Luff
Enlightened
I bought a Ray-O-Vac 2AA swivel-head plastic flashlight some time back and did a Luxeon Star w/ optics mod on it. This has since become my most used mod because of its size and flexibility. My 4AAA double-barrel mod is prettier and more durable, but I keep finding myself grabbing this one for general use.
For those of you with the modding bug, it's a worthwhile project. The light clips to a ball cap or other spots like a shirt or jacket, so you can work hands free. It stands on its bottom and makes a decent task light. It won't roll off on a surface if laid on it's side. The flashlight is realitively inexpensive (less than $10 ... I don't remember the exact amount) and is available in hardware & discount stores.
Although not a difficult mod, it does require either a fair amount of filing or access to a Dremel tool.
First step is to remove the bulb. Easy to do as it's a bi-pin design, although the glass is slippery and hard to hold onto. I stuck a small piece of rubber tubing over it and that solved the gripping problem without resorting to pliers.
I used the National LM2621 DC/DC converter adjusted to provide 3.1 volts to pump up the 2AA batts. The 2621 PCB has to be cut down just about as small as you can take it without removing any circuit traces. The ZLT+ or some of the other DC/DC PCB's noted on CPF would probably be better choices, but I still haven't built any.
The LS heat sink must be trimmed on two sides flush with the black plastic collimator retaining collar, and the corners have to be rounded as well.
I then mounted the LM2621 to the LS aluminum heat sink with a thin (1/16th inch) layer of rubber between them to help isolate any heat the LS generates from the LM2621. "GOO" All Purpose Adhesive™" worked great to make it all stick together and then, after wiring the LM2621 to the LS and attaching leads for power, I potted the converter to protect it from any moisture or rough handling.
Inside the flashlight's spherical head, the housing that held the lamp assembly must be cut down so the LS and converter will fit. Also, inside the head there are two plastic hinges that allow the flashlight head to tilt. Both hinge posts protrude into the cavity and must be shortened so the new LS assembly will fit between them. The shortening isn't difficult, but needs some care so you don't shorten them too much.
The reflector comes apart from the screw-on collar with some difficulty. With enough rocking back and both ... pulling and twisting ... the three mods I've done each just popped apart. As with most LS mods, cut out the reflector's base just enough to get the LS barrel through.
Once I determined which were the positive and negative leads in the bottom of the flashlight, I soldered the converter's power leads to them. Then, with some nudging and minor fitting, it all went back together.
Granted, the finished product is a little on the gaudy side.
The 3M Scotchlite film makes it easy to find from reflected light out camping. The Nichia blue-green glow powder paint makes it's easy to find in the middle of the night when nature calls. The reflector is also covered with glow paint so no matter the flashlight's orientation, I can always see some glow.
It's a handy, pocketable, flexible flashlight. I get about 2 hours of very bright light, a couple more of moderate light, and I don't know how many of dim light as I generally replace the batteries after a two or three more hours. By then, the batteries are approaching 1 volt each and I'm usually needing a brighter light.
For those of you with the modding bug, it's a worthwhile project. The light clips to a ball cap or other spots like a shirt or jacket, so you can work hands free. It stands on its bottom and makes a decent task light. It won't roll off on a surface if laid on it's side. The flashlight is realitively inexpensive (less than $10 ... I don't remember the exact amount) and is available in hardware & discount stores.
Although not a difficult mod, it does require either a fair amount of filing or access to a Dremel tool.
First step is to remove the bulb. Easy to do as it's a bi-pin design, although the glass is slippery and hard to hold onto. I stuck a small piece of rubber tubing over it and that solved the gripping problem without resorting to pliers.
I used the National LM2621 DC/DC converter adjusted to provide 3.1 volts to pump up the 2AA batts. The 2621 PCB has to be cut down just about as small as you can take it without removing any circuit traces. The ZLT+ or some of the other DC/DC PCB's noted on CPF would probably be better choices, but I still haven't built any.
The LS heat sink must be trimmed on two sides flush with the black plastic collimator retaining collar, and the corners have to be rounded as well.
I then mounted the LM2621 to the LS aluminum heat sink with a thin (1/16th inch) layer of rubber between them to help isolate any heat the LS generates from the LM2621. "GOO" All Purpose Adhesive™" worked great to make it all stick together and then, after wiring the LM2621 to the LS and attaching leads for power, I potted the converter to protect it from any moisture or rough handling.
Inside the flashlight's spherical head, the housing that held the lamp assembly must be cut down so the LS and converter will fit. Also, inside the head there are two plastic hinges that allow the flashlight head to tilt. Both hinge posts protrude into the cavity and must be shortened so the new LS assembly will fit between them. The shortening isn't difficult, but needs some care so you don't shorten them too much.
The reflector comes apart from the screw-on collar with some difficulty. With enough rocking back and both ... pulling and twisting ... the three mods I've done each just popped apart. As with most LS mods, cut out the reflector's base just enough to get the LS barrel through.
Once I determined which were the positive and negative leads in the bottom of the flashlight, I soldered the converter's power leads to them. Then, with some nudging and minor fitting, it all went back together.
Granted, the finished product is a little on the gaudy side.
It's a handy, pocketable, flexible flashlight. I get about 2 hours of very bright light, a couple more of moderate light, and I don't know how many of dim light as I generally replace the batteries after a two or three more hours. By then, the batteries are approaching 1 volt each and I'm usually needing a brighter light.
