Switch Question / Problem Revealed (w/ photos)

wmpwi

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Sorry for having to repeat myself like this, but the question needs more expertise than was coming on the other thread http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1858577#post1858577.

And now on to another observation. While trying to do the preceding beam shots, the light went out. I did what most normal people would do. I gave it a few whacks - which didn't help. So pressing the button a bunch seem to give an intermittent success, like 1 time out of 10, but not at full power. When the LED would come on, it was at low power only or at least greatly reduced and then it would wink out after a 1/2 second.

I ruled out a loose battery and moved on the the switch looking for something loose. It has some type of 2 stage switch, but I know little about this stuff so I just take everything apart and see where it leads me. The photo below was the only thing I noticed, and while it looks a bit sloppy, I would think it should work. I did what I could to clean up the soldering job, but I've kind of lost confidence in it and now waiting to see it fail again. Could that have been the problem? I don't know how this particular resistor is supposed to affect the power to the light.

switch.jpg


R2.jpg


Any thoughts?
 
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Lighthouse one

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Re: Switch Question

Switches are one of the most liable to break items on a light. I got 2 lights from a company, and within a week both lights went bad from a shorted switch. This was a two stage switch- which is more prone than a simple on/off switch. Good luck! ( I hot wired my second light- now when I put the tailcap on- I got light!)
 

VidPro

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Re: Switch Question

had the same thing happen, i had gotten the switch a bit to hot, via soldering on the leggs.
if you have the thing mostly apart, unglued, then change it now.

the switches have spring (like) things in them, and even after i overheated it, clicking it on and off many times, caused the contact to get cleaner, and whatever was blocking or stopping the CONTACTs of the switch from making full and complete contact, eventually went away MOSTLY.
the overheated switch works now 98 times out of 100, and the more its switched the more it works, but if i had not potted (glued) the whole contraption together, i would have prefered to toss the switch.

the low power to the led could be that the switch contacts are not making GOOD contact, like few molecules are actually touching, the resistance and heat from the poor contact eventually increases and the current through the switch stops flowing. mabey the few molecules that are actually making contact are oxidised or something? i donno, but continual click of the switch, especially when there is NO power running through it will cause the metal to metal contact to get larger, as the spring loaded contacts crash into each other.
 
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VidPro

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Re: Switch Question

the resister looks like mabey its part of the 2 staging of the light, and adds resistance to do the lower power mode.
it is soldered poorly, about how I would solder a tiny arse part like that :) but if its connected and not bridged, then its working.
you could use an OHM meter from the board, to the edge of the part, to see if its not connected proper. AND an OHM meter put on each end of the part to see if the part is not bridged, shorted, or not providing resistance. because the occurance is intermittant, it would be hard to tell.

with a optical viewer (like a 30X pocket scope or a Loupe) you could observe if that contact point is or is not connected.
or you could just take a wack at re-soldering it, you need a good point on the solder gun, and solder wick, to attempt that.

it is NOT likly that the soldering at the resistor is the problem IF the switch on/off keeps making it better.

it IS likly that a solder job like that is bad IF pushing on it changes things, or if it just stopped altogether. or if bashing it makes it flick on.
 
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VidPro

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Re: Switch Question

after having read the other thread:
you indicate that when the battery is LOW, it does this flickering.

that could be JUST because the curcuit is at the end of its operational voltage.
or
it could be because the battery is bad, as a bad battery will internally disconnect when the draw is higher.
or
the draw on the battery is to high in general, or a short somewhere exists, and a protection curcuit is kicking in. the 1800ma you talk about is close to the 2A max on a cheap protection curcuit, any "startup" juice extra needed would push it over.
or
somewhere between the battery and the curcuit or switch, there is a bad connection, that gets worse as the current goes up.

if you have one of them curcuits that is fully regulated, it draws more "AMPS" as the voltage of tha battery decreases, it is the current or amps that will cause more heat, on a bad contact, than the volts.
meaning if the amp draw has increased, and the voltage decreased, a poor connection will then be effected. also protection curcuits (and pcts) are based on the amps, not the total watts, or a voltage.

was the battery protected? if so, what is the max amps that can be drawn from the battery before the protection kicks in.
 
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wmpwi

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Re: Switch Question (problem w/ picts)

I must have mis-spoke if it sounded like I said the battery was low. It was fine. What I intended to say was that the light seemed on low mode) rather than high. BTW: Off - click on high - click on low - click off. Reverse from what I normal would expect. And I think you were correct in your 1st post. So I opened it up and I think I see your point as well as the problem.

Pic w/ the top off
switch0.jpg


Lots of lube down there
switch1.jpg


The guts look a lot like a cheap ball point pen
switch11.jpg


The problem was a bad connection to the circuit board
switch2.jpg


Real close
switch3.jpg


I think you were right about the quality of the switch. Now I just need to find a new one. Thanks.
 

VidPro

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all the switches of the small size in plastic are not great.
looks like the leg broke loose.
if you can put the switch back, you could scrape the green stuff off the foil on the board, and re-solder that connection. then if you could solder the backside to "rivet" the leg from moving.

when the leg pulled up it probably tore the curcuit boards foil connection point there OFF the board, that is why you will have to scrape a new place to connect to the foil. the foil under that leg is likly still stuck ON the leg, and the solder there.

frilling amazing pics there :)
 
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VidPro

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'barrel' in the thru-hole

ahhhh, THATS what that is, i couldnt figure out what the copper color was. so it basically was "riveted".
 

wmpwi

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Deal Extream followed up on their promise and sent me a new light to replace the one that was defective. No problmes with the replacement. I'm sure the New Years holidays slowed up some timelines, but they delivered on their end. Great Job DX and Thanks!!! :thumbsup:
 

Lightfantastic

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It's available thru Digikey, page 1679, under Judco. A 12mm square tact switch. They are incredibly weak. The Ultrafire 602 series and the Huntlight use it. I would LOVE to find a replacement with a standard clicky. The McClicky can be grafted in, but it's a kludge. That little spring carries all the current. Even a little, tiny short, and it gets too hot to be a spring anymore.
 
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