Enthusiast
zven
Enlightened
Regarding use of the LX2 (or any other light with the same optic, for that matter) indoors, I'd say it's really a matter of how you use it. The beam definitely puts most of its output into the hotspot, and not much into the spill, which can be either advantageous or not, depending on your task at hand.
For instance, on occasions when I want to get just generally see the state of a room, what's in it, and so forth, the optic+F04 is perfect, as it lights up everything at once, and you don't have to "search around" with the beam. For this purpose, I find the optic alone to be unsatisfactory, as the hotspot is too overpowering relative to the spill, and the spill is to narrow to just see everything at once.
However, if I'm looking for a specific object in a dark room, those optics with the F04 just don't provide the right amount of light - sure it's a good brightness, but with everything in the room lit the same, whatever I'm looking for tends not to "pop out" at me in my search. This is where having a brighter hotspot comes in handy.
But that may just be me - I'd be curious what tasks others tend to use their LX2 for indoors, and when they find a diffused beam or non-diffused beam appropriate.
rhpdchief
Newly Enlightened
Has anybody done any runtime or output testing with the LX2 head on a one cell body powered by an rcr. Mine doesn't work at all on a primary but seems quite bright on an AW protected 3.7 volt cell. Using an e1e body it only has one level of output but it does work. Just wondering about the possibilities of using an LX1 body and saving a little money over buying 2 lights. Also wondering if it would be brighter than the 80 lumen high being reported in the LX1 thread. If those are the correct specs for the LX1 I'm not sure I'll be buying one but I would be interested in a one cell body that fits between an LX2 head and tailcap.
I just ran it for 10 minutes. I can't say how much, if any, the output decreased but the ending voltage was 3.97. Unfortunately I didn't measure the starting voltage on the cell but it was roughly 4.15.
I just ran it for 10 minutes. I can't say how much, if any, the output decreased but the ending voltage was 3.97. Unfortunately I didn't measure the starting voltage on the cell but it was roughly 4.15.
Vesper
Enlightened
Removing the Lanyard Ring and O-Ring Madness
The LX2 lanyard ring was driving me crazy and though there's a few posts on how to do it, removing it still felt like a shot-in-the-dark. Here's a pic to show what you're dealing with. To remove it, just gently pry at the spot shown in the photo. The thing will easily pop off (a little too easily for my tastes).
This works better for me anyway...
Also, I've added an o-ring to the shaft of the light in the notch just under the clip. Not only does it create a kind of tactical ring to hold on to (it really helps offset the non-gnurled surface), but as you can see in the photo, it picks the clip up off the tail cap a bit (I carry bezel down so it doesn't interfere with the function of the clip for me). The ring was smaller and a bear to get on, but once on is solid as a rock - no budging at all. I really love using this light...
:thumbsup:
The LX2 lanyard ring was driving me crazy and though there's a few posts on how to do it, removing it still felt like a shot-in-the-dark. Here's a pic to show what you're dealing with. To remove it, just gently pry at the spot shown in the photo. The thing will easily pop off (a little too easily for my tastes).
This works better for me anyway...
Also, I've added an o-ring to the shaft of the light in the notch just under the clip. Not only does it create a kind of tactical ring to hold on to (it really helps offset the non-gnurled surface), but as you can see in the photo, it picks the clip up off the tail cap a bit (I carry bezel down so it doesn't interfere with the function of the clip for me). The ring was smaller and a bear to get on, but once on is solid as a rock - no budging at all. I really love using this light...
:thumbsup:
sprinkle
Newly Enlightened
Thank you very much Vesper for those pictures! I have one coming in the mail and was curious to how the ring came off. This was not what I had imagined and helps a lot!
Vesper
The reason for the "pop off" O ring is so if you have the light around your neck, and someone grabs it, it will "pop off" so they cannot choke you out, or worse kill you.
For the lights that have steel attachment rings their laynards are made the same way, ie they fail, BEFORE you do.
The same reason no plainclothed Police Officer/Federal Agent, should EVER wear a "real" tie.
The reason for the "pop off" O ring is so if you have the light around your neck, and someone grabs it, it will "pop off" so they cannot choke you out, or worse kill you.
For the lights that have steel attachment rings their laynards are made the same way, ie they fail, BEFORE you do.
The same reason no plainclothed Police Officer/Federal Agent, should EVER wear a "real" tie.
Numbers
Enlightened
I am not so sure it would pop off. SF says it must be destroyed or cut to get it off.
Obviously not true, just pry up on the half of the ring without the lanyard attachment loop.
The O ring to keep the clip off of the tail switch is a great idea.
Obviously not true, just pry up on the half of the ring without the lanyard attachment loop.
The O ring to keep the clip off of the tail switch is a great idea.
iapyx
Enlightened
Who can help me finding this eBay dealer where many of you have bought the LX2 from? I cannot find them on eBay.
I don't know if I am allowed to mention the dealer's name here, but I think most know who I am talking about.
I don't know if I am allowed to mention the dealer's name here, but I think most know who I am talking about.
DimeRazorback
Flashlight Enthusiast
They currently have no surefires listed as they are updating their dealership license or something along those lines :thumbsup:
