Surefire Titan T1A Pics & Info

ganymede

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Stainz,

Nice group shot of your year end haul!

I didn't get the T1A because of my limited budget, I sure hope I won't kick myself later for this decision.
 

Vox Clamatis in Deserto

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The info pamphlet included is correct, brightness and time-wise, except for the mentioned <25% 5 minute autoshutoff - mine stays on. White and centered beam, too...

Stainz

Edited to add: To get the 5min cut-off to work, you must go to a level <25% - not over and then back! Oops - it tells you that. Mine works. When all else fails, read the instructions. My fault!

Hmmm, a while back I posted about my earlier frustration with the autoshutoff on my original T1A. It seemed to sometimes work, sometimes not. Hopefully, you have broken the code on this one. When I need that ultra low setting to preserve night vision when doing star shots with a DSLR, I like to have the light stay on so I can double check manual focus and fiddle with other settings while trying not to topple the tripod. If you bump something on the camera in the dark you can waste a lot of shots before you realize it. Don't ask me how I know. :oops:

Earlier, from inspiration here on CPF, I successfully modded an SSC P4 Surefire U2 with an XP-G. Since my new T1A has an off center SSC P4 LED, I might just try to mod it as well if I can find some guidance on disassembly.

Or perhaps not, I look at the T1A as mostly a low level light. For $99 kind of a poor man's HDS Rotary.
 

Vox Clamatis in Deserto

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Last edited:

Stainz

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Kestrel,

Yep - just turn to over 25% - make it 50% to be safe - then back down to <25%. You are then in 'Auto-shutoff Mode 2', where it goes off when the battery dies (... or you turn it off!).

Stainz
 

Stainz

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VCiD,

Star pix on a DSLR? You need an A2 LED (Red) Aviator! I got mine locally <$100 on closeout 2 yr ago. Check around for old stock.

Stainz
 

Vox Clamatis in Deserto

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VCiD,

Star pix on a DSLR? You need an A2 LED (Red) Aviator! I got mine locally <$100 on closeout 2 yr ago. Check around for old stock.

Stainz
Thanks for the suggestion. :thumbsup:

Actually, I've got red, green and blue A2L's and a Kroma Milspec. But the low levels on the T1A and HDS Rotary are even dimmer to my eye and help keep night vision on a dark moonless night. The yellow-green on the Kroma seems to give me the best acuity in dim light. Whether red is best for night vision has been debated here for years and elsewhere for decades. Half a century ago many airline and military cockpits had red lighting, now I don't see it much on more modern flight decks.

Recent DSLR's can image stars and the Milky Way with an exposure of a few seconds with good results with a wide angle lens. Earlier you had to track the stars with an equatorial mount or get star trails with a long exposure.

That T1A emitter swap has really got me thinking. The heat sink looks similar to the one that holds the SSC P4 in the SF U2 and I was able to cut the XP-G board with a Dremel tool and make it work.

Then again, for low light, efficiency is not much of a concern and I've got a hundred aging CR123A's from free battery deals before SF allowed actual discounting and I switched to RCR's for most lights. :thinking:
 

Sean

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I updated my original post (#1). I received the 90 lumen version from Botach via ebay. It's brighter than 90 lumens, more like 125+ according to my measurements. And the tint is better than the original one I had as well. Not bad for $90! I also did a runtime test at max output:

Run time test 90 lumen version on high ~1 hour & 50 minutes to 50% (Surefire SF123A exp: 2018):
(hours):(minutes)-(estimated lumens)
00:00-126 lumens (estimated)
01:00-124
01:10-124
01:15-124
01:20-124
01:25-120
01:30-117
01:33-110
01:35-105
01:40-92
01:45-80
01:50-66 (~50% output @ 110 minutes)
01:55-54
01:56-ended test



yua1.jpg


7bqd.jpg

7r1n.jpg



df3i.jpg

Jetbeam RRT01 on the left and the Titan T1A 90 lumen version on the right.
 
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kj2

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The one and only SF dealer here, has still a few left and sells them now for €50 (about $50). Not bad, but I would rather pick a brand-new Sidekick or Titan alu or Titan Plus.
 

AVService

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The one and only SF dealer here, has still a few left and sells them now for €50 (about $50). Not bad, but I would rather pick a brand-new Sidekick or Titan alu or Titan Plus.


Not me,I think the T1A is still my most used light all the time.
I use them over night as they are the lowest output light that I have that is usable and thus I never have to change batteries in mine,well OK once in 3 years from overnight use.

After the Titan my HDS on the lowest setting look like the Sun almost?
 

kj2

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Re: Surefire Titan T1A Review Pics & Info *Update* 90 lumen version

Saw that one missing ;)
I like old school SF lights, but like newer ones more[emoji14]
 

WarriorOfLight

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I like old school SF lights, but like newer ones more[emoji14]
The T1A is Special. It is my 2nd T1A. :) Btw. I'm also fan of the old School SF lights. and I have a lot older ones, but I also have a lot newer ones. I like the Furys with the new knurled Body design. The last Surefile I bought was a P3X with Intellibeam :D

Warrior, I didn't see any there. Did you score the last one.
Yes it seems the T1A I grabbed was the last one. I ordered my T1A 15th January and received the light last friday.

The AZ2 / AZ2-S is also interesting, but I own a AZ2, and I think one is enough....
 

cy

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Dec 20, 2003
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USA
here's a pic of titan next to Li14430 for size comparison
original titan had a unreliable magnetic lanyard attachment.

titan lanyard2.JPG


titan lanyard.JPG


Li14430 still lives .. but my Surefire Titan orginal titanium model has died and Surefire has no parts to fix .. bummmmmer ..
 

nbp

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Re: Surefire Titan T1A Review Pics & Info *Update* 90 lumen version

Oh no! Can someone here fix it? I think DaFabricata modded a few but I don't recall how extensively.

Seems odd they would run out of parts considering only like 500 were made. How many came back for repairs I wonder?
 
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